.....I'm no mechanical genius but would like to contribute something to Tech Week. In the late 60's, I was helping a buddy rebuild a Ford three speed trans. Got to the part where you had to put needle bearings in the race and slip it on a shaft. Tried this a few times and the damn things kept falling out. (Now I KNOW that most everyone already knows this, but I thought it was a stroke of genius) his Dad told us to put a little wheel bearing grease in the race, stick the needle bearings in the grease and they weren't going anywhere! DUH! Worked like a charm. Sorry it's weak, but it's something.........
There are a lot of young guys that haven't heard the basic stuff. Heres another simple one...If you tack weld a temporary brace or a stiffener across a frame or door opening, tack it on the same side of the brace on each end. When it comes time to remove it, you can roll it with a pair of Channel locks or a pipe wrench toward the side with the tacks and it pops right off. You won't need a torch to remove it and risk more damage. The remaining tack weld can be ground down easily leaving no trace.
Another simple one......Light coat of vaseline when setting a gasket....cheap and effective.... ...and the old mahogany handle for a stethoscope....
OK, I got a simple one. When I reprimed my '34 last spring,I couldn't figure and easy way to mask the small stuff like the door handles or outside headers until a buddy of mine suggested aluminum foil. It molds to any shape, is cheap and recyclable.
actully, for a stethoscope, I've always used a cheap tire iron.(factory GM) put the pry end on the motor and the socket end to your ear... works great!
On that note another possibilty.....when spraying around windows....there is a product called Gl*** Wax (found in any hardware store)....place on a rag and coat all the windows, allow to set and fog over - DO NOT REMOVE. Make sure you have it to all edges.....then paint. Afterwards, simply wipe off...any over spray will come off with it....
[ QUOTE ] Another simple one......Light coat of vaseline when setting a gasket... [/ QUOTE ] I don't know about the vaseline, But I use a very lite coat of grease on paper gaskets, just enough to change the color. I usually wipe them off as well. But it'll be enough to not only help it seal but to keep them from sticking when you take it apart. Works great on Carbs....
Here's one that works most times for phillips head screws and probably the slot head ones as well. Got it from the aircraft mechanic at the Beechcraft place I used to work at. Insert phillips head screwdriver, give it a sharp rap with a plastic hammer or small ball peen while applying a turning force to it. That usually starts the screw and you can unscrew it by hand. The big caveat with this method is to be aware of how the screw proper is supported - in other words don't be swatting something that could cave in or dent. If this fails, there's always the impact screwdriver found at Sears and motorcycle shops, but it's best to start off with a reasonable amount of force.
Hot Rod To Hell, I think you may have actualy found a use for one of the most worthless tools made, I only save them for when I need a chunk of round stock. Simple Post: For removing mag lug nuts, use a breaker bar with a 1/2" drive sparkplug socket (they are deep-well and thin wall) to break then switch to speed wrench. For mounting use the speed wrench with the sparkplug socket then switch to your torque wrench. Do Not Use The Plug Socket With Your Impact Wrench. I use a little antisieze both on the threads, so I can get them off later, and on the outside of the socket to keep it from binding on the aluminum wheel. Paul
For those that don't know this.......place a dab of valve lapping compond on a phillips tip screw driver or inpact driver to get that "extra grip" needed to remove those beat up phillips screws. Works great on new but very tight screws also!....been doing this on old Harleys for years. CT.
Simple way to remove a stud that has bust off flush, or near flush. Drop a nut (of the same size thread) over the bust end, dead in line, and put a big hot weld in it with your arc welder. Grab a wrench and screw that puppy out. The heat gives it a bit of a loosener too
Another rerun for the young guys...Cherry flavor chap stick works great to mask off the edges of the fins on aluminum V/covers to be painted. The tube makes it easy to apply and the red color of the cherry flavor makes it easier to see where you've been.
While we are talking Chap-stick, use it on Holley float bowl gaskets. This is a great trick for preserving the gaskets if you do alot of jet changes, ie: drag racers, roundy rounders etc. Just coat both sides and the gasket is re-usable.
one of the best ways to remove a stubborn screw is using a speed handle, unknown to be used by many,LOL. with a bit in the end to hold whatever screw you want to remove, Phillips or flat tip, the nature of the handle plus a good amt of body lean will unscrew most anything, sometime tighten a little before trying to unscrew it usually breakes it loose,I learned this in the Air Force, when we had to remove and reinstall a million access panels.
[ QUOTE ] one of the best ways to remove a stubborn screw is sometime tighten a little before trying to unscrew it usually breakes it loose [/ QUOTE ] I can attest to the idea of tightening a screw slightly before trying to remove it.Usually breaks the seal and makes it very easy to remove. When I was in the Navy,we used to have a REALLY BIG problem with electrolysis(corrosion forming between two dissimilar metals)in our outboard drop tanks on F-4's.The salt water atmosphere would corrode the aluminum around the locking hook and freeze it solid.The same problem with screws holding access panels on(especially minimum access panels).Our solution was to coat the locking hooks with a liberal amount of WD-40(the original was made by Rocket Chemical Co.and this stuff worked wonders on aluminum).We would also use it on screws(it would usually "wick in"and break the corrosion)and using a speeder turn it a little clockwise and then back them out.Nice tool when you're taking 60 odd screws out of a centerline bomb rack cover.
A simple,long,flat or phillips screwdriver,with the handle placed next to you ear, also makse a good stethoscope in an pinch.
If you have ever locked yourself out of your car with shaved handles, or any other car with flip-open vent windows, a clip off the master cylinder lid on a Chevy half ton can easily slip under the rubber, and has the right curve to flip the handle over and open the vent. This will not damage the rubber and will even work on newer trucks and vans with the push ****on vent handles.
Another simple easy usful trick with small screws or bolts that are rusted and difficult to remove...I use a a 12 volt battery and jumper cables to heat the screw and it just turns right out...hook cables to battery then positive to screw/bolt head ... ground to somthing close to screw/bolt only takes a couple seconds till scew/bolt turns red hot and screws right out have done this many times with much success....fatchuk
[ QUOTE ] Another lockout tool for vent windows, ***uming your hood doesn't lock... oil dipstick! [/ QUOTE ] Wouldn't work on mine, they crank open, SOL I guess hehehhe
So something is draining your battery when it sits for a while. To find the culpret...disconnect the positive battery cable. With the key off and nothing turned on, connect a test light between the cable end and the battery post. With the door shut... (dome light duh or pop the bulb out), the test light should be off. If the test light is on, pull 1 fuse at a time until the light goes out. When the light goes out, BINGO that's the circuit with the draw. Now you know where to look. Some guys use a door ajar buzzer in place of the test light so that they can hear which circuit it is. It doesn't happen that often but it may help you locate the problem if it does.
With a real gummed up rusted screw or bolt, when you finally get it moving don't just try and crank it all the way out. Turn it a quarter turn out, then 1/8 back in, then a quarter turn out, 1/8 back in and so forth. This acts like when you're tapping a hole and stops all the **** getting jammed and galling even further in the hole. Squirt plenty of wd40 or similar lube on, to wash away all the rust and ****, as you are doing it.
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