Great thread but I just skimming through because of time. A couple of years ago I did a lot of research on autobodystore.com Good forum for painters and they sold quality tools at a discount. I bought my Iwata gun from them. You may want to check it out for more info. Check out their Hobbyair breathing system. Not a bad way to keep from getting sick.
Hey Scoot & Irish, The " Chi-Comms." at " Horribly-Fucked '' were sellin a combo spray gun kit with two guns in it, one with a 1.4 tip. Jus' remember, you arn't getting a spray gun for $40-$60 bucks, you're gettin $40-$60 bucks worth of spray gun! Other than a base colour in " Tree-Hugger Kool-Aid " I can't think of what a 1.0 tip would be good for, especially if you're talkin' shooting an acrylic enamel, epoxy or thick clear coat! That would be about like tryin' to push an old Buick through the eye of a needle! Small spray tips and fluid needles plus cheap HVLP (perfume-duster) spray guns, that don't do a good job of inter-mixing air and properly thinned paint material spell a recipe for failure! Expect a dry spray pattern, and one that has poor colour coat coverage from a cheap or under sized tip and fluid needle. Over thinning the paint material to compensate for this shortcomming isn't the hot either because now you've killed the proper mixture of thinner/catylist to colour mixture- 'bout like bein' tounge kissed by your motherinlaw - ........don't go there! Here are some "very general" guidelines for tip selection of HVLF guns & material: 1.8 tip-primer material 1.3-1.4 tip- for basecoats & clear coats 2.0-2.2 tip- for high build primers, metalflakes etc. " Do you know O'Toole's theory? O'Tool stated that Murphy was an optimist! "
ok here's my take....for what it's worth (very little ). if you going to use urethane or enamels i would go with a 1.2-1.4 tip. if your going with urethane you might be able to get away with a cheap gun (a la harbor freight) because it flows out, if your going to use it for enamel expect color sanding. that said i have used harbor freight guns (1.2-1.3 tips) for a few years the green colored one was good, the purple colored one is a pain (there was a website trying to make it work ok with adjustments). i've been using a kit (2 guns) from devilbiss (finishline 3, cheap overseas made) with a 1.3 tip, which is slightly better then the green h.f gun. i just borrowed a friends sharpe titanium (was like $400 about 5 years ago) with a 1.4 tip and it looks feels WAY better.....but i have yet to use it (damn rain). at least good enough for a primer gun.
I went to a couple of my local autobody supply jobbers and found some good, better, pretty decent, and best paint guns. I could not find the W-71 gravity feed, but was surprised to hear that Graco had bought Sharpe and had some nice Finex guns and a good 2 gun kit with 3 cups at a decent price ($369/on sale for $279) and pretty nice value for the money. The Chinese copy cat Satas were on sale in a 3 gun pack for $80 (ATD-6900) pretty good price for infrequent use in home shop. And of course the Sata dealer had all the new stuff (I did not photograph) and priced high end accordingly. The Warwick gun was in the middle of the Chinese and the Graco/Sharpe price. I don't have any info, but the dealer said they performed pretty well and were a much better gun than the Chinese Satas. Oh yeah, here's a cheap must have for any painter. S&G tool aid--I see the Chinese 3 gun special had a cleaning kit and pressure regulator included in the package. Of course this thread was about single stage black. The jobbers here have mostly good lines of urethane-PPG, Dupont, Nason, Sikkens, Utech, in varying price ranges. The dupont jobber does have factory pack Centari acrylic enamel, but they do not have a mixing set up any more. The Utech, Nason, and PPG Concept were probably the best bang fot the buck, as far as durability, ease of use, and performance. As always the undercoat/primer is a key factor in a good overall paint film's durability.
I have painted alot of cars over the years and really like DCC in any color. I have used Omni, whos black has a very brown tone to it, with great results. Omni clear only lasts about 5 years on a car that is not garage kept. House of Color is great, has great colors and is actually cheaper than some factory colors. I have been wanting to play with water based stuff but the only product available in my area is Auto Air colors. They are mostly custom colors. I have sprayed many different brands over many different primers and have rarely had a problem. Just make sure the primer is cured and sanded well. Here are a couple pics of stuff done in DCC.
I own a Sharp Finex and really like it, especially for the price. Sprayed with it probably a dozen times and never had a problem. Single stages and BC CC.
OK, I am just a casual observer but starting to get confused. I need help buying a gun. I have painted a lot of farm eq. with acrylic enamel and a Finishline I gun I think made in England. I also have a "good" gravity feed from HF that I have read other guys say they were reasonably happy with. I have not used it yet. Now I am ready to buy something to replace my Finishline and had planned to go Finishline III until reading this thread. Some smart and experienced guys here. I will still paint several pieces of farm eq per year with acrylic enamel but would like to paint my next rod myself. I am not afraid to buy a better gun but really don't want to break the bank for one or two cars and some tractors. Can one of the prior posters lean me in a direction?
this has gotten so so technical... your painting your frame! i hope im correct its been a while.. just grab the hvlp spray gun kit, get some black centari, or nason, reduce it throw in some hardener,paint the sumbich, throe a few pinstripes on , and mount the body!!! are we biulding the space shuttle? or a hot rod? future repairs?? after my deuce had 30k on it whan i repaired it , it got a blast of black spray bomb over a weld or two that you would never see! . it didnt matter anymore as it 30 thousand miles of road shit on it anyway.. dont meen to over simplify, but is this an ambr contender, or a nice home biult hot rod.? just paint the damn thing....
Just been sitting back and spectating and taking in information at this point. Already made my choice (you'll have to wait and see). Only painting suspension parts, but that really wasn't the point of starting the thread. I didn't want to start it for my own selfish reasons, wanted to start because I figured if I have questions then I'm sure someone else does as well. And since I didn't see much on the HAMB (till now) I figured I would just ask. This thread is great! Sure! You can "just paint the damn thing" but what do you REALLY want to buy. You can go buy anything that Bob or Billy next door tells you to get and assume they know what they're talking about or you can do some research and see what's best for whatever application. I almost chose a "chassis paint" because it seemed like the best way to go. Good thing I did my research FIRST because I would have been re-doing it before too long because it would have turned brown from UV. Point of the thread is to talk about what's out there to invest in. Frankly, I like to do things right the first time and not have to redo them because I can't afford to do it twice. A little time and some questions and I got my answers, learned a bunch, and so did a few other people.
Hope someone can help me with this what im trying to do is a flat black that will hold up to uv what PPG sent me was will eather of them come out flat black. Im really looking at the ESSS 911678 You may try ESSS 911678, a factory-pack flat black polyurethane from our Delfleet Essential fleet line, or you may choose Deltrons DCC9300 Acrylic Urethane flattened with SU4985 Matting agent. The first option would be pre-flattened, whereas the second would have to be flattened before application.
wow that sucks bad. I just bought some dcc for a truck Im painting here in pa. I also have used Limco direct-to-metal. It is a single stage urethane. Its affordable, awesome UV resistance and durable and sprays like ppg.Its a industrial finish but Ive had very good luck with it but I dont know if its avalable in cali.
Highlander, Im very interested in the 25% clear in the last few coats. What clear would mix in with Omni to give it more UV. Im considering using Omni -no metallic - on shop truck just to get a coat of paint on it, would like to up the UV. Ive seen it discussed before but dont know the clear to use of mix ratio, can someone give an example. Guns, just bought a Finishline combo set, havent had a chance to use them, I have an older Finishline that Im very happy with over the years. http://www.tcpglobal.com/spraygundepot/devmstrkit.aspx Shop plenty of paint with Harbor freight guns - tractor enamel on steel entry doors, shop equipment, suspension/ frames. even shot porcelain on an antique bathtub. They are decent for non critical work where you want better than rattle can. you get what you pay for Also interested in any feedback on tcpglobal paint.
Stay away from omni. Call around outside of la county. You might be able to buy it In antelope valley somewhere. Good look.
Not to be rude, but I'm not hip to doing something like that with Omni of any kind. I mentioned that specifically to the HOK line of products, or truely, any premium line of single stage or direct gloss colors. I tried Omni on a snowmobile hood a long time ago. I hated it. I hated how it "handled", the flash times, gloss index, just a blah cheapo product. I ended up refinishing it after 2 seasons, and this is a rig that sat in a shop or garage for 9 months out of the year...and covered! Coulda been the fact that it was a RIM substrate, but it still sucked. Step up to Shopline. It may be a better version of the old Omni line in all reality, but I'll put Shopline on a concours chassis and never lose a minute of sleep over it. I might not use it on the body panels only because I wouldn't risk longevity on a 6 figure restoration. As far as mixing clears, they have to be FULLY COMPATIBLE WITH EACH OTHER. HOK UBC (?) black is the same base as a few of their clears so they mix. PPG DCC color and perhaps 2021 clear would mix. They use the same catalyst. That's your answer to boosting the finish with clear, same catalyst/sub base. TPC Global is a PPG line of products. It's a direct marketing group that has many formulas and color charts from the past. PPG Global was more of a mixing system based on the old idea of flat lacquer base coats. From the FWIW dept., most base coats that DO NOT use a basemaker or reactive reducer (catalyst) are almost always lacquer based in their chemical content, water bournes excluded. I hope that was helpful.
Has anyone used the UNO single stage black? I am going to use it on my Model AA fenders. I used the green UNO on my cab and it looks great.
My $.02, Just finished re-painting my T-Bucket About 15 years (and 55,000 miles) ago, I painted it with some sort of PPG acrilic 2 part black enamel, color sanded and buffed it and got an almost show-quality finish. This time I used PPG Shopline tree-hugger compliant JTX jet black. Besides taking about 6 hours to get hard enough to stop trapping flies, it seems to have so much binder in it that color sanding it turns it sort of grey, like the Ace Hdw rattle-can black that I used on a bondo repair last summer. In other words, the stuff is crap. Any suggestions as to some decent DIY sand-out-the bugs black? And where can I get it?
This is what I would have suggested as well. perhaps PPG is just fazing out their single stage enamals.
its a frame . rustoleum .... done and its 25 bucks a gallon and if you need to repair no brainer get out a brush
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