Now you know you need the same material so we won't re-hash that. Since you're going to re-coat sand it to as fine a grit as you feel confident with spraying over. I'd take it to 800, maybe 1000. Next, you want to put a coat on ONLY the darker areas 1st. Take your time, fog it out just past the darkness, let it flash like you did a full coat. Once covered then you can lay a nice and pretty couple coats over it. Let your 1st one be a bit "thin", like just a real easy p*** and let it bite in good. The next 2, follow through real easy and think out your pattern so where you end up you don't get a dry line over the very next application. I like to go bottom of the rt front fender, over the hood to the bottom of the left, catch as much door and 1/4 panel possible down the left, up over the deck lide, then from the rt door back to the top of the rt 1/4. This should keep all the coats wet enough to absorb the overspray without leaving a dry trail. It may come out nice enough that you only want to nib out the dirt spots. If the roof is clean and slick already, mask it and leave it. If it has to be shot I'd do it 1st before the rest I mentioned.
NOTHING wrong with Ful-Thane as an economical paint. I hate to say it this way but this was entirely operator error. First you would have been miles ahead laying down a WHITE sealer coat to help knock down trying to get coverage, esp on the darker top. Second it sounds like you had the mix ratio wrong which is another huge hit against it. I've used a bunch of Ful-Thane. lay down a medium coat, a heavy coat, a coat that's about 75 paint/25clear, a coat about 50/50, and a coupla coats of clear. the clear is just to give you lots of leeway on cut and buff really and not necessary. you can get a nice paint job out of ful-thane alone but using the clear and get you to gl***. it also makes touchups easy if need be. I've also shot 3 coats straight ful-thane and a 4th mixed anywhere 75/25 or 50/50 paint/clear. this stuff has a great shine straight outta the gun. I say just bite the bullet and get another gallon mixed up and shoot the **** outta it. I like SPI clear but have used nason clear doing the "mix" also with similar results...ken....
Bringing this back up cause I'm going into the booth tomorrow to reshoot this car, and I have a couple questions. I'm sure I'll get all kinds of answers but here goes. I was told to set my gun (devilbiss finish line)up with the fan wide open and the needle adjusted so the maximum material could be shot. Does this sound correct? Also, I planned on shooting 1 light coat and 2 wet coats of the SS urethane. Hopefully this will be the last time I shoot this car.
There is nothing wrong with NASON, just a less expensice line of DUPONT. I have used NASON before and had good luck. I prefer DUPONT,though, but NASON is a good paint
some colors , I have swapped or added toners...others , I've over reduced or under reduced to get the spray the way I wanted... the 8 2 1 usually works . the nason single ureathane is a decent product on the right application. been on my coupe for 6 years and still shines up when its clean....gotta love Neptune green
That's not the right way to set up a gun. First, most recommendations are pretty generic. You actually have to set it up to fit YOUR style of shooting. Generally, you start with holding the gun at 8 in away from your surface, give it a quick blast of the trigger. Pattern should be a clean distinct oval, not dripping, about 10-12 in high. I never put the fluid adj. full open, you'll get runs like anything, unless you're super fast making your p***es. Usually, though a full open fan will be pretty close to good for painting a car. So, fine tuning to your style, if you work farther away from the surface, open up your fluid adj more. if you work closer, crank it in. Adjust air accordingly. More if farther away, less if close, (up to a point...too little or too much will affect atomization. Do yourself a favor, and download pictures of the various spray patterns that most ho-to sites have. They will give you the common "problem" patterns to look out for, like too much air, clogged cap, pattern too small. Compare your gun patter with it. Test spray a s**** piece with your distance and speed, and see if the paint lays down nicely. Adjust as necessary.
I have been painting for 40 plus years. I have read a lot of good and bad advice in this post. so hears mine . never mess with paint formula's [ unless you think your smarter than the chemistry tech that created them!!!] always follow the reduction levels to the letter. Alway's use a sealer. always check your gun adjustments before you start each job. never use a wide open trigger pull! In the immortal words of jon kozmoski " a full pull is a man out of control !!! and most importantly make sure your first attempt at painting is not your or a customer's car!!! like everything it takes practice!!!
i like to pull about a 3-4' strip of masking paper and tape it somewhere on the wall and use that to set my gun to what i'm spraying and i always add in a little for material loss for doing so. i also tend to clean the tip/cap good while coats are flashing. i had one clog a little and give me a big headache i couldn't figure out till i was out of the booth when i was in autobody school. my instructor walked back in the booth checked on the test paper on the wall i mentioned(again learned in school) and told me to clean it and try it. from that day on it became habit. alot of people want to say a sealer isn't necessary but i like the poster above think it's just money well spent. alot of people will say some of the things that are habit for me use extra material and creates waste. so be it. i don't paint often enough to worry about 5% or so extra waste(that probably a HIGH guess). you'll waste way more fixing mistakes...ken....
Rookie mistake that I know I've made (recently also) was I neglected to fully clean the material cap vent.... I keep the gun super clean when painting but forgot and ran a door..... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Well I shot the 53 today and it came out pretty good. More orange peel than I wanted but my main focus was to make sure to get enough material on there so if there were any issues I would have enough material to knock it down. I got 3 good coats on it, 1 gal. Of paint. Kinda disappointed though cause as I was spraying, it was laying down nice and flowing out nicely, but later as I went back to check it out it seemed to begin to orange peel quite a bit. I had the fan wide open and the trigger about 3/4 open at about 20 psi with the trigger pulled. My gun didn't seem to be spraying as smooth as it should and the first thing my veteran painter buddy said when he saw it was that it looked like my gun was sputtering. I ran reducer through it every time I emptied the cup. Oh well, looks like I have some sanding in front of me. Thanks for the tips guys.
Hey, Just setting up a gun by adjustment of the fluid and air control won't tell you how that spray pattern will perform under fire! Several spray p***es over some masking paper ( as pointed out by an above poster ) will. Always make those p***es with the actual product you're gonna shoot, correctly reduced/thinned. The fluid knob adjustment, fully cranked out, and a slow reducer/thinner used, are old production painter tricks for the painting of big trucks, equipment & aircraft. Unless you're good and fast, you'll probably just waste material, and produce '' hangers '' (saggs ) and dry spray areas. Most of the low priced SS urethanes require some additional reducer to get great flow, without orange peel, but overreduction will result in short service life for the paint job. " Meahwhyle, back aboard The Tainted Pork "
EXCELLENT post^^^^^ As a retired painter (started painting in 1970), USE A SEALER that is close to the color you are shooting. ABSOLUTELY better color hold out and less material used to cover dark and light spots!!! ALWAYS use a sealer, better to use the sealer than to REDO the car because of shadows............. Your Pal, Gary
I was actually painting over the same color, colonial white. My first try I didn't get enough material on and the paint began to get a bit thin when wet sanding so we decided to reshoot the whole car. I actually did quite a few p***es over some masking paper before putting paint on the car. Sure did look like it was flowing out nicely until it started to set up more. I'll get a better idea tomorrow when we pick it up.
What were your temp/humidity when shooting? What does the directions recommend for painting conditions? Three coats sounds right to be cleared over. More material sounds in order. Pix,pix,pix. Your using a gravity feed gun now?
Check this out. I love what happened to my devilbis. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=774254&highlight=spray+gun Sputters are not fun-
some colors are just bad hiders, so ask your paint supply co for what we call checker markers ,they look like a black & white checker board , they stick on ,and put one on all the windows,spray a coat over it every time you put on a coat of paint on, when you can't tell any color change from the black or white,your covered, add more coats for sanding & buffing as needed, works every time ! what ever brand of paint,,,
Right on. Some colors require a specific tinted sealer. I used to use PPG checked hiding labels but now use checked masking tape #48030 (K-522 Control tape) from FBS Distribution at 604-472-0773 in British Columbia. I stick several pieces all over the car on edges of masking paper and low on the car to get an accurate read on hiding. It's well worth the effort. For complete paint jobs end to end top to bottom I adjust the gun (DeVilbiss High Efficiency gravity feed) for full pull. It means one less variable allowing for concentration on gun speed and distance. It's not for beginners though.
That's the way I've always done it. If I opened the flow full bore on my old #7 knock-off, I couldn't run fast enough to keep all the paint from running onto the floor!
That was kind of my thinking when I shot it. The first time I shot it (1st time Ive ever shot a complete car) I got caught up in messing with the fan, air pressure and Material feel adjustment while shooting and just started confusing the hell outta me as Im painting. This time I wanted to set it before I started shooting with the fan wide open and the trigger about 3/4 pull and leave it there. I figured I could control the amount of material being applied by the speed of my p***es and the distance. I had much better luck this time. Far from perfect but better. BTW, please tell me that solvent pop can be sanded out. Believe I have a couple areas with that.
Thanks for the info guys. Like I said, this is the first car I've ever painted so it's a humbling learning experience. I lay fibergl*** and shoot gel coat for a living but this paint stuff is whole different deal.
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