Projects Sketch-o-meter approaching red

My new shop helper. Built this floor anchored receiver hitch the other day and finally....putting it to work.

I'm going slow with it....because, this is a little too new to trust.

Where do you guys believe I'm at on the Sketch-o-meter??

 

I don't think I would lift that A by the roof.

 

I can’t see what the ceiling situation is but that all looks good to me.

and model A’s get lifted threw the door windows all the time. I’ve yet to hear of any catastrophe

 

It'll be interesting to hear the group on that topic. Additionally, I've shimmed the inside top door gap at the lifted area to lessen stress on the henges. And the 2x4 it to keep the force from crushing the old wood top. I've got a few lifts in now.... but just slipped some shims under the sub frame while I adjust the block n tackle up a bit....need some more travel.

 

As long as someone is holding your beer your fine.

 

I've got an engineered beam above that "supposed" to be good at 1K midspan....and I'm not midspan.

 

Use a 2x6, 1' wider in length, of the width of car, basically taking the"Crush" outta what ya got goin on,It'll work... If not the strap will want to crush the center...

 

I could do that.. good call!

 

I wouldn't do it, but then I've spent many hours aligning crooked doors and appreciate the labor it takes to fix them.

 

This car had it's cherry popped a long time ago. Adjusting doors is not step in the foreseeable future....but I'd not do this if the car was at a more final stage. But for now... I believe it'll be alright.

 

I don't just mean shims under the subrails, I mean taking the twist out of the doors, bending the hinges back after they were kinked, etc. But you go ahead, you've got a plan.

 

Hmmm, ok I'll go ahead then. Hey thanks for your perspective.
....I said I shimmed the inside jamb....not the subrail. But hey

 

Wenches and hot rods go together well.

 

If it was mine, (but it isn't) I would lift it by the lower firewall supports where it bolts to the frame in the front. In the back I would remove the trunk lid and lift it by the sides inside the trunk. Four straps coming together above the roof. The way you have it rigged, you could pull the top all out of place screwing up the door alignments and racking the body.

 

Well, it might work, but it looks more like one of those YouTube misadventure videos to me. Best of luck.

 

I wouldn't trust those glued in anchors. You are putting a side load on them, which is going to leave you with only one or two of the bolts taking the load. I would be concerned about threads or the anchors themselves pulling out. Guess I just don't trust glue to support something that heavy. I know epoxy is strong, but how well did it bond with the concrete?
It would be safer to cut a hole in the concrete and dig down at least a couple feet with posthole diggers. Then set in a piece of receiver tubing and pour in concrete to fill. More work, but could save your car - - - or your life.

 

How heavy do you think a gutted coupe body weighs? You could likely stand inside it with the floor out of it so your on the floor and pick it up that much by yourself. This isn’t a caddy it’s a model A.

He’s got a board across the top of the roof, while I think the cowl feet/ trunk side is a great idea I don’t think he’s risking much doing it like he’s got it.

Maybe if he planned on storing it this way or turning it into a hanging seat for the shop

 

Hey, I had mine roped to the rafters ( 2x4s ) for nine years.
<-------<<< the coupe.

 

..
<--------<<<
Me on the tow bar.

 

If I tried this, the winch would pull out of the floor and smack a big dent in the side of the car.

 

Don't know if it's the same stuff or not, but they use an epoxy to hold the bolts in the roofs of the coal mines around here. If it will hold tons of rock from crashing down on their heads, surely it will hold a 300 lb coupe body.....

 

Not all epoxies are the same. Then, you have compression versus tension. I don't think you can compare these two situations.

 

The 5/8's dia x 5in red heads are a mechanical locking anchor with a flaired bottom and a collar that when tightened the flared end expands the split collar to the walls of the hole to grip. So you dope up the holes then you torque to 90ft pounds and then let the epoxy set for a few days. Then it's locked and your walls are not prone to loosening with use.

 

Four of us easily lifted my '29 Model A body off the frame so your body isn't that heavy. I would use carpentry shims, as used to install windows and doors, to keep the door gap's in place. IF you followed the directions of the Simpson Strong Tie Epoxy, you aren't going to pull out those anchors. Simpson makes a great product!

 

I'm the wrong guy to ask. The nerves-to-sketchyness ratio continues to decrease as I get more experienced (meaning my sketchy stuff has eventually worked out). Hahaha

I'd prefer lifting it at the quarter windows in your situation. I wouldn't want to put any unnecessary stress on the door hinges. When lifting my coupe body in that area we had the doors off.

 

You ever tried to remove one of these mechanical (no epoxy) wedgits after it's been tightened? If the hole is the proper size they don't come out.

 

I'd just cut them flush and call it good. Another thing I did was ensured the 3 points were equally spaced so I can rotate it left and right to two other lift points

 

Yep. Done that when I was a young man. I think you will be fine.

 

Yep, worked for a while at Winchester as a young man doing just that. They're great but with enough force, you can pull anything apart. They do exceed their ratings, though.

 

The Eagle has landed! Thanks guys on all the input.
R/
Boxcar