Hey guys, searched here and around the web for the right answer, and asked the local machine shops. I have a couple 8ba motors. Each needs at least one sleeve. The motor will be put in a '50 ford 2d, and I am looking for mild, but reliable power. Thinking of going with between and 4.000 and 4.375 stroke. I am not looking for a ton of power, but since I need to sleeve and I need pistons, rods, etc., I want to get the most bang for my buck. Questions is, when sleeving these blocks, what is the largest ideal bore size? Also, what are the pros/cons, if any, of sleeving only one or two cylinders with the larger stroke/bore? Naturally, the different material between the original cylinders and the sleeves will expand and contract at different rates, albeit a nominal amount. Am I way off, or thinking too hard? Also, I know there are a lot of HAMBers from eastern MO, any recommendations for machine shops? I was leaning towards ****ons Machine shop in O'Fallon. My landlord uses them for his flathead stuff, and he seems to like them. Any and all advice is appreciated. Later, F'n-100
I never had sleeves put in a flathead. But have run them in GMC and ohv Ford motors. Sleeved the cylinders that needed it and ran em. The first engine I ever put togeather was a '40 Ford that came with sleeves. That was '58 or 9
I've got an 8BA which was bored to 3 3/8 ' in a previous life. Tore it down for a re-do and found a badly scored cylinder. Sleeved it back to a 3 3/8" bore 14 years ago and no hiccups. As an asides, How do expect to get 4 3/8' stroke?
Their are stroker cranks, but I think they max out at 4.25" stroke. Maybe he meant 4-2/8? with a 3.375" bore that's 304 cubic inch. I'd limit stroking the engine because it has 'iffy' breathing abilities anyway.
Questions: Why sleeves...cracks?? Do cracks extend to valve seats or anything else requiring a bunch of work?? How much will this cost, and would it be easier/cheaper to just get a good block? Bore: 3 5/16 nice increase, nearly perfectly safe. 3 3/8 riskier. 3 7/16 for crazed dragracers... Stroke...not just $$, but piston speeds and side loads on pistons go up after 4"...think about tradeoffs; at some point benefits drop behind shortened engine life, perhaps fading efficiency at higher revs.
Used to be a guy here with a 304 in a 50 Merc. Smoked like a frieght train, ran HOT! and never made near the power the 276 he replaced it with did. One long time Flathead builder I respect says that short of filling part of the water jackets and enlarging the ports into them, Flathead ports just don't feed a 300 plus incher very well. He dynoed a 286, a 296, and a 304 all built to comparable specs. The 296 made more power than the 304. Just build a 276 and tell 'em whatever ya want come bench racing time. Nobody will ever know the difference.
This is a restrictor plate motor, after all...ports on your 304 will be the same basic ones as a '32 Ford...
A good point, I hadn't thought of that. Those big inch flatheads were always interesting to me, but out of my budget, I was lucky to afford my 4inch crank and some port work.... Back on subject, I had to sleeve one of my cylinders, (wrist pin s****ed a big gouge out of the wall), it turned out great.
I was looking at the **** crank. But the info you guys have given me has changed my mind. There are cracks down the length of the cylinder wall, which is why I am sleeving. If I went with the stock crank and the 3 5/16 bore, would this be the best bet. Should I look for a merc crank? Any other recommendations for crank? Sorry for the questions. Not many people around here are into flatheads, and the answers I have gotten elsewhere on the web are obviously wrong. I appreciate the help and knowledge you all have offered. The wit and humor too. Later, F'n-100
Yes, try to find a 4" crank, the extra torque will be nice since you have a truck that has a little more weight to it than a little roadster for example. My 8ba is great, and the only crack I have to worry about is the one in my bank account after buying all those expensive parts....
Haha! I hear ya. It's actually going in a 50 ford 2d coupe. I really like the ideas you guys have given me. Thanks everyone! Later, F'n-100
Back on the question. I'd add that my 8BA block has 8 sleeves. Most m*** engine remanufacturers just sleeved all the cylinders, if even only one needed sleeving. It simplified parts handling and ***embly.
3 5/16 bore is great for hp. You can get a 4 1/8 stroke and pistons for the same price as 4". If you have any other questions call me 818-248-2347 H&H Flatheads.
I was lucky to find a 51 Merc for $50 but it was stuck. When I got it pulled apart and cleaned and magnifluxed there were no cracks. But the offending stuck cylinder was pitted past tolerance so it had to be sleeved and a new exhaust seat inserted then the whole thing was bored to .060 over. The fellow doing the machine workhas been doing this since he got back from Nam and has built probably thousands of flatheads over the years and he acted as this is no big deal. Displacement is good but breathing is better so the trade-off for a strong street flattie is 4" Merc crank with bore within factory tolerance but do as much as possible to make it breath. i.e. porting and relieving and slight mods to guides and valvestems.
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