Register now to get rid of these ads!

Sleeving a Flathead?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Pancho, Jul 20, 2004.

  1. Pancho
    Joined: Apr 18, 2004
    Posts: 65

    Pancho
    Member

    Anybody had a flathead Ford(49-53) block sleeved? I picked up a motor for free from a friend but one cylinder looks too pitted to bore out. This block is already .040. How much more overbore will it stand? Should I just find another block? Thanks, Bob
     
  2. Unkl Ian
    Joined: Mar 29, 2001
    Posts: 13,509

    Unkl Ian

    Should be able to go .125 over.
    And I doubt it's THAT pitted. [​IMG]

    Find out who sells pistons,they come in standard sizes.
    See what sizes are available.
    I think I've heard of 3/16" over,but that might have been on early blocks.

    AV8 would know.
     
  3. jalopy43
    Joined: Jan 12, 2002
    Posts: 3,085

    jalopy43
    Member Emeritus

    A good shop should be able to sleeve it,if it needs it. My Dad had an 8ba block bored .100 over. I think the max is.125
     
  4. Unkl Ian
    Joined: Mar 29, 2001
    Posts: 13,509

    Unkl Ian

    Check all the other cylinders for cracks,and wear.
    If the cylinders show very little wear,it might make sense to just sleeve the one cylinder.

    Even if you have to bore it to the max,it will probably outlive you.
     
  5. Pancho
    Joined: Apr 18, 2004
    Posts: 65

    Pancho
    Member

    So its true that you can bore one up to an eighth of an inch. Next question, are pistons available for that huge overbore? Not that I would go that big on a street motor anyway. The pistons I'm seeing are all designed for the Merc crank. Who does the stock 3 3/4 stroke pistons, Speedway? Egge? Jahns?
     
  6. AV8 Dave
    Joined: Jan 3, 2003
    Posts: 680

    AV8 Dave
    Member

    Pancho: My block is at .040 with .008 wear and I plan to go to .080 to clean it up as the old boring machines did each cylinder individually and sometimes resulted in cylinders not being parallel to each other. My flathead friendly machinist recommended this approach. I did have a bit of a struggle to get pistons but then I'm in Canada and the ice and snow make things difficult at times! [​IMG] Before you do anything, have it hot tanked and magnafluxed and then if it checks out OK, redi-stripped or some form of chemical cleaning of the water jackets to ensure cool runnin's! [​IMG] Hope this helps! Regards, Dave.
     
  7. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    I know Patricks used to sell pistons for both 3-3/4" & 4" up to .125" over - that's not too much for a street engine either.

    Anyone who advertises the Merc pistons will likely also have the Ford pistons - just give them a call.

    [​IMG]
     
  8. MattStrube
    Joined: Nov 18, 2002
    Posts: 1,073

    MattStrube
    Member

    I took my flathead to Vern Tardel's place when I was in CA. The Merc block was already .125 over, and needed to be bored. Vern said the max you want to go on a street motor is 5/16. This is what he was telling me. My block needs a sleeve and may be too far gone to work. I might be looking for a good block sooner. We'll see. Anyway, it seems you may be in good shape. Matt
     
  9. Digger_Dave
    Joined: Apr 10, 2001
    Posts: 2,516

    Digger_Dave
    Member Emeritus

    This question is a bit OT.
    A friend is re-assembling an 8BA engine after boring the cylinders .030 over.

    When the pistons and rods are installed on the right bank, the rods are sitting in the middle of the wrist pin.
    BUT, when we try to install the pistons and rods in the left bank; THE RODS AREN'T IN THE CENTER of the wrist pins!

    I have NEVER run into this before! The crank, rods and block are original, and the rods "check out" for alignment. (straight) One old time machinist that he works with, says that there are LEFT and RIGHT RODS!?? I have never heard of this.

    We have switched piston/rod assemblies from side to side and "flipped" the assemblies 180 deg. and STILL can't get the left bank rods to center on the wrist pins!

    Can anyone comment?
     
  10. Smokin Joe
    Joined: Mar 19, 2002
    Posts: 3,770

    Smokin Joe
    Member

    OK, on a street block you can go 3 5/16 and that will allow room for 1 more rebuild at 3 3/8 later. Above that is pushing it. Sleeving a cylinder is no biggie. I had to sleeve one on my motor. Also had to replace the seats due to pitting. Just means more money for machine work. The 4" merc crank and 3 5/16 bore gives you 276 cid as opposed to the stock ford 239cid. You'll need big bore gaskets if you go for it.

    286 merc should be answering this flathead question, but I think the drama of this place finally got to him. I'll defer to Mike or the more experienced flathead guys to explain the flathead offset difference between banks.


     
  11. delaware george
    Joined: Dec 5, 2002
    Posts: 1,246

    delaware george
    Member
    from camden, de

    i took a block to my machinist and he said it needed to be sleeved because it was already bored alot and had alot of water damage...it was gonna cost around 50 bucks a sleave....i found a better block [​IMG]
     
  12. Jim Marlett
    Joined: Aug 12, 2003
    Posts: 869

    Jim Marlett
    Member

    The most common flathead overbores are .030, .060, 3 5/16, 3 5/16 + .030, and 3 3/8. 3 3/8 is pushing it for a street engine, but some blocks will take it just fine. You can get pistons in all of those oversizes. Red's Headers is a good source for parts and advice. There are sleeves in vast numbers of flatheads. Nothing to be afraid of.
     
  13. Digger_Dave
    Joined: Apr 10, 2001
    Posts: 2,516

    Digger_Dave
    Member Emeritus

    [ QUOTE ]
    I'll defer to Mike or the more experienced flathead guys to explain the flathead offset difference between banks.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Joe, I have been "playing" with flatheads since 1956 and have never run into this problem before. I understand the offset of cylinders between the right and left banks and was never aware of "Left" and "Right" connecting rods; so my first reaction was, "Did the machine shop bore the cylinders off center??" But with a .030 overbore, I couldn't see how that small amount would cause such a BIG DIFFERENCE in the rod location (about 3/16 of an inch off center!!) on the wrist pin.

    The only other explanation I can think of was, MAYBE the block was bored incorrectly from the factory!! And the extra .030 over bore just AMPLIFIED the incorrect rod position. (even though it was running fine before the rebuild, and didn't show any abnormal cylinder wear)

    But if the boring bar was centered in each cylinder when boring; THAT shouldn't have made any difference!

    Like I said, "This problem really has me baffled!"

    Sorry for hyjacking this thread!
     
  14. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    Been all over the world and parts of Georgia and ain't never heard of no shit like that...left & right rods...

    Is there pin on both sides of the rod end? If so, run it. If the rod is up against the piston, obviously, you've got bigger issues...

    [​IMG]
     
  15. Digger_Dave
    Joined: Apr 10, 2001
    Posts: 2,516

    Digger_Dave
    Member Emeritus

    [ QUOTE ]
    Is there pin on both sides of the rod end? If so, run it. If the rod is up against the piston, obviously, you've got bigger issues...

    [​IMG]

    [/ QUOTE ]

    And they ARE! (on the left bank)

    Tommorow we will tear everything out of the block and do some SERIOUS measuring.
     
  16. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    What kind of pistons? Perhaps a machining/casting flaw that has the internal pin boss shifted one way or the other?

    Stumped. [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  17. Digger_Dave
    Joined: Apr 10, 2001
    Posts: 2,516

    Digger_Dave
    Member Emeritus

    [ QUOTE ]
    What kind of pistons? Perhaps a machining/casting flaw that has the internal pin boss shifted one way or the other?

    Stumped. [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [/ QUOTE ]

    He is using Badger pistons.
    We are going to pull his engine all apart and do some comparisons of his pistons and my set of Ross. (which in my engine on the Merc crank, center perfectly)
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.