Sleeving holes in frame

I really like sleeved holes in tubing! So I am putting them in my frame.

I really hate hole saws...for me they have never worked out to my expectations, I know there are much better quality saws out there but I have not used them. I was given a set of Greenlee hole knockouts, the kind electricians use. I am not an electrician...and have not used these punches on very thick steel. So I tried it on s**** piece of 2 x 4 .187 wall tubing. It pulled a 2" hole right through it using a ratchet. Then I learned they also make a hydraulic ram that will do the work for you. You can muscle it with a wrench, but DAMN, it is a workout if your doing alot of em.

I checked...you an rent a set with the hydraulic ram for ~$50 a day. Then I checked HF...they sell the set for $89. So I bought a HF set to use pump and ram with my Greenlee punches...they work together.

The other part I liked about this method is...the punches are sized to cut pipe sizes. ie, a 3" punch cuts a 3.5" hole. 3" schdule 40 pipe has a wall thickness of 0.216 and an ID just over 3". Bottom line...the pipe fits snug in the hole. I went with SS pipe for looks. After the ch***is is painted the sleeves will be left brushed SS for contrast.

It may not be the fastest, but it is precise and accurate.

First I lined up the 2 frame rails side by side and marked the tops for placement, then transfered the lines down the side and drilled a hole in the center of the tube on both sides


Then I knocked a 1" hole in the tube. The shaft that pulls the punch is a 3/4-16 bolt so you need something bigger to start. You could also drill it out...


Then you ***emble the BIG punch like you see here. The best part for me is you can line the hole up perfectly, in the center, left to right, I even flip it over and look thru the hole on the underside.


A few pumps later and this is what you have!!! But do one by hand, then see how much you like hydraulic power! The edges are sharp!


Then line up the second hole from the bottom side.


I really liked the fit! I will post a pic when I get it welded in.




Jimmy

 

Interesting. I have a whole bunch of Greenlee punches, squares, rectangles, circles, etc. I never tried to put them through anything that thick. Let us know how fast yours wear out punching holes in your frame!

 

Hmmmmm I did not think those would punch through that thick stuff.

 

thats tight

 

Me either!!! once the cutter breaks thru..its pretty easy turning...or pulling.

On the smaller holes it takes a little effort to get the donut off the bolt as it distorts the metal quite a bit and pinches on the bolt.

 

see! let that be a lesson to you all, you can do ANYTHING if no one told you you couldin't do it!

 

interesting - ive heard about these greenlees - i like the idea of stainless for contrast - thanks for the heads up man

 

WOW! I REALLY wish I would have know about this about 2-months ago. JEESH Jimmy! What the hell took you so long to figure that out!

I dig it for sure!!!!

 

I am sure you can find some other place to Pop another Hole or 2!!

 

When you weld that Stainless in there it's gonna rust... just letting you know...

 

The weld or the pipe? or both? whats your thinking?

 

both, the weld will contaminate the pipe, especially as you're welding stainless to mild steel. The pipe will rust close to the weld.

 

If you polish the Stainless,it shouldn't rust after welding.
Depends on the alloy.

 

304...and that is my thought. the pipe is almost .250 wall the weld will be away from the inside... the weld will be ground and painted. Inside polished. Even if there is a little contamination...rust will be very mild and just a maintenance issue.

 

thanks for the R & D...looks like I am buying some more tools!

cool tees: www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=236347

 

check the stud every now and then they can break. i speak from experience

 

Use stainless filler rod when you weld them and I don't think you would have any issues at all.

 

Most stainless pipe is "L" grade. The "L" means it is low carbon and better for welding. It is the carbon in the stainless that leaches into the heat effected areas of a stainless weld that cause them to rust. The best way to fix this is through pasivation. Pasivation is just a mild acid dip that cleans the grain boundries where the iron leaches out to. It is the iron in these boundries that rust. Once you finish grinding the welds and everything is smooth, make a mild acid solution and brush it around the welded areas. Keep it wet with acid for a few minutes then rince with clean water and then with a solution of baking soda to nutralize the acid.

Or you could just keep it polished and just don't let it get rusty.

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