One size 3 single barrel will out perform one size 1 two barrel through the 2->1 adapter. Depending on the internal size of the size 3 single barrel and the size 1 two barrel, this might or might not be the case if the manifold mounting was originally for the two barrel. Carburetors do NOT like the 2->1 adapters at all. The adapter aggravates the fuel molecules, and they pout! I still am confused about exactly what you have. Assumed, perhaps incorrectly, that you had a manifold for four size 3 single barrel carbs that you wished to use with four Stromberg 97's. Jon
its a 1947 320ci Buick straight 8, which had the stock intake with single 1 barrel Carter WCD carb Wanting to do something similar to this, four 2 barrel Stromberg 97s with their own runners. the intake bore is 1 5/8, which I am not above porting a bit to use larger sized tubing for the intake runners. original idea was to open up the end of the tubing to allow to flow with the Stromberg flanges, but with the offenhauser adapters, they seemed to make more sense, and also what was probably used in this set up
OK - so will revise my assumptions: (1) You currently have only the stock single 2-barrel manifold (2) You are planning to fabricate a new set-up for 4 carbs using round tubing? (3) You are planning on adapting 4 of the Stromberg EE-1 (97) carbs to this manifold, thus needing the adapters? If these assumptions are correct, beauty is certainly in the eyes of the beholder, and the Stromberg EE-1 carbs are what many use for hot rod application; but more performance will be acquired by using a single one barrel instead of the two barrel flowing through the 2->1 adapter. Or in your case more performance would be acquired by using four single barrel carbs instead of four of the Stromberg EE-1's flowing through the 2->1 adapter. It certainly looks like an interesting project. Have fun. Jon.
@carbking is there a 1 barrel carb that you would suggest looking for this application? Nothing is set in stone as far as plans, and originally I had actually been planning on sidedraft SU's so im pretty open to ideas, thanks!
LOTS of single barrel carbs from which to choose. Should you go with sidedrafts, the Carter YH (1953 Corvette) comes to mind. The Corvette versions are made from unobtanium or verypricium, but the YH was also used on a number of marine applications (Chris-Craft, Chrysler, Dearborn, Gray, etc) and it would not be difficult to find 4 matching carbs. Should you go downdraft, there are literally tons of options. Carter W-1's are fairly common, inexpensive, and parts are readily available. Plus really good carbs. Stromberg type B (BXUV-3, BXOV-3, etc.) are less common, but excellent carbs. Zenith 28 and 228, Carter YF, Stromberg EX series are all carbs I like. But the two most important criteria for you: (1) Pick a brand/type with which you (or your tuner) is familiar or wishes to become familiar) (2) Make sure all 4 are identical by identification number, not just by type. In the for what its worth category, Buick was experimenting with 2 Stromberg type AX-2 carbs. I would NOT suggest using these simply because their only original use was the Nash Lafayette. OK you Nash people, I am NOT throwing rocks at the Lafayette, but parts for these carbs are unique, and while we do fabricate the kits, they are quite pricey! Before you determine exactly which brand/type/size you need to determine your intake manifold design. Using a design with no interconnection from runner to runner will drastically increase the carburetor size required, and larger carbs tend to be more expensive than smaller carbs. There is a member here of username panic that has done some marvelous work with explaining intake manifold design. Here is a link to some of his work: http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/intake-tech-c.htm Perhaps panic will check in on your manifold design, or perhaps you might contact him. Think the entire project through, and then you should be happy with the results. When you have decided on the manifold type, and a brand of carburetor, feel free to call, and I will try to assist in selecting a size and type. 573-392-7378 (9-4 Mon-Tues central time). Jon
@carbking Jon, thank you for some of your insight, it is very appreciated and that is a very generous offer to help me make some decisions. I had favored 2 barrel strombergs mostly for the fact that I am more familiar with those over most of the other non 4 barrel carbs, but I do like learning and figuring things out, so I am quite open to ideas. I had been planning on having an interconnection/ tube piece connecting the runners to each other, but had not gotten to the point of determining size of connection. My main points for what I am looking for are reliability, ease of use in regards to drivability as well as tuning, and relative accessibility as far as obtaining matching carbs and parts...and vainly i would like it to look cool i do have some room to play with under the hood, not a ton, but some as far as how much area the runners can take up. Looks like I have some things to mull over! thanks again, I really do appreciate you taking the time to try and steer me in the right direction as a lot of this arena is new to me. this obviously isn't mine, but for an idea of space, another '37 century And a little of a project I started on last night, along with some not so interesting gto work, I made some very early starting pieces for the floor. I haven't started cutting any of the existing floor out yet, still need to grab some smaller steel tubing to brace the inside of the body, as well as keep the floor as a template to copy a bit. here is some of the "poor" from slow and poor. I don't have a sheet metal brake, but even if I did, it probably wouldn't be wide enough to fit the 49" area between the wheel tubs for the axle and differential clearance. worked relatively well to bend the 18ga, not ideal, but it worked, although I could have at the least spent a few minutes cleaning and used my longer table Not much to look at now, still need to make a handful of filler pieces for around the differential recess and tie in the sides that support the square tubing for the trunk tray/ false floor and connect to the wheel tubs. but its a start.
I'm liking the Carter W-1 idea a lot. You can probably find a half dozen or so at Fitchburg on the 22nd on the cheap. I had some in my pile but I sold them all I think. I'll take a look in my bins though. You can make a brake with a couple good pieces of angle iron and a couple sturdy hinges. I'd like to at some point to do long stuff but the HF 30" brake gets most jobs done and can't be beat for the price. I got mine on sale for like $35 but they're under $50 with a 20% off coupon.
The W-1 is the one I seem to be gravitating towards as well, seem simple enough to work on and rebuild kits and replacement parts seem to be easily available. This will be my first time going to the Fitchburg swap meet, but since the Trading Bee one isn't happening anymore, its a good time to start going. i'll have to try and make it to the Great Woods one they are bringing back too. I had made a little brake a few years ago to make some brackets for another car, but it was fairly small and the parts for it had long since been cannibalized for other projects. For the simple angle I needed for, this worked enough, wouldn't really want to do it again and it was probably a little harder since the metal was a little thicker, but I got the piece I needed. This could be a good time to buy one of those cheap bead rollers to stiffen up a few of the floor panels and make it look a little more professional, as well as make some flanged edges to fit some of the pieces together better.
Fitchburg is the big one most of us New England HAMBers seem to hit. The regular monthly one has been at New England Dragway in Epping, NH every last Sunday of the Month from this April 29th to October. W-1's were used on the Chevy 216/235's so I'd imagine there are literally tons of them to be had. Post that you're looking for them over in the EARLY FORD V8 CLUB 2018 SWAPMEET FITCHBURG MASS ROLL CALL thread. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...18-swapmeet-fitchburg-mass-roll-call.1094933/ Unless you've got a shop buddy, I'd scrutinize the manual bead rollers closely. I have one that I've used once because I'm usually alone in the shop and I can't reach the crank to operate it smoothly. I wish it was only 12" deep honestly. I think HF discontinued theirs. Woodward Fab has one that looks like it's a little shorter than the HF one. You can make a top operated wheel to run it but that's a bit of time and parts or you can get a motor kit for around $350.
A little preoccupied with some off topic muscle car stuff for other people the last week or so, but I did manage to grab some short sticks of tubing to start bracing the inside of the buick so I can start cutting the floor out in the next few days and start fitting the new pieces I've been working on. Trying to get most of the big pieces tacked together before installing them in the car to save my back and knees some pain and suffering and just makes it a little easier being able to work. more has been done to this and the differential recess is flush with the rest of it, except for the sides that follow a different plane where it butts up against the wheel tubs. Also inherited a new to me TIG welder, Lincoln squarewave 175. I had been looking for a TIG machine for awhile but they were a little cost prohibitive for what I do, but free fits the budget pretty well. still need to pick up a tank for it, some consumables and filler rods, but looking forward to playing with it. its been awhile since I've done any tig welding so i'll probably be pretty rusty, but im hoping the muscle memory is still buried in there somewhere! Also came across this T bucket with a buick straight 8, (with i believe holley 94s )that has me rethinking my carburetor indecisions a bit. Pat had suggested a log style plenum, but all I could think of were the rectangular tubing ones, that just looked a little ho-hum to me, but im really liking the looks of this, along with that it will most likely run better than individual runners. I like the idea of Carter W-1's but reading up a bit, and although I am admittedly more ignorant on them than I am the 97s, I cant seem to find variable parts to make tuning adjustments for the W-1's like you can for the 97s, which has me a little hesitant about them. Thoughts?
I'm betting the radiator is under the turtle deck. See the long chrome tubes on the drivers side of the engine going back and under the body.
Man, if you can't find enough W-1's or parts, 94's or 97's are still a great option IMO. There's more than one way to skin a cat. There are some vendors that make oval tubing for race cars. That's an idea too. Almost looks like there's two SBC lake headers on there. Is the pattern the same?
Yup, I believe the radiator is in the back and is where those chrome tubes are leading to. I found a post from the guy who's shop built it over on the aaca and looks like it was for sale at one point, and had a little more detail about it. The moon tank up front carries over to the long, narrow tank that's tucked in between the engine and frame rail on the passenger side. Also looks like they hid a fuel rail inside the intake plenum to feed the carburetors? The W-1's are really enticing because of their cost, and maybe i'm looking in the wrong places or they just aren't really available, but i'm not finding parts other than stock replacement parts for them, like different numerically sized jets to size up or down, is where im getting a little hesitant. While cost is a factor, its not the deciding one, and something like a row of 97s on a plenum, that I can mess around with and possibly have better luck with is something to consider. plus it looks pretty cool! Not sure about the sbc manifolds being the same pattern, it looks like it but im leaning towards not being the same, but I'll have to dig out a set and check. A single megaphone/ lake header with 8 exhaust tubes, and leads into an intermediate pipe,a steel pack muffler (porter) and a tailpipe, is what I've been planning on. The dual lake headers look great, but not something I have room for where I plan on keeping the hood sides.
Sounds like its hidden under a louvered back with an electric pump. This ad is saying asking price was $18k, but another ad i saw for it had lowered down into the $11k range, not sure what time frame this was though.i would obviously be using a regular water pump, but im digging the carb and tube setup! http://topclassiccarsforsale.com/fo...-buick-straight-8-not-rat-rod-no-reserve.html
I'd say that's an 11k car if it's titled and on the road, certainly. Looks like a glass body on a well executed home made box tube frame. That whole rig looks like it has a lot of thought and elbow grease in it. That engine is CLEAN. I bet that magneto wasn't cheap! The rest looks like catalog stuff. Superbell front end with Vega steering and a panhard bar. I do not, however, see any shocks.
Quote " I like the idea of Carter W-1's but reading up a bit, and although I am admittedly more ignorant on them than I am the 97s, I cant seem to find variable parts to make tuning adjustments for the W-1's like you can for the 97s, which has me a little hesitant about them. Thoughts?" End quote ?????? The W-1 is infinitely more tunable than the EE-1 (97)! Perhaps you are searching in the wrong spot??? Carter produced 128 different type W-1 carburetors. Additionally 55 different main metering jets, and 159 different metering rods were produced. I didn't bother to count the number of different idle jets and pump jets available. Entries from this page on my website might help your knowledge of the Carter W-1: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carter_service.htm And while it might seem like heresy to some, there is one VERY happy owner of a V-12 Cadillac with two of the Carter type W-1s (tag number 574s) that can now enjoy driving his car. They replaced the original Johnson carbs. Jon.
^^^^^^there you go with the W1's Stooge! I never pulled those 97's as I read Carb King's post and it appeared that W1's were the way to go
@carbking i appreciate the feedback, and have been absolutely impressed by how often i've come across posts from you across the internet offering up your knowledge. I think it was on a ford site, that i had seen you suggesting using a trio of 483's or 574's on a 300 inline 6, and what prompted me to start looking at those ones specifically, especially after reading on the history of the W-1s on your shop's site. I need to ask, what would you use with using a log style manifold similar to what was posted above? Or your ideal set up for what i am trying to accomplish?
Hah, ive been reading too damn much lately instead of just listening to someone who knows infinitely more than me and make a decision!
If you do decide to go this way, give me a call (573) 392-7378 (9-4 Mon-Tues central time). Will be happy to help. GUESSING your original plan for the four carbs will work well. Would try it without connecting tubes, but suggest you find a local friend with an Austin Healey, Triumph, Jaguar, or MG and have he/she school you in the use of a Uni-Syn. It may be necessary to use interconnecting tubes, but you could add those later (I would allow provisions for them) if necessary. I would suggest the 483s and/or 574s. These are quite similar, and may be mixed or matched. The calibrations are the same. They are also the most common of all W-1's, and parts are readily available. The two biggest "gotchas" with these carbs are wear in the pump operating rod/bracket; and the necessity of removing the horizontal idle passage plug, and rodding out the passage. Jon.
Stooge, FYI I used Carter YFs on my 2.5 S-10 motor in my modified. Found multiple swapmeet cores and swapped parts around to create two identical (I think) carbs. I've got about 600 miles on the build, and so far no issues. Parts are readily available from Mike's Carburetor Parts; www.carburetor-parts.com. Chuck
Charles - the YF's are slightly more advanced than the W-1's, but they have diaphragm accelerator pumps. If a daily driver, not an issue; but if driven only occasionally, and one is "blessed" with ethanol fuel, expect to replace the diaphragms every year or so. Best insurance against having to replace the diaphragms is to start the engine regularly keeping fuel in the bowl, and the diaphragms covered. The W-1's have leather pumps, which are totally impervious to even E-85. By the way, nice looking set-up! Personally, I prefer metal fuel lines, but personal preference. Jon.
Semi productive day after getting an off topic truck i have started for the first time this year, i tried to make some progress on the floor of the buick, sort of starting to look like something, sort of. This probably would have been a good job for a step die on a bead roller, but instead i used a chisel tip stretching hammer, a big chunk of aluminum bracket and a bunch of clamps Maybe not an exact match, but close enough and seems like it shpild be plenty sturdy. Still need to make some filler pieces, trim a few places here and thre, weld it all and clean it up a bit
Glad to see you back in the throws, Rickybop. Your posts were always so "entertaining", and they were missed, but we all understood. Hang in there, Bud.
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