Technical Small Block Chevy 350 Rebuild

As have how to split wishbone and pull axles etc... nothing wrong with someone asking questions.

If your offended move along

 

How far back should the harmonic balancer go? I used the install tool. It was going with good pressure on both wrenches then it stopped. Can’t turn the install tool any more. Maybe the balancer hit the second key way? or maybe this is where it should be? I got the timing marker on and it looks like the balancer is right where it should be. I guess I’ll find out when I go to line up the alternator and water pump pulley. Center bolt torqued to 60 ft#, crank pulley torqued to 25 ft#.

 

You will know when you add the pulleys.


You can get a shim kit for the water pump pulleys as well

 

I’ll torque it to spec and let it ride till I get it all together.

 

I got the crankshaft pulley on. Installed the Water pump and pulley. Both pulleys line up perfect.

 

Removed the oil pump because I forgot to put the pump drive shaft in. Reinstalled the oil pump. Installed the gasket and oil pan. Installed the oil filter. Also got the lifters in. Then I installed the heads. Torqued all head bolts to 30, then 50, then 70 ft#. Push rods in as well. It was a good day.

 

Looks great

 

For this engine, I was going to use AC Delco R44LTS6 spark plugs. I will be running an HEI Distributor. I have ordered SHORTY exhaust headers. I don't want to spend a small fortune on 8 plugs. Do I need to get shorty plugs like these:
AC Delco R45TS
NGK V Power TR5
AC Delco Gold 10 Rapid Fire
NGK 3186 G Power
Accel HP Copper Shorty

On my Firebird, I have shorty exhaust and regular plugs (can't remember what I used). I bought a normal deep well socket and modified it to fit. One plug was still pretty hard to get but I got it with some persistence.

 

For the purpose of running the engine on stand, does the size of the radiator matter? I found a Honda Civic radiator, 13¨ x 13¨ (which seems really small).

 

Honda 'should' be adaquate IF....you don't run it for extended lengths of time.
Maybe have an large fan blowing across the front of the radiator once it gets up to temp.
6sally6

 

Hard to say if the rad will be adequate. I'd put an electric fan on it (shouldn't be hard to find one that will cover most all of the rad core) and keep an eye on your temperature gauge. If it isn't sufficient, keep the run times shorter or get a bigger rad.

On the front of the engine, between the timing chain cover and the fuel pump boss, there are two holes, one on top of the other. I doubt the upper hole is threaded , but if it is and if it isn't a blind hole, you will need to put a short bolt in there or you will have an oil leak. I doubt it was drilled through and tapped due to this block originally being fuel injected but worth checking just to make sure.

 

Thats the first indication that something must be wrong...........

Seriously though, did you check your lifters to see that they can be rotated freely by hand when installed, and did you put a good cam lube on the lobes and lifters? The engine valley looks so clean that I had to wonder about whether you used any lube. I'd also flush the pushrods to insure there is no debris or clogging in any of them. Not much worse can happen than wiping a cam when you start a new engine.

 

I think its just a matter of who manufactured them and what machines they use. I always like the ones that had a little radius on one face, and always placed the flat face against the part instead of the bolt head. If a washer is perfectly flat on both sides, its really not going to matter as far as providing the same amount of grip when tightened. Both are just spreading the load from the bottom of the bolt head over a larger area.

 

I was thinking I was using too much lube. I went through almost the whole tube. Lubed all moving internal parts pretty good. Lubed lifters before putting them in. They turn and lift pretty easy. Put valve rods in. Set each valve to 0 lash in the correct firing order. Then 1/2 turn more. When I bought the harmonic balancer, it has every 90 degrees marked so it made setting the lash easier. Did 1 at 0 degree, turned shaft 90 then set #8, turned 90 degree then set #4 and so on. (1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2) last 90 degree turn brought it right back to 0 degree.

I have the old distributor. I took the cam gear off of it and all the internal workings. I am planning on using that for an oil primer when I get that far along.

 

Just got the valve covers, spreader bars and t bolts. Ordered cut to length spark-plug wires 90 degree boots on both ends. hei boots for distributor end. Also got distributor hold down clamp which you would think they would sell with the distributor but no. Also have a 85mm Tach/hour meter, and three 52mm gauges ( water temp, oil pressure, and bolts) 6 spot fuse box, kill switch, starter*****on and three accessory switches (one for fuel pump, one for the radiator fans, and an extra)

I think all I have left to get is the radiator, starter, carb and an air filter.

I have a line on a used Rochester carb for $30. That will be an experience to rebuild. Never worked on one of those, only Holley. I also see the rebuilt Holley carbs, both 500 and 650 are back in stock at Holley.com for $235.

 

Found this radiator. It is 20x12x2 with 2 9” fans. Says it is for 71-77 Chevy Vega.

 

In order to properly pre-oil both sides of the engine, the distributor body itself needs to be in place. I used an old distributor but ground the teeth of the gear so there would be no contact with the cam. This way the oil pump is driven, the cam is not, and the distributor body in place "completes" the oiling system. I used a 1/2" drill to drive the oil pump.

I got my pump spinning and saw oil pressure on the gauge then, while still spinning the pump I turned the engine 1/4 turn, continued spinning, another 1/4 etc until I had gone full circle.

 

The odd angle on the lower outlet might make it hard to connect to your water pump.

 

There are three holes on one end and one hole on the other end of each head, left and right opposite. Do I need to put a bolt in those?


There are some holes on the bottom of the block, I thinks one on each side by the exhaust huggers would be a drain plug. One on the passenger side is the dipstick. What would the others be? Do I need to put a bolt in these to prevent oil leaks?


On the front of the engine, there are two holes on the block on either side of the water pump? What are these for? Do I need to put a bolt in these to prevent oil leaks?


Not sure if I like how the alternator is mounted. The pulleys all seem to line up well. I put a rope around them and measured 45.5 inches

 

Looking at the front of the engine, the top left hole on the block, under the waterpump needs a 3/8"-16 x 1/2" bolt to stop oil from leaking, and the 2 big hole's above the oilpan rail's need 1/4" pipe plugs to keep the coolant in the block, and the dipstick tube needs to be installed. The rest of the holes pictured wont leak.

 

When you installed the rocker arms did you put any****embly lube on the pivot balls and on the tips of the valve stems? Looks a bit dry. I know your'e going to prime it and it will get oil but that would be some cheap insurance.

 

No need to worry with a pipe plug when a wooden dowel drove in the hole will work fine. RTV wooden dowel...cut off the excess...done.
6sally6

 

The engine doesn't know if it is on a stand or in a car. It needs to run long enough to break in cam, etc. Get the correct radiator or this experiment is going to end quickly.

 

For the exhaust headers, should I use anti-seize or put them in dry?

 

Too late now but I always grind off the block casting flash (seen below and to the right of your frost plug) and everywhere else on the block and heads as that***** really shreds knuckles with ease.

 

I’m pretty sure these four holes have something to do with the cooling. What are these four holes for?
I will not have air conditioning. Do these homes just need plugs or do I need to do something with them?


In the box with the water pump, I have these fittings and a little stud. What is the stud for?
The fittings look like a reducer from 3/4 to 1/2.
And two look like like reducer from 1/2 to 3/8

 

For the oil sensor (1/8” fitting) is it ok to put an extension or an elbow coming out of the block? My sensor will not screw in as it hits the manifold. I also noticed this hole under the head. What is it? Do I need to do anything with it? Intake is not bolted on yet.

 

Have to get this mounted to the stand. The space to the right is for a throttle lever. Was going to use diamond plate but…..yikes! That’s expensive.

 

Edit: the vacuum port in the intake is also used to plumb a vacuum****ist power brake booster.