Technical Small Block Chevy 350 Rebuild

My only reply was about the heads.
I'll get a quote for shipping and PM you

 

I’m not sure how to PM here yet.

 

When you click on somebody's profile, there I an option to start a conversation. Once that conversation starts, any new messages can be seen by clicking the envelope icon on the top right, when that icon I red, there is a new message
*note these screenshots are on my mobile phone, I'm sure the computer version is pretty much the same though

 

Had a little time to work in the barn today. I was able to remove all of the pistons. (both halves of the connecting rods were stamped with a cylinder number). 3 and 4 are missing. The pistons are all marked HV1 and a 7 on one side with an F and a F on the other side. All pistons measure 3.99"
Cylinder bores 1,2,3,4,5, and 7 measured at the top, middle, and bottom are 4.02" (used a telescoping gauge and digital caliper to hundredths)
Cylinder bores 6 and 8 measured at the top, middle, and bottom are 4.03"

Crank shaft is stamped 8535. Crank journals 1,3 and 4 are nice and smooth, I was able to clean up 2 (the one that was missing the pistons) but it is not perfectly smooth.
From front of engine:
#1 bearing 3951 791 (two bolt heads)
#2 3952 733 (two tall bolts)
#3 3951 785 (two tall bolts)
#4 3951 765 (one tall bolt, one bolt head)
Main bearing (two bolt heads)
I was able to brake the 5 bolt heads lose. The 5 tall bolts would not budge. I did not want to apply to much pressure (breaker bar) As I am not sure if I should or if there is a special way to take these off? I am not sure why they are tall and not like the others?
On both sides of the block where the cam goes, there are what appears to be three Allen head bolts. I believe I can use two different types of cams?

 

The extended main cap bolts hold a windage tray. Interesting.... And they just unscrew, like the other 5 did.

The three hex plugs above the cam are oil passage plugs, it's a good idea to remove them to clean out the passages. Sometimes heat is required to get those plugs loose without stripping the hex.

You need a dial bore gauge to accurately measure the bore. But you can fake it, too....

 

Can I replace the extended main cap bolts with ones the shorter ones? Are these just regular bolts that I can get at the hardware store or are they specialty bolts for the main bearings? Maybe grade 5 or grade 8 bolts?

I see I can purchase ARP High Performance Series Main Bolts 134-5001 for $40ish. They are rated for 180,000 PSI

Just spent $42 on a bolt kit for my son's Ram truck to install the running boards. Seriously? The bolts included in the kit would have been about $5 at the local hardware store. I guess I shouldn't complain, we got the boards for only $25.

 

Main cap bolts are indeed special, You can use hardware store bolts if you want an expensive failure.

ARP or GM bolts should be used!

 

When I say rough I mean not perfectly smooth like the others. There is an ever so slight groove that I can just barely feel with my fingernail. It seems to be at about the point where the two connecting rods touch. My job tonight is to remove the crankshaft, then measure the diameter of the crankshaft journals. Then put the main caps back on without the crank in place, torque all caps to 70ft# and measure the ID of the holes without bearings. That would give me what I need to know for the thickness of the bearings needed.

 

So my next question is do I need a windage tray or not? From what I have read, a windage tray basically separates the crank from the oil to preventing turning the liquid oil into a froth. Froth is harder for the oil pump to pump and it does not dissipate heat as well as the liquid oil.

If I do use a windage tray, why would there only be 5 windage bolts on my engine? It would make sense that there should be 6, One bearing has a windage bolt and a regular short bolt. odd.

 

Windage tray is for race car guys.

 

There may have only been five main bolts holding the windage tray on. I've fooled with more Fords than Chevrolets but that sounds normal.

If there is only a small line on the crank where the rod journals meet that shouldn't be an issue. Emory cloth and WD40 will take care of that.

 

there’s a few different styles. But the oe should only need 5. Plus one at the oil pump.
The stud “missing” should be near the dip stick

 

The 350hp 350 in my OT 69 Vette came with a windage tray from the factory. I had the motor apart back in the 80's but its been too long to remember for sure if it had 4 of the stud bolts to mount the tray, or 6, but I'm thinking just 4.

Edited: after looking at Anthony's pic maybe it was 5

 

perhaps you're used to working on different types of engines? The main bearing bores generally don't need attention unless it spun a main bearing. We check bearing oil clearance with the bearings in place, using plastigage, or using a bore gauge set with a micrometer to the crank journal diameter. What you really need to do for the crankshaft is what I mentioned before, use a 3" mic to measure the journal diameter, and you need to measure it accurately, as the tolerance on the journal diameter is about 0.001" or less. If you can feel a groove with your fingernail, then you definitely need to look at it closely and measure carefully, because that's the indication that something might be wrong.

 

The two threaded holes on either side of the cam hole are for the cam retention plate used with roller cams. The three "stumps" in the lifter valley, each with a threaded hole, are for the cam "spyder" used with roller lifters/"dog bones". If your lifter bores are straight, not stepped, I would say this engine is designed to accept all factory roller components.

Below is a pic of a stepped lifter bore ... if your block has these, you are stuck with a flat tappet cam.

 

From your initial picture,,,it looks like it spun #4,,,,,,the journal looks rough.

Tommy

 

THIS THIS THIS!
And this doesn't mean the used micrometer that might have been bought at a garage sale that's missing the checking "standard", otherwise you might as well be measuring with a rock.

 

Windage trays are for everything.

 

I have the engine disassembled. I have the main caps off and have removed the crankshaft. I have cleaned everything up. When I put the crankshaft back in so it is riding on the bottom half of the bearings (no top bearing or main caps on, I would think the crankshaft should turn very easily and even coast a little upon giving it a spin by hand. It does not. It moves but it does take a little bit of effort to turn it. I have not measured the bearings or the main journals yet. They all look to be in good shape. I have heard about using plastigauge to check bearings. I have not used it though.

 

I would not expect the crankshaft to rotate easily until I had the caps on and torqued. The shape of the bearing inserts and the bore in the block change when you tighten the bolts.

 

Also,,,,,,those bearings should be wet with lubricant to spin well,,,,,dry journals and dry bearings don’t cooperate very well .

Tommy

 

An engine being run at moderately low rpm on a stand , with no load, would not benefit from a windage tray.
From the look of the pics and description, he 'll have enough expense just getting it running.

 

Is there such a thing as a reusable head gasket? This is an engine to be run on a stand to fiddle around with in which I may take apart a few times. Head gaskets I have used on tractors are a one time use. Each time you take the heads off, another set of gaskets is needed.

 

He already has the windage tray. What expense are you referring to in keeping it?

 

There are reusable head gaskets for some engines, and some types of gaskets, but probably not quite what you're thinking.

 

Anyone know how to ship heads?
Thanks

 

Put them in a box, get an ebay account, or find one of the 3rd party shipping companies that gives big ups discounts. Ship them ups. It costs some money.

 

Shipping with Fastenal is cheaper, not sure if that's an option for you?

 

Looking ahead. I need to get a flex plate and a starter. I see there are 153 and 168 tooth flex plates available. Some are internal balanced and some are external balanced. My Engine is a SBC 350, 5.7L. I believe it is a 1988 (From what I came up with according to the stamped numbers on the block). Is it an internally or externally balanced engine? Which flex plate would I need: internally balanced or externally balanced? As far as teeth go, I guess 153 or 168 does not matter as long as it matches the teeth on the starter correct? I appreciate all the help everyone has been offering.