#1) OK, I finally found all my casting numbers, could one a ya tell me what they mean? front pad V0I20EC <--those could be zeros or o's... In the back 3892657 Oh, pleeease, I hope that doesn't mean I got a 265... at least Ricky might leave me alone if I have the good enough excuse of a puny engine! #2) Given the info gleaned from those numbers, what should my valve adjustment settings be? #3) Guy who redid my heads advised me to carefully clean the old headgasket remains/crud of the deck with a new razor blade scraper. Now, whoever put the heads on last used that copper stuff... do I have to scrape and scrape and scrape until I can't see copper anymore? I mean, I feel I'm pretty much done scraping, its a perfectly smooth surface as far as the razor blade is concerned, but I still see copper. Is this cool? #4) I bought the most basic headbolts at PAW today, (along with a bran spankin new edelbrock 600, gaskets, and an Accel adjustable vacuum advance for my HEI...) The bolts already come with some teflon sealant on the threads... I asked the more knowledgeable guy if I needa put any additional silicone on them, he said, no, leave em alone. Does this Jive? Thanks in advance, you guys rock, J
3892657 = 1964-1967 302 or 327 or 350 Whats the number on the heads? it is located inside where the valve springs are.
1: Type these numbers into www.dogpile.com and you'll get more info than you'll ever need on this engine. 2: See number 1. 3: no, but use a flat fine file on them and that should be enough to get any burrs off. 4: Dunno, but that sounds good to me.
Block is a 64-67 327 available in trucks and passenger cars. If all old gasket material is off wipe with laquer thinner and that should remove copper spray. I had the same deal on my heads. If installing new gaskets and they are not steel install them dry. I would make sure all the bolts that go into water passages have thread sealnt on the bottom inch of the threads.
And, just for your info, if that's the casting #s on your block...you did pretty good. If you don't want it, let me know.
3892657....302.....67....2...Z-28 Camaro 3892657....327.....67....2 3892657....350.....67....2...Camaro Mmmmmm, 302.
according to the casting number on the back, its a 327. as for the VIN number, the V is the plant at which it was made. the V is the Flint (engine) plant. the next set of numbers is the month in which it was made. its 01, which is january. next is the 20 which means the 20th of january. and the EC is the engine suffix code. EC is either a 1966 or a 1965. are there any other numbers on the block? hope this helps diego
The EC on the pad is the key...... the casting number along with the EC means 1) 65 - 66 327 w/300 horsepower From a Chevelle 2) 66 - 67 327 w/275 horsepower from a Chevelle The casting date will tell which year.
Thanks guys, great stuff so far. I'll post the head casting #'s tomorrow when I pull em outta the bags, they're camel hump with big valves... guy told me they were likely 9.5 to one.. he said the dimensions of the valves, but I didn't write it down... No biggy, its just a nice daily driver engine. I'm just afraid of finishing off my tired old differential with this freshened top end and upgrade from 2 to 4 barrells. Yeah, I'd probably get rid of the truck before I got rid of this engine! No plans of either. Thanks again, J
[ QUOTE ] So is a 302 a 327 with a 283 crank or vice versa? [/ QUOTE ] 4 inch bore (327 block) and 3" stroke (283 crank). 7500 rpm outta the box, no problem. Best engine Chevy ever put out.
Lookin at these new bolts again, I reeeeally wanna put more goo on them... should I avoid my gut instinct? If not, what should I use, same ol hi-temp orange rtv I use everywhere else? (yes,yes, even THERE, too.) uhm... valve clearances por favor? Thanks, J
I dont think you need any more goo on your bolts I've put many of these things together without any thing on the threads and never had one leak.
The valve adjustment depends on the cam....If your using a hydralic cam, you will have to initially adjust each lifter... 1. find a way to rotate the motor (either by hand with a wrench, a jumper wire with pushbutton on the starter solinoid, or have a buddy bump the ignition switch while you watch the valves)... 2. when the exhaust lifter on one cylinder begins to move (open valve) adjust the intake on the same cylinder (you will be close when the pushrod has a slight drag if you roll it in your fingers)...then put 1/2 turn on the nut to get it snug. 3. when the intake lifter moves up and begins to go back down, adjust the exhaust in the same manner as above. 4. Now, with alittle distributor adjustment you should be able to start the engine...it will probably run like shit. 5. With the engine running, back off the rocker nuts (one at a time) until the rocker arm is "clacking" from to much play. 6. Now, begin to tighten the nut slowly until the "clacking" goes away, then give it about a 1/4 turn more. Repeat this step one at a time on all rockers... 7. You may have to go back and redo some until there is no valvetrain noise..."clacking". This process can get messy cause you have to do it with the valve covers off and the oil is pumping through the pushrods (hopefully!!!) there are some gadgets that you can plug onto the rod end but they are a pain to use. Solid cams can be adjusted with feeler gauges and no mess...with the hydralic though the lifters must be pumped up for proper adjustment...that why the engine must be running. Hope this is what you were looking for, its the only way I have ever done it...maybe someone else has a more technical approach to it? BTW...no goo on head bolts...white stuff is to keep them from corroding and seizing in the threads, leaks are not really a concern on head bolts.
AWW SHIT! This is actually the first time I'll have adjusted valves on a non-solid lifter engine... I forgot about the fuckin oil bath... Cars truly are mechanical WOMEN, you fuckin spend $632 (so far) on her, yet she immediately expects you to take boiling oil right in the eye... Any of you "GREASER" types wanna come over for free hair-oil and adjust this shit for me? I'll supply the beer and laugh at you! I better invest in a fender cover...
Yeah sounds like a 65 66 327 here- also the 302 had its own specific crankshaft and is a much sought after peice. I believe its a large journal crank[ 283 stroke but different]
Hey Burndup, you cover transportation both ways and I'll come adjust 'em up for ya! Hell I'll assemble the whole damn motor get it fired for ya! You can even keep the oil!
Ha! thanks, I spose I can deal with some oil then go take a shower, its just the shock of forgetting something this big, thats all... gotta get out there and put it together.
just adjust the vlaves the old slow way with the engine off. thats the way i do mine. it works just as good. diego
I have a set of clips that attach to rocker that defects the oil jet, but still allows you to adjust lifters.
I adjust the hydraulic lifters like I do a solid but when doing it I tighten the rocker arm 3/4 of a turn after there is no clearance (zero lash) between the valve stem and the rocker arm tip. Then when I fire it up...it is close enough to break in the camshaft.... Very Important step..... About 20 minutes or so at 2000 to 2500RPMs ....vary the speed. I do this with the valve covers on. Then set the timing, adjust the carb and install the 1 cut valve cover. Back the rocker off till it ticks......then adjust. Go to the next ones. Then do the other side with the cut valve cover. Readjust the timing (more of a check.....) and the carb.
Most of what I read seems to say that you adjust cold until the slakc is off then 1/2 turn. Do you have to go and adjust them again? Or is it only if they are off?
i gave up the oil bath approach years ago, seems even with a cut open valve cover, oil spray will find its way everywhere. i use the following method for hydraulic or solid lifter EO= exhaust opening IC= intake closing install pushrods and rockers and adjust them enough so you can see movement when you turn the engine over i like to start at number one cylinder and work my way back, then switch sides start at the front and work back rotate engine until the exhaust valve is open approx. 1/3 of the way. then set the intake valve for that same cylinder. solid set the lash to spec. hydraulic adjust rocker arm until all slack in pushrod is gone, i do this by spinning the pushrod with thumb and finger till i start to feel tension, i then turn adjusting nut on rocker arm 1/2 turn, this will preload the lifter pushing the lifter plunger down slightly off the retaining ring. i then rotate the engine till the intake valve opens and starts to close, stop when the intake is halfway closed. now adjust your exhaust valve the same way that you did the intake. when finished move on to the next cylinder and do that set of valves until all have been adjusted. when you sart engine, if you hear clacking you have missed one. i like to run thru the procedure again once the cam is broke in and the engine is still warm, especially on solids also i like the 1/2 turn approach on stock engines, but usually go 3/4 to a full turn on high performance stuff that might see a little higher RPM, it tends to keep the lifter from pounding on the retaining ring if it pumps up just something that works for me
I also use Racefab's method. Got it from the instructions enclosed with new Crane cams. After adjusting the valves, you can slap the covers on before starting the engine, saving yourself from an oily mess. Works everytime for me.
[ QUOTE ] Yeah sounds like a 65 66 327 here- also the 302 had its own specific crankshaft and is a much sought after peice. I believe its a large journal crank[ 283 stroke but different] [/ QUOTE ] From what I understand, the '67-'68 302s were small journal and the '69 is the DZ large journal. I'm not saying this is the gospel, just what I think I can remember after drinking 8,000 beers since I heard it. I actually had a 327/283 hybrid, not an original 302. Screamed like hell!!!
The Jalopy Journal
