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Technical Small Block Ford Gasket Install Advice

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 51504bat, Jun 19, 2023.

  1. 51504bat
    Joined: May 22, 2010
    Posts: 5,670

    51504bat
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    It's been over 50 years since I put a small block Ford together so I could use some advice. I did a search but didn't find anything current. The engine was long blocked by the machine shop and I'm getting ready to bolt the intake manifold and pan on. For the intake IIRC I used a little Permatex #2 around the water intake area on manifold gasket and the front and rear seals that came with the gasket kit. I now see on U Tube (I know if it's on the internet it must be correct:cool:) that some of the posters recommend not using the front and rear gaskets from the kit but to use a bead of RTV sealer. They use RTV sealer the on water intake area where I used to use good old #2. Being an old fart I'm not so sure on the RTV instead of the gasket.

    As far as the pan goes I used #2 Permatex where the front and rear rubber seals met the rail gasket and only used grease on the rail gasket. I've seen some builders recommend some #2 in the corner area where the rail gasket meets the front and rear rubber seals as well as where the rail gasket meets the rubber seals.

    Thanks in advance for any thoughts, advice, or recommendations.
     
  2. Malcolm
    Joined: Feb 9, 2006
    Posts: 8,179

    Malcolm
    Member
    from Nebraska

    For the intake gaskets, I always use RTV (I don't recall which version right now) around the water ports on both sides of the gasket. I agree with the discarding the front and rear intake to block gaskets and using a bead of RTV. Also where the corners of the intake meet the block/heads.

    I also agree with some RTV where the front and rear pan seals meet the rail gaskets.
     
    Deuces likes this.
  3. The answer to your question depends on several factors- heads and intake being used, 302 vs 351, and type of gasket. The two major types of intake to block gaskets are cork and silicone with locating rails. The latter work very well, the former not so much. The use of RTV to make a "dam" is the preferred method for aftermarket aluminum intakes, especially 351s, or if more than .015 has been decked off the block. A thin wipe of RTV around the water ports is also OK, but not necessary with quality intake gaskets. Make guide pins for all 4 corners to align the intake and lower it into place. I use 5/16" x 4" bolts with the heads cut off and a screwdriver slot cut into them for removal.
     
    Deuces likes this.
  4. Yep, RTV for the intake end gaskets/corners. For the water ports and pan, I like Yamabond because it doesn't leave a 'bead' squeezed out like RTV does. Yamabond will 'flow' onto the adjacent surfaces instead, no bead to possibly come off and go somewhere bad. The downside to it is it has a definite shelf life once the tube is opened, you'll probably end up throwing 1/2 or more of the tube away unless you're doing a lot of engines. It's also too runny to use for the end gaskets, it won't fill large gaps.
     
  5. RmK57
    Joined: Dec 31, 2008
    Posts: 3,163

    RmK57
    Member

    I use just a dab in the corners where gaskets meet. I never use it around the water jackets, that’s what the gasket is for.
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2023
    Deuces likes this.
  6. 51504bat
    Joined: May 22, 2010
    Posts: 5,670

    51504bat
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Intake is a stock Ford 2 barrel cast iron. Intake gaskets are Mahle composite. Pan rail gaskets are cork. Engine is a basically stock 302 with a so called Police or Taxi cam.
     
    Deuces likes this.

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