Looking at the Smeding 363 Cruiser for my 34. It's smaller than the SBC's, and has the distributor in front rather than at the rear. Anyone have any experience with this or any other Smeding Performance engine?
Are you thinking a small block Ford engine will fit easier than the SBC? They usually require more room front to back. The water pump stuff is what takes the extra space. You need to be measuring complete assemblies, not just short blocks.
Yes, I was. Isn't there a short water pump available? I don't want another flat head, which engine would fit the best: 302, 327, 350, 383, 427 ? Any other suggestions?
The Selection of oil pans, and water pumps and front drive systems is better than it ever has been for the small block Ford. A 363 is built with an aftermarket block capable of handling a 1000 hp all while weighing less than a sbc. It’s not 1975 anymore the rubber stamp that the sbc is easier is just bs. Maybe it’s the lazy way out, put a Ford in a Ford.
I know I can't be the only guy that just 'passes-right-on-by' when I see a Chevy in a Ford.... I know-I know ..."been putt'in Shivel-lay mowdersin in old Fords for years"!! A Ford in a Ford deserves a second and sometimes a third look when cruis'in the cruise-ins. BUT........lotsa guys shove a Shivel-lay in 'um because "that's just what they do"... Go the extra and put a SBF in one of Henry's masterpieces! 6sally6 EDIT...........I like the SBF for no other reason than the distributor is in the front and VERY conveinent !! (Gosh I hate laying across a hot engine trying to "fiddle-with" the SBC distributor.) I guess that's NOT a real issue with an open engine compartment like you have..... 6s6
Hey I’m all for doing something different too, but I think the OP was trying to fit an engine that didn’t require much cutting of the firewall.
Unfortunately the SBF as a swap is not really viable for a traditional (hamb era) rod or custom - it's more street rod era.....I know the 221 came out in '61 followed by the 260 and finally the 289 but there just wasn't many available prior to' 64 in the junkyards - caddys and olds had been around since '49 chevys 55 - this is also supported by the fact that adapters and mounts were scarce/unavailable during "our" era.....a y block I can understand - even an fe - they were of course used, but not nearly as much as the others.....I've got nothing against a SBF - just not in the era of car we tend to focus on here - I know there is likely an example of two of traditional SBF rods.....but really not the norm As for no chevys in fords - that's your business - but for many that were there it was the cheapest and easiest way to improve performance and that's what it "was" all about
Smeding makes a fantastic little performance engine, but some might say the small block Ford is....unattractive. And, it gets a bit long in the front with a water pump sticking out a foot past the block for no reason. They will fit in a '34 Ford, so if you like it, do it and make sure to post lots of pics. -Abone.
Thank you all for taking the time to respond. Please help clarify something I don't understand. Are there boundaries within what is considered, "traditional", and am I asking my questions on the wrong forum? When I acquired this car, about 8 years ago, I was simply looking for original, 1934 Henry Ford steel parts to build what I thought was called a hot rod. I was going to use a TCI frame, a "Mighty Mouse" 427, and probably fender-less. You can go back to the original post, but basically, because of what I had found - I went the "traditional" route. Here's a brief recap of the last 7 or 8 years: The car was taken to Vern Tardel where it was completely disassembled, clean up, and reassembled. Any worn or broken parts were replaced with original 1934 parts - hoses, lines, other rubber components being the exception. Upholstery was also replaced. The engine, flathead, lasted two days and was replaced, to remain "traditional", with a Super-Stroker from H&H. We drove the car and absolutely loved it. It was however somewhat problematic and limited because the threat of over-heat was always present. On the open road - no problem, but in town, heavy traffic, or a series of ill-timed stoplights, and it was - pull over and wait for a cool down. To be honest and fair, I was most recently in the process of having a larger capacity radiator installed as well as a shroud and an electric fan. Had this latest engine problem not occurred, that would have been the route taken. The engine issue and several other factors have me reconsidering my original plan. Shortly after the car was completed, at Vern's suggestion, I entered the car in a "Car Show" where it drew a lot of attention. What struck me as odd though was, the winning car was a complete, totally fake, reproduction from the frame to body. Secondly, and more recent, to appease the "traditionalists" who made their case to preserve the car, I posted it for sale. There were two responses, neither of which went beyond requests for more pictures. Which brings me to the point I am now: I don't want to go with another flathead I want something safe, dependable, and fun to drive I want to maintain the rumble seat If I'm going more power, I'm going stronger frame and better brakes I'd like to minimize cutting - but, I'm prepared to do what it takes I have no plans of attending another car show, and at 72 - I don't care if anyone likes my car So - based on what I'm hearing from you guys: Water pump - fan - radiator fitment is critical, and I would assume an absolute - I'm not going to make the car longer. Firewall will most likely need to be cut. I've not seen any remarks regarding the hood, will everything fit inside? Finally, should I be asking these questions on a different forum or website? Thank you in advance for your consideration.
Asking a yes/no question/opinion on the HAMB will get you at least 4 different on topic answers, a couple of sub arguments and a bunch of responses that were not relared to the original question. But, that's part of the "bench racing" process here. If I were in your shoes, looking for the easiest, least costly, least harmful (to the car) way to get back on the road and having fun... I'd be installing a 350 SBC...probably a near stock 300(ish) hp crate motor with an engine driven real fan and shroud. That will feel plenty quick compared to the flatty you had. It will be the least taxing on the cooling system (500 hp stroker motors...do make heat as well as hp). I would dress it up to look traditional and clean...and I would drive the hell out of the car. You can always keep the hood closed at events and ignore the Chevy in a Ford naysayers. Good luck with your roadster project.
I know the late Pat Ganahl's '34 is a crew cab sedan...but to me, it's a great example of how to build a '34 that sits right, looks great, is likely a pleasure to drive and pretty much checks all of the boxes. Here's a link to the build thread on the car. I did notice that he modified the firewall to provide additional clearance for the SBC. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/paging-pgan-build-thread-for-the-sedan.1084973/ Again, I really like your roadster and hope you're able to get back on the road to enjoying it.
I put a 231 V-6 Buick in a Model A. Good performance, clocked at over 100 MPH, gets good gas mileage, won't have to touch the firewall using the same stock accessories, sounds different that everybody else's hot rod, mine's never got close to overheating. Yes, it's not like all the rest -- not a bad thing.
I have been running a Smeding 383 in 39 Ford for over 10 yrs . It is 360 hp and 400+ lbs of touqe engine that is not babied. It has held up well. I Don't think you could go wrong either a sbf or sbc from them.
Thanks guys for all the info. What I'm hearing is the length of whichever engine I choose, SBC or SBF, is the issue. For the Ford Flat head V8 I have Ht 26.0", Lgth 30.0", Wth 24.0", Wt 500lbs. The lengths given for the SBC and SBF are are in the 27" range, so it would seem they are shorter; is the water pump/fan not included in that measurement? Before selecting an engine, unless I can find a station diagram, I plan to pull the body from the frame and do my own. If any of you know where I can obtain a station diagram, please let me know; it will certainly cut down on all the guessing. Thank you in advance.