I finally finished fixing the broken rocker stud, welded up the slot on the duraspark dist. to adjust my curve, replaced the intake with an air gap etc.. Test drove it. Was running damn good, scary at times I was getting on it banging gears, not to hard though, its still has less than 100 miles on it. Last time I got on it, nailed it in first, shifted to 2nd nailed it and white smoke like crazy coming from engine. I have the hood off so I saw it really good. Pulled over got out and look, no more smoke and engine was running OK. Drove gently back home and parked it had somewhere to go. Seemed to run just fine, nothing unusual at all. Havent gotten to play with it yet, but what is weird is that it seems to run/idle fine, doesnt smoke. Oil is full (actually a tad over full). There is NO oil ON the egnine, valve cover, headers, etc...Its clean everywhere. The only thing I saw is this splatter (which appeared to be oil) on the firewall and fenderwell. The engine and all other parts in the bay are CLEAN. WTF?? My best guess is something spewed and burned off causing the smoke. I also installed a homemade baffle inside the drive valve cover a while back because I was getting some oil spray from the breather in the valve cover. I checked the breather in the VC when this happened, its clean as a whistle as I expect it to be. Could this just be PCV valve bad or not enough ventilation caused it to spew? Is a stock 302 PCV valve sufficient for this stroker motor? I read some others used a PCV made for the old ford big blocks 427 etc, I may pick one of them up for $3, what can it hurt. I cant figure out where the heck it came from.
Engine smoke from engine compartment or from exhaust? Spatter could come from brake/clutch fittings, blown around by air from fan. More info needed...
Smoke was from engine bay. It was a big cloud of white smoke, right in my face (windshield). It was enough that I briefly couldnt see through it, then **** it was all gone. I have a hyd. clutch and checked that and the lines, and checked around the master cyl. The master cyl looks like it could have been a suspect but the clutch showed no obvious signs of leaking anything. Although I havent fine tooth combed the lines and fittings yet. The area of the splatter and the lack of any splatter on the engine parts indicated to me it might be the master or clutch master/lines . The clutch reservoir only holds a few ounces and its still full as I remember it being. I was clutching about at the same time it happened, obviously wasnt using the brake though. So would it take much fluid hitting hot headers to cause that much smoke?
I dont think the belt could hit anything... Maybe something got slung from the belt or pulleys though?? This is what it looks like inside there right now I see your from memphis, me to..well live in T county, work in good ol' memphis though
Is there any chance that it was something in the road that you ran over and splattered up onto the exhaust causing the smoke ? Seeing you can't find any leaks or anything like that , it would seem like a foreign liquid was thrown up under the car on the exhaust . Just a thought ! Jim
Yeah just dont know. I am going to look over everything real good when I get home and try to find any clue. if I find nothing, give it a light test drive and see how she runs and go from there. Is there anything I should check other than the obvious, to be sure I dont have an engine problem and make it worse driving it again? I know it has oil and good oil pressure. Radiator is 90% full, going to top off before running again. It wasnt full when driven the other day either, ran out refilling it from last radiator removal. Brake and clutch reservoirs are full.
My dog's name is Memphis. Can he be part of the club? Seriously, work the clutch and brake a few times and check for dampness around the fittings. If they are dry, get back in it and drive until it does the same thing again. Then pull off the road and check for signs of leakage immediately, especially around the clutch fluid line. And, look for burnt discoloration on your headers. There's a leak there somewhere, you just need to find it. Good luck!
As I sit here wondering what went wrong as I look at that picture where you have a hard line that's coupled to a braided line , I am getting a feeling that the vibration from the braided line is somehow moving a little on the hard line where the flange is not seating good and it sprayed the fluid out there . Double check that coupler and see if that moves from side to side a little where the hard line is coupled . The flange might have leaked from a slight movement then resealed . With the braided , heavier line , it might be putting a strain on that coupler . Double check to see if its tight . I am ***uming you made that flange . It's just a feeling I have that it's your problem right there at that coupler . Jim
Thanks guys, will do as you said. Didnt get a chance last night. Jim I actually didnt make that flange on the hard line, I bought a longacre clutch line kit which came with the flex line and hard line. Listening to yall and thinking about it, I really think the clutch is suspect to because its in the perfect area to cause that splatter and I was clutching at the time it happened. Oh and Missydad, I would rather have a dog name memphis than actually live in memphis, so your doing OK . Yes, he can join.
I dont follow chevys, I p*** them I dont have an overflow tank on it, but I do have a tube, which was dry at the scene, checked that right after it happened wondering the same.
just adding to retrojims comment about the clutch line. Where you have the braided line joined to the hard line you need to add a support to secure the end of the hard line. If you don't the vibrations will "work harden" the hard line and it will eventually break or split.
I didnt get time to mess with it last night, OK truth be told NFL football started last night But while grabbing another cold one from the shop I did feel around the clutch line at the fittings between the hard and flex line, and I got a little fluid on my fingers from it. I really think thats it, but still need to check it all out. 4t6ford, what do you suggest for that? You mean something on the line to keep the 2 lines married?
Not to hijack the above post, but you can come up from the steering column clamp bolt with a very simple bracket to support the steel line at the fitting. A bracket could also be attached at a number of other places to do the same thing. You could also run a new steel line down the firewall, shaped artfully around the obstructions, to join with the flex line where the ****** tunnel begins. The object of the excersize is to keep the steel line from vibrating, as was mentioned above. This won't fix the leak you've got, but it will prevent the steel line from failing in the future. Okay, hijack over. Apologies extended. Onward and upward.
That's what I was saying . From the vibration from the engine moving , it will loosen up the flange in the coupler and leak . I would make a simple bracket like what holds the oil tube on the side pan style that wraps around the tube the is bolted to someting to secure it just like the oil stick does . Just something to secure the heavier braided line . Well maybe I was looking at it the right way after all , if you felt some fluid under the fittings . Try to see if you can get them a little tighter . Jim
As a quick follow-up, perhaps it would pay to inspect the flare in the clutch line for cracks. I've managed to crack 'em when making flares more times than I care to count. True confessions...
As mentioned above already , a simple bracket to hold the steel line secure positioned as close as possible to the union with the braided line. Even a strip of panel steel 1/2 inch wide folded over the steel line onto itself with a 3/16 ish hole at the end (bend the end to a right angle) and secure it through the steel column surround behind the line. .
Another point, in your photo it looks like on your clutch master cylinder you are using a remote resorvior (sp!) with a rubber line connecting the two ? You need to check what type of rubber the is, it needs to be a nitrile based rubber - if its just a lump of ordinary old rubber hose it will deteriorate with brake fluid in it . .
3 good points here ive had problems with myself . i myself dont try to flare anymore . its amazing to me to see a double flare that aint craked . i realized some people can not flare its an art . im one . and proper brake fluid resistant hose . this stuff is is sesative to non brake fluid . as in it will swell up if another kind is ever mixed in it . and i agree. the hard metal line needs to be mounter like a brake line . the flex part is made to flex the hard line and fittings are not .
Ok, this is NOT over yet. I havent been able to play much, but I checked the following: - All fittings tight on the clutch lines - Header bolts all tight - Valve cover bolts all tight (one was finger loose) Took for a test drive, still happens. BUT, its not happening when I clutch or brake, it only happens when I hammer the throttle. I drove it around 10 miles or so and it was fine. Decided to get on it, ****...white smoke right when I nailed it. Stopped and looked it sprayed on the fender again....I drove around some more nice and easy shifting gears, no problems. After a while I nailed it again, ****...smoke. It ONLY happens when I really hit the throttle...WTF??? I do (and have prior to this problem) see oil around a couple of my head bolts. If you shine a light around the valve cover and gasket its shiny/wet looking, i ran my finger around it and its a little oily. I wonder if its spraying out the valve cover
****fire , finally know what it is! I had plugged off the dipstick hole in the side of the block when I put the engine in since I switched timing covers and used the dipstick there. I just ran out there and checked and sure nuff the wooden dowel I plugged the hole with came out. So its just an open hole there for oil to spray out...Man it was driving me crazy!
Yay, good thing it was only something as minor. Gotta love that CRS especially when it happens to someone younger than me
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