Just completed the design, fabrication, build and installation of my rear transmission mount for my Tremec TKO ******. The frame is a custom 34 Ford frame that I've been building for the last 1.5 years (I know - too damn long!). The engine is a 392 Hemi, setback 4+ inches, Sonic bell housing and a Tremec 5 speed. 1) Basic Fabrication Ideas: I wanted to use the Pete & Jakes MicroFlex bushings, which does make things a bit more exact in that with bushing style mounts, you need to know exactly where you want them (especially front to rear) - there isn't any room to play. 2) I made the side mounts initially by hand - to prototype, then designed them out in CAD, had David Vette (CadillacCoffin) laser cut them for me, etc.. 3) The side mounts are made of 3/16 steel, are welded to 6" or so vertical tubes (1" x 2" x .125 steel) that are welded inside the frame rails. Notice that the mounts align with the short strengthening cross-member pieces that tie the X-Member sides to the outer frame rails and boxing plates. 4) The removable transmission cross member is made of a piece of 1" x 2" x .125 steel (about 12" long), that bolts up to the bottom of the ******, with mounting "ears" fore and aft to pickup either side of the Micro-flex bushings. Drilling the cross-bolt holes is always a ***** - in that they need to be in exactly the right place. I used blue "die-chem" on the inside of the rabbit-ear tabs, mocked everything up in place (at the right height), then scribed the bushing diameter location for the REAR tab. Then I took the mount out and drilled only the rear 1/2" bolt hole. Then I mounted the transmission cross-member back in the frame and inserted a special 1/2" drill bushing that I made - with a 5/16 drill hole in the middle - it goes through the MicroFlex bushing and gives me a way to drill the front tab. The bushing aligns with one set of tabs - as you place the drill bushing "pin" (where the bolt would go) to keep things in place while you drill through the centerline of the bushing to pickup the other tab. This guarantees that the holes are aligned with the bushing centerline - as your'e using the 1/2" drill bushing as a guide pin. This is a much better method than "drill and pray"! 5) Overall Impressions: It was great to mount the frame in my frame jig UPSIDE DOWN - so I could do all the mount fabrication work standing up and about waist high. I had previously mocked the frame, engine, ****** and ride height outside the jig - so I knew where everything needed to line up. The frame jig was designed to be strong enough to support the total weight. This is the first time I've ever tried to mount the engine/transmission package in a frame while on the jig - really made a nice working environment. I'd highly recommend it if you have a jig that rotates! Anyway, here yah go:
You have a whole lot of heft in that X member, but hardly anything tying one side to the other. Are you going to build a "top" to attach one half of the X to the other half? Something that will make the concept of the X actually work like Henry thought it should?
Yes - I'm working on a plate (kind of like a skid plate) on the bottom that will tie the two sides together. Trying to not make it too fugly . . It will be out of 3/16 steel - runs the length of that last straight section on either side of the ******. I'm very sensitive to ground clearance, so it will be hand rolled/bent to clear the bottom of the ****** by about an inch. It will be about 8" in width in the section that p***es over the front of the ****** (covers from front of the ****** to the tail-section seam) - and will taper back to cover the whole length of each side (about 13"). I wanted something to tie the two sides together - which is important. I'll post some updated pictures once I get it completed (couple weeks out).
I love your jig, and yep, REALLY helps the build process & quality by having clear/practical access to what you're trying to do. Now....the jig looks strong, but how about those casters....I appreciate that there's a number of them carrying the load, but are they up to the task? Great fab, great thread, keep at it, look forward to seeing that car kicking ****. Cheers, Drewfus
The casters are steel and rated at 600 lbs each . . . since they're most likely made in China, probably worth about 300 lbs each I should be okay - and I'll keep my damn feet out from under them (now that you have me thinking!)
Real nice, looks to carry on with the style of your motor mounts... Should make pulling the ****** easier, can't see any down side...can I use it!!!
Super sano work Dale - great to see the progress !! This is gonna be one *****in ride when you're done....keep em comin' ! Rat
I share everything - the good, bad and the ugly. So many guys have helped me, if anything I do helps another . . . that is great. I'm just learning as I go - hoping to get better along the way. I saw your blown Desoto on your post - now that is cool! Much appreciate the compliments, the critique and help from the HAMB -- it makes it worthwhile putting together these posts. I've found the more you do this stuff (taking your time as you go and not cutting too many corners), the easier it gets. It just takes so damn much time (as least for me, cause I'm slow!).
just went thru and read your other threads on this build. VERY NICE!!! good to see some nice werk getting done in the buckeye
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