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So I've decided to run with a spring behind the axle setup...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Devin, Mar 12, 2005.

  1. Devin
    Joined: Dec 28, 2004
    Posts: 2,433

    Devin
    Member
    from Napa, CA

    I already have a mid 40's axle that I'd like to use on my A frame. It looks cool and will save some dough. I've done a couple of searches and have come up with some great info, but I still have a lingering question.

    I'm planning on using some Heim joints that I already have a the the end of the wishbones. Will there be too much lateral movement in the front end? Does anyone recommend running a panhard bar up front? Any other safety related concerns I should be aware about?

    Thanks in advance
     
  2. Unkl Ian
    Joined: Mar 29, 2001
    Posts: 13,509

    Unkl Ian

    A panhard bar is a good idea ,especially with cross steering.





     
  3. AHotRod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2001
    Posts: 12,342

    AHotRod
    Member

    If you run a "dead-perch" on one end of the cross spring, and panhard bar will not be required.

    Otherwise, YES as alreadt stated....
     
  4. Devin
    Joined: Dec 28, 2004
    Posts: 2,433

    Devin
    Member
    from Napa, CA

    pardon my ignorance, but what exactly is a dead perch?
     
  5. A dead perch is a spring perch that has the shackle built in. The shackle part doesnt move like on a normal "live" perch. It works to control side movement like a panhard bar. The other side of the spring uses a normal shackle and perch. You can make one or buy a version from the Deuce Factory.

    As for the Heims, they are harsh compared to urethane rod ends or tie rod ends. They can also wear excessively on the street. If you run them, at the very least run a large washer on the outside to "capture" the end in the event of failure.
     
  6. loogy
    Joined: Mar 6, 2004
    Posts: 1,239

    loogy
    Member

  7. racer5c
    Joined: Nov 30, 2002
    Posts: 2,218

    racer5c
    Member

    here is a dead perch
     
  8. Rand Man
    Joined: Aug 23, 2004
    Posts: 5,396

    Rand Man
    Member

    That's a good idea.
     
  9. Nimrod
    Joined: Dec 13, 2003
    Posts: 856

    Nimrod
    Member


    That looks like a trout.
     
  10. Devin
    Joined: Dec 28, 2004
    Posts: 2,433

    Devin
    Member
    from Napa, CA

    I hear that trout works as well as Perch.

    Thanks, the dead perch looks like a much cleaner installation. Are there any drawbacks? Also, with regards to urethane bushed rod ends, I noticed that some have offset angles versus a tie rod end that is moveable. Which is the preferred end? Last question: Do I want my wishbones running parallel to the ground or parallel to the frame rails?
     
  11. curbspeed
    Joined: Feb 7, 2002
    Posts: 4,917

    curbspeed
    Member

    I would stay away from the Heim ends. Use tie rod ends. They are strong and most importantly, they look right. Wishbone should be parallel with the ground for the proper look. My 2 cents for what it's worth.
     
  12. All those are loaded questions that the answer will vary depending on your frame setup.

    Rod ends, I used straight ones on my touring and a couple other setups, I ANGLED the mounting bung on the frame. That is, I happened to use thickwall DOM that the mounting bolt ran all the way through. The DOM is welded into the frame at an angle so the rod end doesnt bind. I like the urethane rode ends Pete and Jakes. Most on the HAMB will guide you to traditional tie rod ends, either will work, the tie rod as you noted will allow for some mis-alingment.

    As for your bones, you need to worry about caster first. Then see where the bone hits in relation to the frame rail. Mine hit right in the center of the rail. On some cars, you will find that the bones end up several inches BELOW the rail. In odd cases, the bone will hit above. Look at some of the cl***ic cars from history that run bones, most look good with them parrallel to the ground or running dowhill slightly to the rear.

    If your bones are not hitting where you want them, you can take a pie-cut like slice out behind the front forged yoke and re-weld. Think of the Bleed sweep only done on bones. If you cut from the top down, this will allow the rear of the bone to mount higher than when it was uncut.
     
  13. Devin
    Joined: Dec 28, 2004
    Posts: 2,433

    Devin
    Member
    from Napa, CA

    exactly what I needed to know. Thanks guys.
     
  14. attitudor
    Joined: Sep 28, 2004
    Posts: 3,134

    attitudor
    Member
    from Finland

    Some talk about safety here...?
     

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