Two years ago I set out to rebuild a virgin 59a block and decided I should build something to put it in. So after years of swap meets and horse trades I've piled up enough parts to start a build from the ground up; probably the hard way but parts should look better on a truck rather than on the shelf. The plan is to build a pretty cookie cutter 26-27' T on A rails a la vern tardel "how to build a tradional ford hotrod" , nothing earth shattering but it should be fun to scoot around town. I'd like to keep it to a 50's or earlier parts vintage. Parts I have 59a engine 39 trans f1 crossmember f1 gear box and column dropped A axle split bones 40' bells v8 quick change 26-27' touring front half and T p/u bed. 36-39' wide 5 wheels/hubs The engine being rebuilt still isn't done but I plan on using a smokey but running 40' 221ci I freshend up over the winter for mock up. Dropped off a pile of parts at "alpha container service" yesterday for blasting and he was able to have it done for pick up today. Starting this evening getting it all in primer. If anyone needs hard parts blasted in Kansas City I can't reccomend anyone more qualified for the price.
That was actually my thought! Might try to use the clevis as a mount for a small fog light or a flat horn.
Small update, lots of head scratching. Squared and evened up the ends of the model a radius rods, not a fan of how short they are but they fit my axle not sure how the later model V8 rods would mate to the the dropped A axle. I clipped the shock mounts and brake tabs from the A spring perches, rebushed the spring and perches. The axle im using seems to have 0° caster putting a angle finder on it I couldn't see any difference; maybe it dosent matter which side faces out? The front cross member I'm using is a speedway 32' type which was sold as having 6° built in to the stamping. Seems like my radius rods plates will really be hanging low, currently they are pushed up flush with the top of the frame so I could clamp them in place. I'd like to mount them inboard on the frame to allow for alittle more turning radius. Maybe once the weight of the engine is on the spring it won't be so wonky.
Looks like a fun project! You might try disassembling your front spring and use only the main leaf with spacers above to simulate the thickness of the spring stack in the crossmember. This will make it easier to load the spring so you can simulate your target ride height. Figure out where you want the rear of your bones to be...and clamp them in that location. Now you can measure your caster...you may need to wedge cut and re-weld the front of your bones to achieve the desired angle.
I figured some wedge cuts where in my future. Going to try and get an engine and trans set in it soon before I start welding anything in place. Still figuring out my order of operations.
I have two F1 cross members thinking I'll use the one with a torched out trans mount modifying it to use biscuit type mounts instead of the saddle type. Was also able to sell a speedway T bucket frame that's been hanging around freeing up alittle cash for parts.
Back on it after a short break. Drove route 66 to California and back. Picked up some ford transmissions along the way. Brought my mock up engine to the work space and set it between the rails to get an idea of fitment. Contemplating how far forward I want it to sit seems alittle close to the front cross member but trying to run a crank driven fan sets it back futher than I would like.
Had some friends drop by the garage and we whittled down the speedway motor mounts. The mounts will be bolted to the factory shock mount holes. Didn't like the way they splayed out so some relief cuts where made on the inside to narrow them. Before I burn them in I'm going to mount the radiator and see what my lower hoses will look like. If I like where the engine sits the 39/40' crank pulley needs the fan mount flange turned off to allow room for belt installation.
Whittled down some damaged model A bells for the spring hangers this evening, picked up a 40' ford axle I bought a year ago it will be the donor for the QC. Found some other treasures while I was out. A mid size Beverly shear was the big prize today.
Way cool project. Two things i have noticed, 1/ the front bones look upside down (unless thats a Model A thing) and 2/ the springs main leaf is too long as the angle of shackles now is the angle you want when all the weight is on it. also did you reverse the main leaf, if so it makes the eyes about 1'' further apart. JW
Your body is sitting a bit further back than mine (necessary of course for the V8). Are you going to set the rear end back to get the axle to line up with the arch on the bed? Interested to see what you cook up there.
I’m assuming the body is set back to make it easier to drop the motor down. I’m sure he’ll shove it forward some when it’s more than just resting there. the front leaf pack doesn’t look like it’s all the way to 45. I’ve seen brand new leaf packs go into the car with no weight right there or closer to 45 and with weight it’s still sitting at 45, I wouldn’t be concerned until it’s a full car and see where it’s at. that being said said it looks like all the weight is still sitting on the axle which is resting on your jack stands. I’m sure a grill shell and radiator, a pair of head lights isn’t going to weight down the front of the car another 300 pounds. That engine is most of the weight that front suspension will ever see. keep on truckin man!
The body isn't bolted down its just setting on the frame for now, my body placement will be based off centering the wheel arch to the axle.
The bones are correct, or at least how my other model A is without split bones. The spring has reversed eyes but carries the same arch as before, I haven't ever had any issues reversing the eyes on early fords?
It very well may be, I am not welding the mounts in until I have the radiator mocked up. That being said it seems the measurement of 3" from rear of crossmember to center of motor mount is most people's sweet spot for flat head mounts on AV8's.
The radiator sites over the front axle and crossmember. Are you going to run that distributor or a crab style as that may make a difference. This is a quick sketch on how the spring eyes move out when the arch is reversed. JW
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