Yup-read through a lot of posts, and still need a procedure for adjusting my solid lifters in my rebuilt 283. So let's list some facts first.... I did not build this motor. Bought it as a 327, but checked the crank numbers and its a 283 number. There are No identifying numbers on the motor itself. Pulled the intake, and they are solid lifters. No clips in them. I do not know the piston bore size, but can see 0.30 stamped on the pistons. I have no idea what cam is in it. I would say I don't know ****! But I guess what I AM asking is....... Is there a ball park cold adjustment procedure that won't make my head spin when explained to me?????
If you look in any Chilton's or Motors manual, it will give you a rundown of what rockers to adjust when the engine is in TDC, no. 1 cyl firing, and then the rest in TDC no. 6 cyl firing. You only have to turn the engine over twice to do it this way. The other way is to adjust the rocker on one cyl when the other is open. Takes longer to do, but you can do it without a manual. Is that what you meant? Or a 'how to' adjust solids procedure? Or what clearance to adjust it to? The clearance is dictated by the cam manufacturer. The loosest I've seen a solid is 30-30, the famous Duntov grind. But on most cams the intake is tighter than the exhaust, due to the heat on the exhaust valve. If you really can't ID the cam, you probably can't go wrong with keeping it on the loose side, say .020 on the intake and .026 on the exhaust. Running the valves a bit too loose may make it a bit noisier, but it will also give you a bit more bottom end power. Tightening them up will give a hair more top end. To adjust, just pick the proper feeler gauge, and slide it in between the rocker and the valve, tighten the adjuster nut until you get a little "drag" on the gauge when moving it in and out. That's all there is, but it does take a bit of experience getting the "feel" of the proper amount of drag on the gauge.
Did you get the crank numbers with the oil pan off? If so maybe you can get some numbers off the cam. If it's a GM cam the numbers are cast toward the front between the lobs. With a 283 crank it could be a 327 block making it a 301. What marking are on the front of the heads or number cast on head between rockers? You really need to identify the cam for lots of reasons. Can you see if the Pistons are flat or have a raised dome? This is a good way to adjust both of GM cams. It's the way I adjust my 30-30. Ron http://65corvette.nonethewiser.net/technical/VlvAdjArticle.pdf
Just check the 30-30 GM cam I have 3849 then on the other side of the lob 346. Not enough room between lobs for complete number 3849346. Ron
Whenever I get an unknown SBC solid to adjust I use this. It's a good starting point if not right on. http://65corvette.nonethewiser.net/technical/VlvAdjArticle.pdf
I just got a ride with a big block Ford with solid lifters and no details on motor, like which cam. so, went through measured the valve lash on all. then used the common meaurements to set all equal. did that cold. that way everything will be a proper starting point. before setting hot I will need to find a pair of old 390 valve covers and cut part of the tops off to be able to set valve lash and minimumize the oil mess. on small Chevrolet having a set of valve covers with upper section cut off is a good idea too. you can also use rocker arm deflector clips to help control the oil mess when adjusting hot.
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