Ok got some new pictures today... But got a few problems.. I have spent this weekend scraping the insulation,carpet, tar off the floor of this 48 chevy.. I found a nice rust hole right by the pedals.. That seems like a easy fix untill i bolted the passenger door back on.. Seems like the car got hit and wasnt fixed right.. the door doesnt even come close to fit the rockers The fenders i have look like shit specialy the front right side... Its all lumped up but atleast its not rusted.. Ill see if i can hammer it back together... After taking out the front suspension from the weeds,, i finally know ill need a new front end.. This one is totally shot... Its probably worth it for scrap but its shot for this ride... Ok heres a few shots... You judge.
last one..Best i could do for 20 degrees and with out a heat gun.. ill scrap off the little bits when it gets warmer steve-
This week im heading to the junk yard for some parts,,, any one know what kind of front end would slip under that frame with not mutch fitting or cutting? From 80s-2000s cars?
Chevy Celebrity and it's GM corporate cousins (Pontiac 6000, Buick Century and Olds Calais). Plentifull and dirt cheap, if not "haul-it-away-and-it's-YOURS" FREE!!! The motor and transaxle mount to a cradle that bolts into these cars. Either gonna be a 2.5 Tech-4 or a 2.8 V6 in earlier ones, some late ones will have EFI Buick V6s, 3.1 Chevy V6s or the EFI 2.5. You'll need to construct a "shock hoop" type of thing to support the original front struts, and the cradle will need to be grafted to your stock frame. The good news is that you can Z the front end and get it sick-ass low without worrying about your driveshaft...cause there won't BE any driveshaft!! Steering is rack and pinion, and your whole drivetrain bolts into the cradle. You will also need to fab up a radiator mount with a provision for the "dog-bone" or "torque shock" to make this work right...but it IS at least possible! I'd run Moon discs to hide the funky offset on the FWD wheels, but the track width is damn near perfect and you can drag the stock rear axle around until you feel like swapping something else in it's place! This would be a weird-as-hell, but pretty low buck way to get that monster snake-killer low and get disc brakes, rack and pinion steering, a modern drivetrain and strut front suspension all in one convenient, probably close to FREE package!!! (No, really...I'm only HALF joking...I considered this myself, briefly!! ) I'd STILL do that before I'd monkey with small block Chevy and Mustang II swaps!! Just think about it!!!
Ill think about it when im digging under neath POS's to see what their set ups are... Thanks hack. steve-
Pinto -Must II frt end is an easy deal on the 41-48 coupe. also a smallblock chevy auto trans and a nova rear is easy- a little more mainstream........... also the same years coupe you have was famous for lousy panel fit. the doors would fit decent if the rocker moulding was on there. but they really did not excel in the "fit" area on any of the body peices.......Ive built several and all were alike in that way.
I believe Chassis Engineering in West Branch, Iowa sells a bolt-in kit to adapt an MII...RB's Obsolete sells a complete BOLT-IN suspension, including disc brakes and steering. If you're into doing a sub-frame, go for a '68-72 Nova or Camaro...the width is 59 1/2"...and you won't have your wheels/tires hanging outside the fenders with one of these subs... My brother owns a '47 Chev Aerosedan...body parts such as doors, trunk didn't/ doesn't fit all that good-FROM the factory...and his had never been wrecked!!! R-
I dont think it was a totaled car,, may be just a fender bender type of a deal...This is going to be a low buck rod... so a mustang 2 is out of the question.. If you followed up from my old pictures,, the suspension i have right now is a mustang 2 original out of (a boss?) and i do have a rear right now(10 bolt posi). I think it does measure 59 or 58 1/2 and im hopefully getting a 350 for cheep from a friend... The motor has a few miles (125,000) but right now i just want something i can drive and forget about HP. im not sure what im going to do about the rear suspension,, if im going to leave the stock leaf springs or go for something like bags (which cost money that i dont have) The goal is a drive able beater/sled for under 1000-1500.. Thanks all for the response- steve
Subframe it. I built a 41 chevy, ran a 78 camaro subframe under it. Sold it recently, and the guy that bought it said he has oqned over 50 rods, and it was the best steering/stopping car he has ever had. Never drove a must II front end chevy that really drove good at highway speed. You will be happy with this front end, and it isnt hard to do at all. Good luck....Scott
I ran 15x6 chevy rally wheels under mine in the front, and thet cleared. For the rear I ran stock spring, cut a box out near front of spring, mounted spring up inside frame(for lower stance) 2 inch lowering blocks, and this car rode like a champ. ran s-10 shocks on rear, welded top mount to frame, ran a 70 firebird rear with 15x8 vette rally wheels with 2 inch wider fender(they were glass, but they are easy to widen if ya got decent metal ones. A vw gas tank under rear trunk floor, older type with filler built on tank, easy trunk fill. In my opinion, look for a 42 dash trim, looks alot nicer than the other 41-48 dash trim. Looks like ya have a nice body to start with, and on that fender, looks lot better than what I started with, they all have that damaged lip on them, and its still better than doing alot of rust repair.....Scott
I did what toqwik did with good results. Remember..., spend less money = more time hammering, welding, and grinding...!
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