Some of you will hate me for this. But need help with T Roadster for my Dad.

Hey guys. Well my Dad whome I love very much turned 70 yesterday. He bought himself a very nice little 27 ford roadster. It of course has not ran in years, but I think it prolly would. Here is the problem, he is 70 and has only one leg. He reely wants to update the motor and trans to a 2.3/C3 automatic set up, and change to a Banjo style rear with an open drive. The banjo is so it at least has the appearance of the original rear. He wants to reatain the original front end. I dont know enough about the original T front end to know if its possible to run 21" model A wheels in the front, and if the berrings front end will take 45-55mph speeds. I want to retain as much of the original look as possible, save the motor and trans. And please understand he just cant physically drive the original motor and trans set up. Plus this will prolly be drivin a LOT by him to town. I figure that we can run Disk brakes on the rear, or at least drums, so as to retain the original front axle and steering. I know this is not traditional, but he wants this reeeely bad, and I want to do this for him, he has done so much for me!

Any help on wheels, hub, rear end, or other tips would be appreciated.

 

Check out: http://www.tperformance.com/

Great source for everything T

 

I think the thing I have the most questions about are. I have a set of four 21" A wheels with new tires. The 26 T has wooden wheels and hubs. How do I put the A wheels on the T spindles? I founf the snyders $300.00 a piece " what a JOKE" hubs. Wire wheel hubs came on what year T? And whats the bolt pattern?

 

I would replace the "T" axle with an "A" axle, this will make your mods a lot easier. There's nothing wrong with a "T" axle, but you're essentially building a rod anyways, so why not? Running the "A" will make it easier to give him hydraulic brakes also, something he'll definitely appreciate.

I have both my legs but the left one is pretty much useless, so I can commiserate with your Pops!

 

I can't help you much on the front wheel Q's but I applaud his decision for the 2.3 and auto. I'm doing that same set up in a 29 RPU for a guy a few years older than your pop. But I am going with dual side draft Weber carbs to HOT ROD it a bit more

 

Yes Sir, I accually have a dual IDF intake, Ive had for years. I do have an extra Stock A axle, but I'd have to find the wishbone set up as well... Hell I guess its all basically the same deseign. I'll keep my eye open for the a set of unsplit wish'ies. I assume I will have to run the A spring as well? Wow, I just gotta go diggn through the fields again. Gots to find a good turning banjo, with uncut Wish bones. Hell, I wonder if we should just find a Model A rolling chassis... LOL and switch it all over. But the running board and all that crap wont fit.

 

JTW, I know you're not necessarily looking for this info, but it will come in handy when you're finished. On most 'T's, the only serial number is on the left side of the engine block. I believe Ford started stamping that number on the frame as well in '26 or '27. Make sure you find that frame stamping before doing the engine swap. Even if you have a title, if the frame isn't stamped (and the frame could have been swapped), DO NOT SELL THE ENGINE. That is your VIN number. Put it in the corner of the garage and sell it with the car if that time comes. I would also stamp the frame with that engine number if you don't find it. And make sure that engine number matches your title. All of this is to save you grief and aggrevation if the car is damage or otherwise impounded (I don't know why, but it can happen...). Never know when the boys in blue want to check the VIN vs the registration, and I have seen that happen.

EDIT: Trophy store VIN plates won't do the trick...

 

Sounds like a cool project, have any pics?

 

Yes sir, I have learned that the hard way... ask how I know? The engine has been changed, we looked today. The frame is also stanped, but I can stamp it on the drivers side as well. I would never swap over to a A frame, not on this. I will however upgrade to an A front axle and rear, basically an A in T clothing.

 

Keep all the original stuff around for later like Swifster said. Ditch the original front brakes, put juice drums all around and it'll stop great. Put a hood over the 2.3, who's gonna know? Let your old man have some fun in an old car.

 

ok, so dumb question. why cant I run the model T wire wheel hubs, with 1" aluminum adapter from 5-4.75 to 5-5.5 with the Model A wheel wire wheel support from speedway? Any idea why or why not

I know... but he is not rich by any means either. I'll have to find him a banjo with an open drive line, or money for conversion, and 2 sets of juice breaks, and hubs. But Ive got the wheels.... sigh...

 

O yes, we had planned on it. Im up for the model A front axle swap and banjo rear end swap... but Im not sure about the wishbones lengths.... mounts ETC...

 

You plan to split the wishbone or keep it intact? Also, you may want some of these catalogs, if only for reference:
http://macsautoparts.com/default.as...d=5950828202&gclid=CMe0weaomaoCFcOs7QodsECrxw

 

do a search here first, there are lots of posts on how to DIY for cheap

 

The dual down draft set ups run very good (we ran the Esslinger set up on my Baja 1000 winning Ranger), BUT don't really look right on a Hot rod. The Side draft DCOE is much more suited with long velocity stacks coming out the side
Just something to think about

 

Factory T wire hubs are worth their weight in gold. if you already have them you could finance part of your project with the cash from selling them. They regularly go, on ebay, for 5 or 600 bucks for a set of 2.

You can buy adapters to run model A wires on T wood hubs. But like the others have said, go with the A front end.

Early Plymouth wire wheels, I have a set of 4 19 inch adjustable spoke, have the same bolt pattern as the T wire hubs and will bolt right on.

 

Great that you want to help out and work with your dad. Beleive me this will mean a lot some day. By the way I see your location,Do you know Ron White?

 

Ron white, graduated wayyyyyy long time ago..LOL... His picture hangs down at the High School..

To answer your question, I guess I could aplit the wishbones, but he is trying to keep it as stock looking as he can, even down to the crank hanging out the front. But I havne't looked under the car to see if I can split them and still have room for the running boards and such. Im gonna go look it now for him, and get a plan together.

 

O, no Im not going to run them on his ride. It'll be the o'l reg 2bbl carb. My dad doesen't care what axle or rear end etc. He just want to take mom out on a Sunday drive. He even wants to switch over to a pickup bed so he can carry stuff from the office. Hell it his, and I think he will enjoy that. . When I told him that the Turtle deck lid is $400 bucks, he about fell over, said he didnt want to spend that kinda of money...LOL... But I do have several friends that have some very nice T beds that will trade for the turtle deck. SHoot its preety nice and still painted.

 

why would anyone wanna hate you for helping your dad drive his t again? i sure the hell dont! congrats on being a great son!

 

model a spring won`t fit a T front x-member.A spring is wider.

 

LOL, I think Im more excoted about watching him show is friends this cool old car. He has been in the guarage getting ready to take pics and pull the turtle deck off, so we can go get his Pickup bed. He dropping it off to his friends body shop Mond. He said he should get it done before he dies......

 

I haven't planned on using the A sspring. .

 

Hey guys, should I box the frame in the font for the 2.0 or 2.3? Its that old spring steel. The thing is only gonna make 60 HP prolly. A completely 2.0 ford? Weight should not be an issue?

 

OMG, someone on the HAMB lives in Fritch? I thought I was remote when I lived in Borger...

 

LOL... I accually live in Rillo now. Just never changed the location. Im finding there is a few of us in borger/fritch /amarillo area. The worst pat is... I had that trans part you were looking for a long time, coulden't get anyone to buy it. I finally let it go for like $75.00.

 

You might be best to go scrounge an entire Model "A" running gear, you know, front and rear axles and wish bones, wheels, springs, etc. There is enough room under the fenders to split the wishbones, been done hundreds of times. The "A" rear has a couple of open drive conversions available for it, and should hold up to a stock 2.3 and auto combo. The "A" rear axle will also be the right width for this deal too. You can use the "T" rear spring on the "A" axle perches with some spacers to take up the difference in spring widths. On the front, the only large hang up will be spring widths as the "T" cross member is made to hold an 1 1/2" spring and the "A" spring is 1 3/4". Later hydraulic brakes will fit the "A" suspension with a couple of inexpensive kits that are widely available through the early Ford suppliers. I would use a little later rear wish bones, as the "A" stuff are a bit light to be split. Master cylinder and mounts could be as simple as Speedways kit on the frame rail. "T"s were super popular back in the resto rod era, especially full fendered. In the late seventies during the second oil crisis, Pinto powered cars were fairly common.

 

Thank you Sir, I believe thats what we have settled on. Ive got a lead on a couple of full rollers minus engine, that we can strip. I'll post some pics to get started on another thread, and link it to this one so you can all follow and make suggestions.

 

The 2.3 complete weighs right at 350 lbs.
They make an easy 100-125 horsepower in basically stock form
The 2.0 European early Pinto motor weighs right at 300 lbs and in 71 they were rated at 100 HP on the nose.

 

JTW, if your going to stamp your own numbers on the frame. Heres a little friendly advice, dont advertise that on the World Wide Web, Sounds like a great project, All the BEST for you and your Dad, TR