Hemibert, I just want you to know, that was one of my favorite threads on the HAMB. Informative AND inspirational. I have an 8 car garage and can't accomplish what you did in your "cave". You have serious skills, but a great at***ude that makes it work. Reminds me, "It's not the ap***ude but the at***ude, that determines your al***ude" (Not meant to be a wheelie pun. Lol) Sent from my SM-T377V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thank you very much for those words. You can do anything you want to do, if you want to do it bad enough. It also helps to have a wife that is 100%. We do it all together, one without the other just don't work. I am very Blessed indeed!
Wow! I did a HAMB search for Super Stock springs and this was one of the first threads that popped up. I've spent the last hour and a half (off and I, I AM at work ) reading it. Holy cow, you accomplished more in 7 months than I have in 25 years! Really impressive, and be sure to give your wife a really big hug. Congrats on your accomplishments, I'm looking forward to seeing this years adventures! jk
Oh, and I forgot to add, I know you've picked one, but another possible name for an A body like that is "Contender", as in "Cuda been a Contender!" Period correctness, you know. lol jk
Other pics here: http://bangshift.com/bangshift1320/southeast-g***ers-action-photos-these-cars-are-spectacular/
Your getting good at highjacking threads Willy, but I'll answer your question anyway. The setting on the timer on the tree is left up to the track. The norm at an NHRA event is 7 seconds. I think top fuel might be 5 but not sure. I'm thinking about taking over that next year and make it an official 7 seconds like it should be at every race. 7 seconds is forever setting there staring at a light bulb. It's very bad sportsmanship to hold someone over 5 seconds after they have both bulbs on. unless they turned them on before you pre stage. Hope this helps, now back to the topic.
The red one is chevy powered! All big block Mopar engines have external oil pumps as stock. There are no internal pump big blocks as stock, no other way. Internally driven, external pump, internal plumbing--no external lines!
Richard said I couldn't have any paint. Other than that, putting it back together this weekend. Shelled 2nd gear at Greer. That's what caused the u-joint to break. Should be ready to test before too long though. Re-thinking a lot of stuff and going to try some different things. Anxious to see yours lettered. Who does your lettering?
All my stuff is big block. Never had any luck with the small stuff and I sold what HEMI parts I had to build the car!
Yes, upgrading to Liberty parts as I can. I have 4, in 2 different 1st gear ratios. Broke my first one in over 40 years this year at Greer.
When it broke at the 1-2 shift, it locked up and snapped the front u-joint and broke the tail housing.
I would look at the ring and pinion and axles too. If it bound in the trans and the momentum of the car broke the driveshaft, everything between the tires and the trans took a pretty hard load. How does the input shaft look? Trans bind. Engine full power. Somethings gonna give. I fixed a powerglide one time for a bracket racer that broke a connecting rod at about 1000' and when he pulled the engine he found the bell housing broken on the trans. I took it apart and the input shaft was twisted and the teeth were broken on the ge****t. I told him to look at the rear and he found the pinion broke as well. If he hadn't checked he would have broke it again the first run after he put in a new engine and trans.
Have 2 drive shaft loops. Someone asked me early in the build, why 2 loops? THIS IS WHY! All pieces stayed in the housing. Didn't even leak grease on track.
I'm down to pulling all that apart now. Don't know if I trust any of what is left in the transmission. I have a complete set of gears spare anyway. Could have been the cluster gear first or the 2nd gear first. Doesn't really matter. Another complete transmission is installed now.
I found some Liberty face plated gears, but I need to get another set done. I have plenty of the good sliders and solid slider hubs, just like to have a fresh set of gears. Need to figure out what first gear ratio the engines like.
All dressed up and nowhere to go. Rained out of testing for the fifth week in a row! View attachment 3494949 View attachment 3494949
Robert, do you know how good your car looks now with the blue on it. Everybody is really stepping up their game for 2017 in the looks department. I hear your stepping up the performance department also. I'll have the scales warmed up for you this year.
ANY TIME you run faster than the cl*** minimum, you have to weigh. You could weigh 1000# til then! Driver in the car as you come off the track, before you get to the pits with no stopping.
It don't matter what you weigh unless you run under. The clocks have to run for qualifying and it is a way to keep the light cars in check. The times are not posted on the scoreboard. The only place to see them is in Quains trailer. Everybody knows what everyone else runs--another check on light cars. Another thing, there isn't an et "limit". You can run as far under as you want, as long as you meet the # per cubic inch weight. The only limiting factor is the tire rule and your imagination.
The Jalopy Journal
