Still trying to get the 1929 Roadster running. I replaced the ballast resistors, but now having a problem with the Lincoln-Zephyr distributor. It's only firing on every other cylinder. Troubleshooting, led me to the distributor. It's only "hot" on one pole. I pulled off some parts, blew air around the inside, and tested parts of the distributor. Replaced both condensers. The news ones tested out good. The points look OK, although I haven't replaced 'em. I have had someone test the coils. They are supposed to be good. Checked continuity between poles and condensers. It's there. At this point I'm ready to buy a new (simpler) distributor, but I'd really like to get this one working. Tips for troubleshooting / fixing? See this video for an example of the problem: https://photos.app.goo.gl/TV6SEkVxoKLLaZCPA "Before" photo of the distributor:
By watching your video, I would check to see if the points were closed on the side that wasn't sparking. It won't spark if they aren't closed and this condition is probably normal with the distributor in a fixed position. With the engine not running you probably have one set of points open and the other set closed. You need to rock the engine to get that set of points closed to see if you get spark. If you don't with them closed, the problem is either the wire to the points or the ground for that set of points. Without being there I have to make some assumptions; if you take the wire from the other coil it will do the same thing on that terminal. If it doesn't the problem is upstream with the wiring for that coil. A good way to check the electrical on the distributor with minimal test equipment is to take a test light and connect it to the battery. I'd tell you which terminal, but I don't know if you are positive or negative ground. So just connect the test light to the non-ground terminal at the battery. Now if you connect the other side of the test light to ground it should light up. With that setup on the test light touch each terminal on the distributor, one should light the test light. Now rock the engine to get the other set of points closed, now the other distributor terminal should light the test light. That will tell you that the distributor is functioning properly and the points are capable of handling some current.
Just to be sure, as a point of troubleshooting isolation or elimination, exactly how are you testing the condensers? They "should" (maybe) work OK if they prove out with an ohmeter, but ignition service is rough duty. Condensers have a few different tests they must be able to pass, an important one is to be checked for "leakage" at their rated voltage, in this case about 500 volts DC. Most people probably don't have a way to do this.
Al, after our conversation yesterday, to get the car on the road I would buy a Stromberg electronic ignition. You can get that one checked out later. Here is the link to purchase one. See you soon ! https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sbc-21a-6
Here is the 3 bolt unit that you need, and it's only 275 miles away ! https://bobdrake.com/collections/st...thead-3-bolt-mount-electronic-distributor-12v
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