Spark Plug Boots/Wires to Headers: How Close?

On 3 or 4 plugs I've got maybe 3/16" between the boot and the header, and maybe 1/2" header-to-plug wire in a couple of spots. Should I just buy the thermal sleeves now, or is this enough clearance??

 

Might be enough if they're good quality wires. I doubt I have any more than that on mine....they still work....

If the boots or wires contact the tubes, they will get burned.

 

They are MSD "StreetFire" wires- so o.k. quality, but not top-'o'-line.
I guess I'll try 'em without boots and see what happens.
Thanks for the response, Squirrel.

 

I'd go with boots.

 

3/16" will be fine. Pretty much as long as they aren't touching, they shouldn't melt.

 

I used to run the Packard 440 stainless steel wires and the cover would burn off if it got near anything hot. The new silicon wires don't seem to care, boots would be good insurance but ugly.

 

Header wrap maybe? Itches like hell, but easy to do.

 

ugh

 

Mine are closer than that, you'll be fine!

That shielding you see is for my starter wires.

 

Whats wrong with header wrap? Vintage, easy, cheap, keeps the exhaust flow movin' faster, makes you itch.....good stuff!

 

Header companies void warranties due to cracking if using a wrap.

 

If you crack them when wrapped those were some cheap *** headers! NEVER had that happen, but then I have always went with ****** so not an issue for me.

 

Read your ****** warranty.

 

Here I saved you some time:

 

Who the hell follows the warranty!? It seems to me that if there were no gains to be had by using the wrap AND IF it was SO harmful to headers, then the wrap companies would have gone out of business LONG ago, and there are still PLENTY in business. Ty to go to a night at ANY drag strip and not see some in use, with no problems. It says in the wrap directions that it will shrink some when it dries and NOT to wrap it too tight. Like anything there are people who will find a way to screw it up anyway. Hell changing your own damn oil on a new car will void the warranty, does that mean that you "would" break something if you did change it, no, only that you "could". Nothing is fool proof.

 

****ing DUH!!! If you spent the $1,200 on ceramic there is no way in hell you would NEED or want to wrap them! Wrap is for people who want those same gains WITHOUT paying for the ceramic ones! GO TOO THE TRACK AND LOOOK!

 

That came from the general instructions for headers that fit a 55-57 Chevy. They are not specifically for ceramic headers. The break in procedure is for ceramic coated headers, the header wrap is for all ****** headers.

Here's the link to "painted" tri-five headers: http://www.holley.com/2102HKR.asp

 

More info from ****** referenced from http://www.holley.com/TechService/FAQ.asp?category=****** / Flowtech / Flowtech:

 

lol, I give up! You should print that out and show it to the guys at the track winning races and NOT cracking headers that are running wrap, maybe you can convert them too. So ya hear that OP. DO NOT run vintage looking and performance enhancing header wrap! Just slap some ugly *** boots (that enhance nothing) on there and call it a day. When one of the fellas gives you hell about your boots, tell them that is how the HAMB rolls! lol

 

You just proved that "you can't fix stupid"!

 

"It also reduces underhood temperatures and has a polished high luster finish. Holding exhaust temperatures inside the header increases the exhaust gas velocity producing more horsepower."

Exactly! When THEY charge the hell out of you to "WRAP" them in ceramic THEN "Holding exhaust temperatures inside the header increases the exhaust gas velocity producing more horsepower." is fine but when easy.cheap wrap does the same thing, well, that's bad M'kay....Like I said I will take a pair of USED but QUALITY thick headers from the swap meet that have been wrapped then a pair of $1,200 ones that can't even hold up thru a damn engine break in! But WHATEVER, like I said, I give up, not worth it, buy boots! (in pink)

 

You have just proved that you NEVER get off of your damn computer long enough to go look under some hoods at the track and see what REAL racers that don't give two ****s about warranties are running! Go see for yourself!!

 

race cars? street cars? traditional cars? sounds like we're talking about a few different things here, and each has it's own peculiar needs.

Wrap has no place on a street car, especially a traditional one. But it would be fine on a typical modern race car.

 

So let me get this right, if I go to a traditional old school car show I won't see any wrap?...I DO, ALL the time! If they are sooo traditional they would still have stock manifolds and not headers to start with. Headers are for performance, so is the wrap. How many "Street cars" run headers? That is why I was talking low buck performance not minivan upgrades. I was thinking it is kinda Old school and traditional. Is Smokey Yunick "traditional" enough? Never saw him running ceramic.

 

Street cars with headers? what a concept...I've had them on my truck since a month after I swapped in the big block in 1979. And they've been on my 55 since I built it in 1996. I've put somewhere around 100k miles on each of them.

 

I didn't see this when I wrote my response above

Don't get to excited about my opinion, I also think that T5 transmissions, alternators, air bags, etc have no place on a traditional car. Headers have been around a long time....a hell of a lot longer than the wrap products.

Smokey is a lousy example to look at when you're building a traditional car

 

I have run 1/8" gap and been ok. HP boots will definitely last longer than stock boots. The street stocker eats plug wires if we don't use shielding. peace

 

And the Big Block and headers WERE NOT for performance? I am confused... to me a "street car" means that if it doesn't get you more safety or more MPG's then you don't run it! PRO STREET which is what us whipper snappers call "street cars" that run big blocks and headers, are all about how much can you get away with on the street. When you spend $8k on a big block to go faster it seems silly not to spend $100 on wrap for better scavenging. If you can manage torque specs to build something worthy of headers then the wrap companies figure that "snug" in there directions should keep people from cracking headers, just like with MOST parts failures it is improper installation! I have respect for your knowledge squirrel but you do not have a "Street car" (truck) you have a pro street. Just 'cause you drive it all the time on "the street" does NOT mean that it is a "Street car". Pink plug wire boots for everyone...YAAAY! The next headers I buy will be getting w****d, just like the last set, and the set before that, NONE of which cracked. I will post pics next set for "Proper installation" of snug wrap.

 

wow, you live in a different world than I do.

btw the term "pro street" means that the rear tires are tucked in the fenders, and they are more than a foot wide. That's what it has meant for the past 30 years

 

Like I said, "us kids" consider it anything that could really hold it's own at the track, yet is a daily driver. So 2 questions and we can end this thread hijacking.
1. Do you admit that (if you can manage to not crack the headers by putting it on there too tight before it dries/shrinks) there are HP gains (for the SAME reason that ceramic coated ones give them) to be had by using header wrap?
2. Do you think that header wrap would provide the additional heat shielding for the OP's plug wires that he had asked about?

Like I said I have respect for you (please keep on helping me with tips on my damn Packard! lol!) but to me wrap IS old school, and anything that you bolt parts on that will dominate 99% of what pulls up next to you on the "street" makes you a "Pro" at the "Street"=Pro Street....I know I know, damn kids. Stuff means different things over the years. Gay used to mean happy! lol