Technical Spinning Wheel Stud on New Installation

I finally got around to installing new wheel studs on an old hub this evening. Got four installed. The fifth one spins in the hole. Does anyone know any good solutions on how to fix this?

The wheel hub can't be replaced, and I can't get a wheel stud with an oversized knurl because nobody makes them. Suggestions?

Thank you ahead of time.

 

Some may disagree, copper or br*** shim stock with some loc***e. Once you ram it home and it sets it'll hold. Final suggestion, wind it backwards so if there's even a slight amount of movement backing off a lug nut it'll wad up a couple thousandths in the right direction and hold tighter. How loose is it?

 

Buy a stud that has an oversized shank and turn it down in a lathe. Or buy a stud that has an undersized shank, and machine a sleeve that fits the oversized hole and press that in.
Somebody makes everything, what sizes are we talking?

 

Spins freely now. Depresses me to even say that...

 

Dorman 610-109.1: 1/2" wheel stud, 0.625" Knurl, 1 5/8" length, 3/4" Shoulder

 

Op Try Dorman master stud spec catalog for over size stud/Knurl ,
If I remember correct over 30 pages
Also look into , different manufactures of race studs

 

Beat you to it. I checked it out before I started this thread. I found something close, but the shoulder is way too big.

 

There are only a couple thousand different stud sizes. I’m sure you can find a larger one. Might require reaming the hole though.

 

If the hub is cast steel (old Ford?) then you could weld it up and redrill the hole to original size. Your machinist might scream that it ruined his ream though.

 

^^^^ I have done weld up & re drill ,
& or dill tap for screw in stud .

 

I love the idea of a screw in stud. I wish I had a good machinist locally. I'd drop it off, tell him to weld it up, and tap it for a screw in stud.

 

Use the Miller "electric glue gun" and spot weld it from behind

 

You can weld head to flange,
Opinion below are not $10 fixes,
ARP or Machine Shop can make a custom press in stud , will be pricey,
Around $200,
Also look into Aviation /Aerospace
Splined bolts ,
There is also commercial Epoxy

 

I found something that's real close. Dorman 610-120. Can't buy just one, so I had to order a box of 10. Hope it works. Otherwise, I've got some real fancy line sinkers for fishing...

 

Knurl it up a bit more with a centre punch and the same in the stud hole and some Loc***e

 

Can you tack weld the stud from the back side ?

 

Is the knurling on the stud defective? It seems strange the hole is that oversized if the otheres are OK

 

If you decide to tack weld a loose stud, make sure you have a wheel snugged up on the studs before welding so it will be straight.

 

That’s what I’ve done, three solid tacks and it works just fine. But I bolted a wheel on and ran a lug nut down just to make sure it wasn’t ****ed a bit or shift.

Edit: looks like Alchemy got it said before I did.

 

I do that sometimes, think we are getting to the stage where we do not type fast enough.

 

I dunno kids there's still a gorilla in the room. How much bigger is the hole and why? And, this just in from the where were ya when I needed ya dept. Sometimes 1 wrong stud finds it's way into the box. Looks the same but it really came from the milkman. I ***umed you already WTF'd it and threw calipers on but I'd feel bad if I didn't say it. And yes, had it happen to me once.

 

My two thumbs aren’t as quick as they used to be!

 

The irony isn't lost on me. I thought the same thing. The only explanation I have is that this car was once a race car. Chicken wire and duct tape come to mind for track repairs back then...

 

Had the same issue with a stud on a rear axle, and I just laid it on my welding table and put some tacks on the shoulder with my mig welder. Then had to knock them down a little with my die grinder until they were only slightly high. Been on the rear axle for about 8 yrs. now and no issues.

 

Pay attention to alchemy's post.

 

Wrap a tuft of steel wool around the stud and hammer-walk a cold chisel every 1/8 or 1/16.
Trim the wool to just where you need it with your wife's favorite scissors. Then 'pull' it in the hub with a lugnut and a big socket for a spacer.

Edit: Disclaimer that my lawyer suggested. If it ever spins when you're trying to remove a tire, it's not my fault.

 

I’m in the weld it on the back side crowd. But I recommend more than “ tacks” ! After snugging it up tight with a wheel on it, if possible, a nice bead will keep it from ever turning. I have done it many times, with success.



Bones

 

I have done this before. Bolt the wheel up so the tacked stud is straight. Someday, in a galaxy far, far away, someone may curse you when they go to exchange that stud. If that bothers you, choose a different route.

 

Just weld that ******* and wait about 10 or 12 years when a new owner posts pictures on the HAMB, *****ing about the caveman that put the car together, and wants advice on what to do.

 

Fit a strip of metal to the next stud and weld it in both ends (with the wheel bolted up) Then if you want to remove, just knock out both studs, with no hub damage done by welding..