Split Bones Or Ladder Bars

I am ordering the suspension for my car today. Going with the split bones up front.

The rear as me a bit confused as to what to do. I am running a 40 spring and two shocks. (that is about all I know so far)

I have a set of 40 ford radius rods (to long and bend into the center)

I was told the 36s are the way to go and split them and then mount to the frame like the fronts.

Or should I go the easy route and run the ladder bar set up?

This car will be driven a lot.

Thanks for the input.

 

35/36 looks good, but costly. i think you can pick them up for around 250 if they know what they got. keep an eye out on craigslist for parts cars and what not might find someone that updated one and has them out back in the iron pile.

 

Get the ladderbars from Socal, or similar.

 

i will be running p&j ladder bars and a 40 ford spring. also, with a panhard bar. i have read where ladder bars are better for the drag strip, but i am going that route anyway.

 

every one has told me to stay away from ladder bars as they bind real bad when the axle rotates side to side

 

Brian, I think you should qualify that statment with the fact that you were asking about extremely short ladder bars (about 24" wasn't it?).

I believe the longer "so cal" ladder bars are proven and would work great. They work because they are mounted inward on either side of the ****** near the center of the car and allow the axle to articulate.

 

ladder bars like pete & jakes or so-cal will be fine and work great if they are mounted angled in

 

If I run the ladder bars do I need to run the panhard bar?

I was looking at the So Cal kit or the one at Thompsons garage.

Thanks,

Tom

 

the need for a panhard bar with a cross spring has been debated on here before , some say yes...some (like me ) say no. both pete & jakes and so-cal do not use them on their ch***is with a rear transverse spring. but, if you want to use one i also say go ahead

 

KIWI KONNECTION in bakersfield has some nice suspension setups for a good price

 

Parallel Ladder Bars will create a bind when the body tries to roll in a corner.



Angling them in, so they are very close together at the front,
allows them to work more like the original wishbone.

 

Thanks Guys Ladder bars it is then.

 

google jhonny joints i am thinkin these will help out with bind they give 30 degres of movement in all directions

 

you could always add the panhard later if you feel the need.

 

nope - brackets are welded to the axle the rods all act as a solid unit and the rear end can't ariticulate. Can you picture the door ****ogy? The hinges represent where the ladder bars attach to the frame. The top and bottom corner of the door are the ends of your axle. The two corners of the door stay in the same plane when you swing the door on the hinges. Just like your rear end will. does that make sense?

 

I have a SoCal ch***is under my 32 and the ladder bars work great. The car really hooks up.

My 26 Model T sedan project is getting ladder bars as well.

However, my next project, a Model A coupe on 32 rails will get 35/36 radius rod/spring hangers. They will work just like the SoCal/Pete & Jakes ladder bars if the pivot ends are close to the front U-joint on the drive shaft. If you mount them to the frame rails they will eventually fail.

Price wise, a set of P&J ladder bars are about the same as a primo set of 35/36 Ford rear radius rods/spring hangers.

The ladder bars will handle more horsepower. If you are going with a lot of inches then they are the way to go. The 35/36 Fords should handle the torque of a strong street flathead or a mild SBC.

 

Thanks for all of the input. I think the ladder bars seem to be the way to go.

 

Split the bones...

 

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