well i "had" some really cool ends for my wishbones...but looks like they're not gona work...i can;t seem to find an 11/16-18 left hand tap...so i was wondering what you guys use...is there anything i can get off of a big truck like a dump truck or something...a tie-rod end from one of those?..i was thinking of maybe going to the yard and just slicing off the ends of a tie rod and then i'll have the peices and the threaded peices to weld into my wishbones...any ideas...i wanted to have this suspension built tomorrow but its not looking too good now...i just ran out of argon too...what a day!
You don't need left hand threads on split 'bones. Speedway has the taps if you'r really desperate. Look here for Moog/TRW numbers and applications. You shouldn't have too much trouble finding a 3/4"-16 rh tap, and a couple Moog/TRW ES-150r, or ES-2847r tie rod ends. They both have the same thread,but I don't know what the difference is otherwise. Maybe someone here can tell us?
yeah i know i donlt "need" left hand...but i got these ends from someone and that just happens to be what they are...so i wanted to make them work..it was an interesting story...he said , hey i have some of those ends we used to use when we split wishbones for race cars...let me look around...he dug around the shed a bit and said..they used to be here in this corner..then out of the dirt there was a small peice sticking up ...they were burried...so we yanked them out ..they had cardboard over the threads still and a ton of grease inside so they cleaned up pretty nice...just seems funny to me that after all these years there they were burried in the dirt in an old chicken coop..so i wanted to use them...but i may try those part numbers...thanks
Since you already have the ends, you could get someone who is talented with a lathe,and owes you a favor, to make some threaded bungs from scratch. Buy some jam nuts too. OR if your real lucky,check with some of the real ******** race car supply houses. They might have threaded bungs available.
hey, good idea...i have a lathe....i think ive been working too much, losing my mind..thanks for the idea...why didnlt i come up with it...geez...felt the same stupid yesterday when i asked someone for a reamer for the taper in my plate for them to mount and realized i can just put the plate in a 4 jaw chuck..set the angle and bore the hole myself...maybe i need more sleep..this working till 11 every night i thought was good but it might be making me dumb
Of course the reamer is an oddball angle too. Internal left hand threads,on a small diameter can be a little tricky,but the price is right. Speedway probably has bungs the right size,if you get stuck. If anyone needs more info on tierod ends,they can look here: Howe tie rod ends.
Speedway DOES have the bungs you require and they're cheap. I bought a pair for my Rocky 33 project with my ends etc. They also have the reamer with the correct angle and they got the 11/16ths left hand tap if you still need one too. You DO have a speedway catalogue, right?
i used the 1"weld in bungs with 3/4 heims threaded in the ends,works great.actually,speedway has a pretty good turnaround,but a lot of guys don't use there stuff,cause they think bill is shady.
You can buy the taps at Speedway motors. Search for Industrial taps. here is the link, Industrial taps Speedway motors
yes,buy the taps (both left and right)....the pair will cost you about $50 from speedway..that's a deal.. if you take care of them they will last you the rest of your life. i have a set from them and they seam to be holding up ok. my first set of taps i bought from MSC over 20 years ago cost me about $125 then... the tapered reamer is part # 91089411 and costs $79.95 plus,once the word gets out you have them you will make all sorts of new friends!
thanks, i really wish i could buy that reamer...its a bit more then i can spend right now...every penny is going into the car at the moment so im gona have to go the cheap route..."bore a tapered hole on the late"...thanks alot for the info though..i will defonitely look into one in the future...msc didnt have a 11/16-18 left hand tap..i was there yesterday and spent an hour with the guy looking through the book...i found a few old heim ends laying around the ba*****t and there was 2 pipes with 3/4 16 thread in them...i think to make bungs for weight jack bolts..either way..im gona check out a fewplaces to see if i can just get 3/4-16 rod ends and use them...i dont wana use heims..they look to new to me...i was thinking of making a reamer too for the taper...use tool steel...cut the angle on the lathe...mill slots up the sides that taper under slightly ..then heat treat it...probably not worth my time though...i think boring the hole would be easier thanks for all help
Im was saving this for techweek but what the heck. Here is Sweden i could not find the right reamer for the Balljoint cone. So i took piece thick steel, me***ured the thickness on a steering arm cone. Drilled two holes same diameter as the smallest part of the cone. Then i cut of the coneshaped piece from a junk balljoint. Welded on a piece of round bar to lenghten it. Then i got my son heat the area around the hole dark red. When red hot i fitted my home made tool in the hole, and hit it with a BIG hammer. Voila instant coneshaped hole. Then i cut away all non hot rod looking steel. Here its the finished product tacked to the frame. This is from the other side, i will weld it properly after mocking up everything, and dissasembly so i can put the frame in a better welding position.
Another lo-buck way to mount your tie-rods end to your frame brackets is to scrounge up some pitman arms from late 60's-early 70's Ford pickups. They use the same taper as the TRW ES-150R tie-rod end so you can cut off the taper end of the pitman arm and weld it to your frame brackets.The tie-rods fit perfectly and if you take your time and do a neat job the bracket looks good and is very strong.
The Jalopy Journal
