splitting bones w/o using bungs

I'm just curious. I had an old model a wishbone that had the ball broken off of it, so I decided to split them for possible use on my 32 roadster project. I cut the forged part about an inch back from where it was welded to the sheet steel tube section with my cutoff saw. Why can I not just drill and tap the forged remainder and possibly weld a nut onto the end of that to give the threads even more length? Looks like it would be plenty strong. I am sure that there must be some reason why not, I just can't figure out why?

 

I have an old set that had this done. They also welded the tie rods on.

 

The Peter Beater T had big nuts welded to the end. I beat the living tar out of that far and never had a problem. Didn't look the best but it worked!

 

It looks like I could drill and tap the forging, weld on the nut , do some grinding and smoothing, add a locknut and it should look pretty good.

 

In my opinion there's just not enough material on those original weld joints for a strong connection. Those ends are going to take a bunch of punishment as your car is going down the road. I prefer there to be plenty of threaded material as well as a lot of welded surface. Besides the weld going around the bung, I also cut a slot down the tube and weld the bung in that way also.

 

I drilled and tapped mine for ford TREs. Hasn't broken yet - thought it hasn't gotten off of the jack stands yet.

I think this is one of those topics where you will find folks who are doing it without issue and others will tell ya your gonna die.

 

I drilled mine and welded the tie rod in.Its plug welded on both sides then welded all around.I doubt it will break.What do you think?

 

If that weld has survived over 80 years of road abuse (the first 10-20 probably on unpaved rutted roads) I doubt drilling and tapping the forged end will result in a failure on the way to the 7-11 or a 70 mph run on the x-way.

Frank

 

Thanks for the input everybody. Patrick, are you going to use a tie rod adjusting sleeve to add the actual tie rod or are you using a female spherical rod end? Why not just tap the hole and insert the male tie rod end into it?

Almost all of the load is push/pull on the bung, so it looks like the threads would be the weak point, not the weld. I think I am going to do it!

 

What is your plan here? It seems to be backwards of normal install. Also you have undercut the weld where the wishbone and threaded part meet, not much but still a weak spot.

 

The forging is hollow, not solid. Take note when you drill into it how deep the drill goes before it breaks through to the inside. You need at least the depth of the diameter of the threads to be strong enough. So, if using a 3/4 inch rod end, you need 3/4 inch of threads in the bung.

Don't weld a tie rod or bolt in the end. The weld will destroy the heat treat of the bolt. The weld may never fail, but the bolt/tie rod end may fail if it became brittle or soft from welding. Bottom line, weld bungs are cheap, and doing it right (time tested/proven in billions of applications) is simple.

 

what was that? I thought you said... ah never mind.

 

What do you mean by back wards of normal install?I do not understand.

Yes i noticed the undercut.I was thinking of going over it again.

I'm new to welding.Is too much heat worse then not enough?or are they both equally wrong?

 

Where's your tie rod end? Isn't it supposed to be this picture?

Model A wishbones might be too short for a '32 ch***is.

 

Its in a box in the garage.The tie rod end threads onto this.

I wish i had a 32....

 

Yep, me too.

 

"Model A wishbones might be too short for a '32 ch***is."

It is fenderless and I was thinking of using a dropped 37-41 axle I have. I thought the shorter A 'bones might help with the wheel scrub problem of the wider perch mounts.

What other problems will the shorter arms cause? I will probably use cross steer on this one. Ideas?

 

For $20 + shiping I'd use the bungs.

 

Here is my Model A wishbone to a 32 frame. You can see where the bung is welded in, the jam nut , and the tie rod end. What are you using as a locating end?
Second question, both bad, too cold= no penetration, too hot =undercut. I like heat but slow down the the weld so the puddle builds up a little.

 

Ok hold up a sec i'll screw it on and take a pic.

 

Sorry for the delay.Here's the pic.

 

Model a bones on a 32'?


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That's about as Traditional as it gets.

 

I just did mine a few weeks ago.. I'll post pictures tomorrow.

 

Don't know if I would trust that style of tie rod on a wishbone locating the front end. There must be someone more knowledgable about the model a tie rod on here..........Bruce Lancaster where are you?????

 

Hmmmm,well this style is holding up on 2 of my buds cars.One of them is his daily.But i'll think about beefing it up somehow.Now i'm not as confident about it.

 

I have seen it done many times.

 

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=568079&showall=1

 

I recently recovered my brothers old A coupe which was a mid '60's or earlier build (he bought it in 1967).
When I looked at the split wishbones I was shocked to see that the tie rod ends were just welded right into the ends of the tubes (not even welded all the way around).
Im not saying that this is right and Im definitely not leaving them this way, but I know for a fact that this car was driven hard for at least 10 years with no signs of failure.