Splitting the 'bones on a 40 Ford???

Looking for the 'correct' backyard approach to splitting the front 'bones on a 40 Ford for engine and exhaust clearance. Is it done like on earlier Fords, with the single bones run to pivot points on the outside of the frame?

(Being that the 40 Ford car frame is wider than say, a 32 Ford frame, I thought that might look a little odd...just wondering if it's the norm???)

My home-grown idea was to split them apart and run them inside of the frame rails to gussets added to the stock x-member...I think it looks better that way...but is that a good idea??

(Don't worry...no fellow motorists or pedestrians will be at risk no matter HOW I do it!)




Whaddaya say???

 

Yup , Good idea indeed Don`t split the bones more than you have too to go clear of the engine/gear. ( Both "Pete&jake" and "Chassis engineering" A.m.o. has split.wishbone kits ( `35-`48 )to do the job the way you described )

 

I split the radius rods ("bones") on my '39 Ford Coupe in order to mount the T5 trans in the car. The adapter kit I bought from Speedway had a new lower center section that had tie rods end mounts welded on it. It kept angle of the rods real close to the stock setup. I've heard (and would have to agree) that if you move the rods outward much, you tend to change the steering geometry plus you would have difficulty assembling the spring hangers at the perch rod bolts. Some guys would heat and bend the rods in the old days to allow the mounts to be attached more outboard than stock. Mounting them outside of the frame rails would not look good on a '40 in my opinion.

 

yes,i agree...only move them out far enuff to clear the transnmision. pete $ jakes , tci , and others make a kit for this...or you can just make it. here is a copy of one from SAC

 

I built that model too, it came out really nice. Too bad I decided to pull it apart and chop the top.

 

Don't ruin the illusion for him.

I can't wait to see it, the 40 should be KILLA!

Jay

 

I SECOND THE SPEEDWAY KIT

I used it on the first go around with my 40.. wasnt too expensive.. you will need to bend the end of the bones a tad for spring perch realignment.. actualy better that the bones are not split too much.. good luck sawzall

 

Do the bones have to be split or can you just use a spacer to move the mounting point a little lower?