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Technical Spot weld remover

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by johnfin, Mar 26, 2026 at 9:02 PM.

  1. johnfin
    Joined: Apr 11, 2008
    Posts: 286

    johnfin
    Member
    from Florida

    What is the best spot weld remover. Brand and type.
     
    Sharpone likes this.
  2. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 9,293

    mgtstumpy
    Member

    I've always used a spot weld drill from local bolt business. Only cut through outside panel and NOT into under laying panel.
    upload_2026-3-27_12-4-50.jpeg
     
  3. Rich796
    Joined: Nov 18, 2023
    Posts: 76

    Rich796

    If you are not saving the panel, 4-1/2" angle grinder.

    Or a good die grinder. With a 3M weld grinding disk, works too.

    If you're saving the panel. The above pictured spot weld type cutter. All **** about the same, regardless of who makes them ; )
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2026 at 9:23 PM
  4. K13
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 9,865

    K13
    Member

    File belts sanders are what everyone uses at shops these days.
     
    Squablow and lilCowboy like this.
  5. A mini belt sander or cut off wheel when I’m not saving the part I’m removing.
    This chisel is awesome for separating panels
    IMG_1629.jpeg
    I prefer this style tool when I’m reusing the part I’m removing
    IMG_1630.jpeg
    and these bits
    IMG_1631.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2026 at 10:51 PM
    saltflats and juan motime like this.
  6. But a good sharp drill bit and that thin chisel I posted is what I do most.
    Just only drill as far as the part being removed
     
    juan motime and John Bowen like this.
  7. swade41
    Joined: Apr 6, 2004
    Posts: 14,632

    swade41
    Member
    from Buffalo,NY

  8. old_chevy
    Joined: May 28, 2012
    Posts: 192

    old_chevy
    Member
    from USA

  9. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 6,350

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj

    LWEL9226 likes this.
  10. HOTRODNORSKIE
    Joined: Nov 29, 2011
    Posts: 690

    HOTRODNORSKIE
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I use this tool you will never go back to air again. 20260327_094512.jpg
     
    Sharpone likes this.
  11. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 18,705

    Squablow
    Member

    I've used those spot weld cutters and I've used the dynafile style belt sanders too and they both work, but usually I just drill a hole straight through with a drill bit. The belt sander works great if you really, really don't want to damage the underside panel, but it takes a while, and the spot weld cutters work OK too but they don't leave a perfectly clean panel underneath, usually they leave a little pilot hole and a little stuck-on disk you have to grind off anyway. Sure, drilling straight through leaves a hole, but it seems like I only take spot welds apart when I intend to weld a new panel to it in the same way anyway, so I just weld the holes back shut to re-create the spot weld when putting it back together.
     
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  12. 69fury
    Joined: Feb 24, 2009
    Posts: 1,769

    69fury
    Member
    from Topeka

    I used the drill bit cutter style from local auto parts store. Century brand. Worked every bit as good as I hoped it would.

    I went through both sheets a few times, but that was me. I think 55-ish spots on this Falcon trunk panel.


    -rick

    1000011011.jpg
     
    John Bowen likes this.
  13. finn
    Joined: Jan 25, 2006
    Posts: 1,548

    finn
    Member

    Blair Rotabroach works better than the HF cutter, which is cheap but short lived. Rotabroach is more expensive and last I checked, still made in Michigan rather than China like the HF.

    Steck weld buster chisel, and a pneumatic belt sander. I think mine is a 3M or Astro.

    3M belts last the longest, but I’ve been using generics from the zJungle.
     
    warbird1, John Bowen and Ziggster like this.
  14. Ziggster
    Joined: Aug 27, 2018
    Posts: 3,503

    Ziggster
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yep. Used the Blair bits. Last a long time. Just got to make sure you have a good centre hole to start, otherwise thd bit will wander all over the place.
    I’ve only ever used generic belts on my mini-pneumatic belt sander and they barely last a few minutes. I can’t imagine grinding away spot welds using one even with 3M belts.
     
    John Bowen likes this.
  15. John Bowen
    Joined: Dec 24, 2024
    Posts: 96

    John Bowen

    I've used the spot weld cutters and some cobalt solid bits made in Germany from ebay and they all work until I get overzealous on the rpm. Slow speed is your friend. Center punch helps. Tried the belt sander, but it eats belts like crazy. Maybe I'm doing it wrong. Went back to the spot weld cutters.
     
  16. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 16,395

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I have been using the same rotabroach cutter for years. Use their lube stick too, cuts like a hot knife through ****er.
     
    LWEL9226 likes this.
  17. downlojoe33
    Joined: Jul 25, 2013
    Posts: 1,006

    downlojoe33
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Don’t waste your money on the HF spot weld cutters unless you want to use it once or twice. Step up to the Blair if you’re going to keep it in your toolbox. I’ve had mine for years and used it a bunch, and it’s still a fine tool.
     
  18. junkman8888
    Joined: Jan 28, 2009
    Posts: 1,088

    junkman8888
    Member

    I use the two-drill method; one electric drill set up with a #30 to make a pilot hole, the other electric drill set up with a drill bit slightly larger that the spot weld. When cutting out the spot weld I "wobble" the electric drill in a big circle so the flutes will be flat to the metal. After most of the spot weld is gone I separate the parts with a masonry chisel.
     
  19. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 3,716

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    If replacing a panel i just grab the plasma cutter..

    2 seconds and the old weld is gone and the new hole for the new spot weld is made....

    ...
     
  20. gene-koning
    Joined: Oct 28, 2016
    Posts: 6,230

    gene-koning
    Member

    Yep, the plasma cutter, low amps, a quick fast cut of a circle around each of the spot welds and separate the two panels. Once the top panel is removed, grind off the spot welds with a thicker cutoff wheel on a die grinder. Everything is clean, and one could reuse the removed panel if he wants, the plug weld would just be a larger diameter.
    Once you get the hang of it, you can have the two panels with a dozen spot welds separated in less time then it takes to cut 4 spot welds with a spot weld cutter. The clean up is quick and easy.
     
    lostone likes this.
  21. patsurf
    Joined: Jan 18, 2018
    Posts: 2,831

    patsurf

    huh!-wow
     
  22. gene-koning
    Joined: Oct 28, 2016
    Posts: 6,230

    gene-koning
    Member

    If you have never experienced how a plasma cutter works, you have no idea what you are missing. It will cut through sheet metal as fast as you can move. Once you get acquainted with how to set it up to do what you want to do, you can peal the sheet metal off layer at a time, as fast as you can move, if the nozzle is good, the metal is clean, and you have a good ground onto the metal you are cutting!
     
    lostone likes this.
  23. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 3,716

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    Yeah a plasma cutter is a fun tool once you get the hang of it.

    I've used it to remove welds on everything from core supports, rocker panels etc. Works really good on multiple layer panel replacement.

    I remember the first time I tried it. My boss was working on one car and I was working on another. He was drilling welds and I stood there for a minute scratching my head and looked at the plasma cutter and thought why not ?

    I grabbed it and started cutting the first weld when he asked me what I was doing, I told him my plan, he smiled and told me to let him know how it goes, in 10 minutes I had the old mustang core support sitting on the floor. He turns around and asks me "seriously you have it out already?" I grinned and said yep and smiled.

    That was late 80's, when ever possible we did everything that way from then on...

    Saved a lot of time and we ended up with the welds in the exact location of the original welds..

    ...
     

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