Been trying to do as much learning as I can before starting painting my HD tank and fenders. Using a sandable primer/filler, Rustoelum cans then a 2K clear can. Primer is on. Couple questions please as Ive been seeing conflicting information. Current Plan is as follows but happy to take advice. Primer Flame outline color and Tape flame outline - Red Base Color - Gloss Black Add water slide image and airbrush gloss black Clear Tape and paint Flames - Flat Black Pull taped flamed outline Clear What grit wet and dry should I be finishing the primer with before applying base color? What grit wet and dry should I be finishing the base color before applying clear? What grit wet and dry should I be finishing the clear before taping up flames and painting those? How many layers of paint can I pull some thin masking tape through? Thinking of applying the color of the outline of the flames then taping their outline prior to the base coat. Hope that all makes sense and thanks.
320 is what I always sand primer with regardless of paint type. As to paint thickness.....do as thin as possible while still covering. Thicker rattle can gets the more likely it is to peel as time goes on regardless of prep
Me not being a trained professional will offer you this for opinion... Warm the product up in warm water. Shake, shake, and shake some more. Shake frequently. Use quality tape, and allow ample curing time. Careful with the 2k, it can soften bottom coatings if applied excessively heavy or over a freshly sprayed but not cured product. Allow ample dry and cure time. It could also be that it is incompatible with the product below, you should do a test sample. And... remember when spraying, it's about the droplet size and how it sits that give you coverage. In close you move faster, further away slower, but still, the product, canister pressure and nozzle will dictate that to some degree by the droplet it creates and the environment in which it's sprayed. But yeah, you're on the right path I'm sure. I will also suggest that while the importance of a smooth surface preparation is the key to a smoother finish, the paint product is what leaves a final finish. You need to understand the product. You need to understand how to avoid paint problems. Your red, will be red. This red in my pic will appear red but darken with more coats, or sooner with a darker base. Your black, will be black and glossy. So will you sand between coats? Before clearing, only if you notice a problem? Were you just going to clear over it all maybe? And while you asked for answers to what should be your procedure, my answer is it depends on the products and the way it's being applied. Spraying different product is a risk due to solvent softening.. If the finish has not fully cured, you can expect it to be problematic. Using a finer paper and wet to avoid friction and pulling off the uncured paint would be expected. Wet gives a finer finish to a polished condition, but it again depends on the product. Scotch brite or paper? Cold space or a warm space? All make a difference. This was airbrushing in my kitchen under a range hood, 70 degrees inside, -28 outside.A no brainer. I was using nail polish. I was air and hand brushing and felt tip marking, and then clear coating. I would take the warmed and well shaken spray can clear outside wearing a N95 slip on mask. A quick blast then when the over spray cleared I'd bring it to dry under the hood. Worked like a charm. While experience is a good teacher, so's something to think about. Good luck with that. And if you screw it up, you can always sand it off and do it again or a different color. I should have checked for gas leaks... live and learn.
Since this is a learning process for you and you have a lot of time into the tanks already, I'll offer a suggestion that may sound like more time and money, but will increase the chances of success. Shoot a test part. It an be any junk laying around, or a trash can for the shop. But try different layers on the test first! If it was a single base, clear or just a color, decal, clear, it is fairly easy to fix during. But the number of layers involved means you should get a feel for spraying, thickness for coverage, sanding and taping. Lots of steps!
Thanks fellas, really appreciate the input. @NoelC thanks so much for all the pics and detailed info. Plan was 3 coats of each product, let it cure then sand. With that approach any suggestions on what grade I should sand with? I see on youtubube some guys using 600 and others 1500. @RodStRace great idea, I have a piece of rear render and will do just that. Apreciate the nozzle info @ekimneirbo
It sounds good in principle, but my range hood direct vents outside and the natural gas furnace in the ba*****t supplied the fresh air in supply source for what air was exhausted, it worked like a make up air unit. It up drafted. And of course, I'm airbrushing, using a low pressure, a small tip, almost zip for over spray. But it was also why I didn't do it in the garage, no way to warm the incoming air when it's - 20 outside and you exhaust warm air out pulling the frigid air in. Most don't go down the rabbit hole of what all is out there, let alone the effort trying some of it. Well...those that do discover task specific products. https://shop.bombingscience.com/can...VRxNkf6Pw7qmtniZGyKo6eaa-V0uA7_pSuGS2eF7mQv0u Still, it takes a degree of practice and a little instructional guidance to pull it off but it adds the element of color and detail to an otherwise dull canvas. Sure to generate some what a way to ruin a car but...it could be a painted design? Did you ever see those pictures where they look through the ice and the water is so clear you can see the bottom? Or the water is so dark you can't but yet smooth and still? Well the water, like paint will lay smooth, the question is, will you see the bottom where it's rough? That's the relationship, or one of the relationships, between sanding and grit. I did mention the paint, it's thickness, the droplet... Well a thinner paint needs a smoother finish where a thicker paint film doesn't, if, it's allowed the time to flow out and blend. Again, I'm not answering but rather helping you to think what's best for you and the products you plan to use. When you sand the surface to promote adhesion or make the surface smooth it will flatten the color, and it's that dulling that may require a finer paper polish to bring out the depth of color back to shiny before clearing it with a 2k finish. Use a fresh can for the final coats if at all possible. They say you learn by fixing your mistakes, maybe my ramble helps you to avoid some? I hope so. You're welcome, and good luck
Spray paint be damned, I want to see more pics of that car they are doing the artwork on with the torch......
A must for serious rattle can painters. https://www.bing.com/shop/productpa...8848404261&overlayId=375094421507&FORM=SHOPIC
One of those times when a guy says, "Why didn't I think of that?". One of those times when a guy says "I know what I'm making today?" One of those time when a guy says "Are you telling me for 40 years I just been shaking cans by hand?" Not me...it's one of those times when I say "hey... it reminds me of a joke where a guy get a computer chip implant to mind meld a bluetooth mechanical smart arm and he goes to the bathroom to pee. Arm, locate and undo my zipper. The arm moves in and down it pulls the zipper. Arm, reach in and gentle remove my ----. And it does, with the touch of an angel. Then he pees and says arm, give it a shake, and it lightly shakes it. He thinks hmm...? That felt pretty good. Looking around he's alone... Arm, give it another shake but a little longer and a bit faster, and it does. Wow he thinks, this is great. Then he thinks, I'm alone, what the heck, time to see what this bad boy can do, Arm, jerk it off. Anyways, mines a variable speed Makita. I'm going to make one.
Panhead Pete, you may come up with a great rattle can paint job, but your project cry’s out for catalyzed automotive paint for one reason. You are painting a gas tank. There are two photos in this thread that represent what modern gasoline will easily do to a rattle can paint job. (Without hardner). Your fenders and side covers will probably never have any trouble if the bike sits indoors most of the time, but automotive paint has UV protection and chemical resistance due to the hardener added to the paint. Rattle can paint will easily rub to a dull finish should you wear leathers or other rough materials. As mentioned, success comes with painting practice parts. An old tool box, metal housing etc. Good luck!
You’ll want to minimize the edge that will form along the taped areas of the flames so there isn’t a ridge there even after the clear. You can carefully sand the edges after tape removal with 800 or 1000 grit, or even a red scotch brite pad (which is about 400 grit) before applying the clear. Watch some YouTube content (especially TAZat***ude) about flames and he’ll mention how to do that. We often think we can just ‘bury it in the clear’, but the ridge can easily be too high for that if it is not sanded down a bit first. SprayMax makes a wonderful 2K clear in a spray can. And as other have mentioned….do some practice pieces first so you’re all set to go on the final work. Have fun with it, John
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