Im gonna start laying some paint on the 57 before it rusts away, and have decided on a silver metalflake roof any of you guys got any tips to make life easier ?
Get good products. Are you going to do heavy flake? Make sure you tip size will be big enough. Talk to lowandslow aka Donnie hes the master when it comes to this stuff. Do a search on flake on here there was alot of talk a while back. Nate
When spraying silver flake i like to use silver basecoat first then put one coat of clear on before you start to put the flake on mix the flake with the clear and spray the first coat of clear without flake in it will help lay down the flake so it dont take so muck clear to burry it in the end . i hope i explained in a way to understand if not let me know ill try to re word im not to good at explaining things and really not good at typing
The paint im planning using metalflake brand paint which is all i can find here in the uk. not sure what primer to use or whether to go back to metal ? I have checked the guns at work and we have all the right tips the tech stuff recommends
Do all your body work, give it good heavy coat of primer. guide coat it then block it with 400. Then get a silver bas to the closet color to then flake that you can find. Spray a good coat of that base. Then mix up some clear and flake and do little by little, dont go all in at once, then just keep on letting tack up and keep spraying till you get the coverage you want. Then spray two, three coats of clear to bury the flake, then wet sand with 1000, 1500. Then spray clear and sand till you get the nice smooth look you want then wet sand 1500 and buff! Hope i explained it good enough. Let donnie see this post and hell tell you how its done! nate
[ QUOTE ] When spraying silver flake i like to use silver basecoat first then put one coat of clear on before you start to put the flake on mix the flake with the clear and spray the first coat of clear without flake in it will help lay down the flake so it dont take so muck clear to burry it in the end . i hope i explained in a way to understand if not let me know ill try to re word im not to good at explaining things and really not good at typing [/ QUOTE ] That makes sense to me and was one of the things that was bothering me
post a pic of what you are starting with, you might be doing to much.if your roof is in good shape wet sand with 600 grit, spray one coat of bonding clear or mixing clear with a little hardener. this will seal the old paint and give you less build up of material. i like to spray one coat of strait silver base with coarse metalic, then break out the big stuff. when you mix the large flake with clear use mixing clear again not finishing clear. this will dry faster and have way less build up. when you have the desired effect, mix your finishing clear and put down three good coats. let it dry overnight, or if you have access to an oven bake it for an hour, let it cool and then wet sand it with a block and some 400 being careful not to go through. then tape it up and spray two more coats of clear, the first one being a thinner tack coat the second turn up the pressure and pump on that glass finish. you are done. this process eliminates almost all buffing, mabe just a few specs of dirt.
[ QUOTE ] what was one of the things that was bothering you? what part [/ QUOTE ] Building up the flake over the base coat
[ QUOTE ] post a pic of what you are starting with, you might be doing to much.if your roof is in good shape wet sand with 600 grit, spray one coat of bonding clear or mixing clear with a little hardener. this will seal the old paint and give you less build up of material. i like to spray one coat of strait silver base with coarse metalic, then break out the big stuff. when you mix the large flake with clear use mixing clear again not finishing clear. this will dry faster and have way less build up. when you have the desired effect, mix your finishing clear and put down three good coats. let it dry overnight, or if you have access to an oven bake it for an hour, let it cool and then wet sand it with a block and some 400 being careful not to go through. then tape it up and spray two more coats of clear, the first one being a thinner tack coat the second turn up the pressure and pump on that glass finish. you are done. this process eliminates almost all buffing, mabe just a few specs of dirt. [/ QUOTE ] The car has about 4 coats of old paint uder the red oxide it now wears as a top coat .All the tech sheets for the paint i wanna use say i must use a cellulose primer 3 coats to avoid bleeding and reaction .Shame as i have a free supply of 2k paint and primer
id wet block whats on your roof already if its not in bad shape this will help to remove any little flaws and then spray it with an epoxy sealer to lock down whatever is there try not to use to much of anything before the flake cause youll be puttin enough material on once the flake starts and then tryin to burry it with clear
you dont need to use anything special, your 2k products will work great.block sand what you have on there with 220 till it is perfect then go over it by hand with 400 wet. spray one coat of catalyzed 2k primer or sealer. then start your paint process. most paint products will work with others the companys want to sell there products so they recomend you use there stuff. if you dont have any catalyzed primer add a capfull of hardener to the silver basecoat or mixing clear and spray a sealer coat. that will stop the bleed through. when it is totally dry lightly scuff with a white or grey scotchbrite, wipe all the residue off with a tack cloth,start the process i described above.
Thanks for all these tips, keep em coming at $48 for 4 ounces of flake i dont wanna be making any mistakes,
The car has about 4 coats of old paint uder the red oxide it now wears as a top coat With that much paint, I suggest removing and start from bare metal. building paint upon paint can set you up for crazing and cracking. Then your car will look like a jigsaw puzzle. Jim
[ QUOTE ] The car has about 4 coats of old paint uder the red oxide it now wears as a top coat With that much paint, I suggest removing and start from bare metal. building paint upon paint can set you up for crazing and cracking. Then your car will look like a jigsaw puzzle. Jim [/ QUOTE ] guess im gonna be having a sanding session , still better to do it once properly
i have unlimited international calling so if you want to call while you are working, or better yet turn on the web cam, pm me for the number and i would be happy to help with any problems.
look at your local kraft store for polyesther or metalflake, it is exactly the same thing and it is only around $4.oo us. check the archives on flake, my bro, slazzen brought this up awhile back and did all the research to prove it is the same stuff.
if you want to restore the car and have a show car finish the i agree, strip it and start fresh with some catalyzed primer. if you just want to look good for a minimal amount of labor and cost then do it the way i explained earlier.
[ QUOTE ] i have unlimited international calling so if you want to call while you are working, or better yet turn on the web cam, pm me for the number and i would be happy to help with any problems. [/ QUOTE ] Thanks i will take you up on that just gotta get some of the modern crap outa the paintshop (i work in a Police garage fixing squad cars) Then its all systems go
[ QUOTE ] The car has about 4 coats of old paint uder the red oxide it now wears as a top coat With that much paint, I suggest removing and start from bare metal. EXACTLY..........strip it down.... its not that much more work.......use paint stripper if you have to .......and i try to use one brand of material if at all possible.....also if its lacquer use lacquer...dont mix urethanes and lacquers etc........what kind of paint is underneath that red oxide ???? do your self a favor take it down to bare metal ......flake jobs are thick enough when done right..dont make the paint thicker than needed .if you want it to last...or you will get the '' jigsaw puzzle effect '' maybe not today maybe not tomorrow but why run the risk?........ building paint upon paint can set you up for crazing and cracking. Then your car WILL look like a ''jigsaw puzzle''...... metalflake brand paint is good paint....dont skimp on the primers etc..... Jim [/ QUOTE ]
Thanks for that Donnie, just been checking out your site you sure know about flake. Bare metal it is then
hey man thanks for the compliment......no offense to the other dude ..but i have learned the hard way on cutting corners.....DONT!......haha......glad you liked the site .......good luck
[ QUOTE ] hey man thanks for the compliment......no offense to the other dude ..but i have learned the hard way on cutting corners.....DONT!......haha......glad you liked the site .......good luck [/ QUOTE ] Learning the hard way kinda sums up my whole hot rodding experience till i started asking loads of questions before starting something
no need to appologize to anyone, this is a discussion forum where everyone can give tips. dosnt mean they are always the best tips, just ones that will get the job done.
i am old school, i dont measure anything. i just put as much as i can while still keeping it a liquid form. i have even sprayed the clear down and then sprinkled the flake by hand. try an expieriment on a piece of scrap steal.
[ QUOTE ] How many onces of 'Flake to how much clear? [/ QUOTE ] The tech stuff i have says 4-5 ounces per quart , that sound about right ?
2-3 teaspoons pr quart for a dark colour,more for light,it says on the house of color flake,if i remember correctly. but thats probably for not so heavy flake-look as you want on a roof...
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