SPRING - IN - FRONT axle set-up?

The original orientation of most early straight axle wishbones has the spring in front of the axle. I think I'm going to answer my own question, but why doesn't anyone keep this set-up?

I assume it's because if you split the wishbones, you then change the angle of the wishbone spring perch, and using a separate spring perch (spring-on-top) makes it much easier to align the spring and wishbones. I was just ponderning this idea since the spring in front lowers the front end significantly in comparison to the spring on top.

I guess no one ever tries to remedy the alignment problem since the spring-in-front also looks a little goofy on a fenderless car.

I was just curious.

On this subject. I recall recetly seeing a tech article SOMEWHERE showing the process of splitting the wishbones and welding in the rear threaded bung. I can't recall if it was online or in a magazine. Anyone know where I might find this? Specifically, it showed a technique of cutting a channel in the bone, setting the bung in place, then welding it all up. Does this sound familiar to anyone?

 

Not sure what article you're referring to, but here's how I did it on my '40.
split bones

It's not hard to realign the spring perches, IMHO.

I think the reason most people change the spring location is to match the design of the car they're working on.

Putting the spring in front without moving the crossmember forward effectively moves the front wheels back and shortens the wheelbase. It's easier to hack the perches off than it is to move the crossmember.

You still have the flatter model A crossmembers, dropped axles, spring behind and such to reduce the altitude.

 

*hands you my two cents*


I got rid of the spring in front of the axle on my 31 coupe with 47 ford suspention for several reasons.

One, it looked really dumb on a fenderless car, and the stock 47 spring was bulky and just looked hokey in general sitting up in front like that.

Two, I couldnt lower the car as much as I wanted to with the spring mounted in front. With the spring perches mounted on the wishbones in front of the axle, I could only go so far... I could only lower it with shackles and by changing the mounting of the spring, with would only leave me with an inch and a half of travel for the suspention, so I decided to ditch it.

Third, I think the whole suicide front looks way cooler than any spring over axle setup. Plus, its going to make the car lower and longer and more like a lake racer.

My bones are split with a channel cut down the side, on the end, then it is reverse tapped with a small clamp just for added saftey. With the suicide front end setup, I lopped off the wishbone mount perches and re-molded the front of the bones. I'm going to make perches that mount on the inside of the wishbone, about four inches back from the front. I'll snap a pic of it and put it up on here.



Hope my two cents helps





jonnycola

 

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I guess no one ever tries to remedy the alignment problem since the spring-in-front also looks a little goofy on a fenderless car.

[/ QUOTE ]

Usually I think it does look goofy, but for some reason this car pulls it off real well.



Neal

 

pics

 

whole (half) wishbone ....(40tudor's looks way nicer than mine.....I should fill and finish it some more)

 

40tudor, thanks for the link. I'm not sure where I saw the other article, but your site shows it just as well.

That roadster was featured in Rodder's Journal. It is impecable. I think the spring set-up works because the front frame horn pan hides some of the view.

So you guys prefer tie-rod ends over heim joints? Iknow the rod ends are the traditional way to do it and look much better (IMO) but is there any reason to worry about the strength? They carry the wieght of the car.

 

Glad the site was helpful - I forgot that was up there until you asked. Coulda made that a tech article - Doh!

The heavier truck-size tie rod ends and non-split bushings are required in a heavy car like the 40, IMO.

Lighter cars like Ts and As can get away with the smaller ones, but I think I'd still want to use the big ones. Just me - plenty of cars have been built with the smaller ones over the years. I think the key is to make sure the bushing isn't sticking out any farther than necessary.