Spring Perch Bolts, What Gives?..............

Nothing apparently! Took my 37 ford axle for my project to work today where we have a 50 ton press. We tried to get the spring perch bolts out but no luck, what's the deal? Tryed penetrant, heat, everything practically and they won't budge, the axle starts to give first! In 15 minutes or so time we did get one of the kingpins out, but even those were making the press strain a little.

 

sometimes the only answer is to burn em out. if your carefull you can save the axle and wishbone. all the magic tricks and k-y in world aint gonna help

 

I did it this way. Built a puller from channel iron and a piece of 3/4" fine thread all thread rod. Pushing on the bolt only swells it and makes it tighter in the hole. After putting a strain on the bolt, heated the axle and then took an air hammer with a center punch in it and used it on the end of the bolt. Moved it some, put more strain on bolt, air hammered, more strain, air hammered until it came out. Didnt hurt the bolts either.

 

Neat idea! Can you post a bigger picture or send me one by email.

 

Sometimes you need to drill them out. A large drill press and/or a mill will help with the process.

-Bigchief.

 

heat, air hammer, and kroil gets the job done nicely. don' t count on salvaging the perch pins if they are that rusted in there..

 

Any chance of getting dimensions of that cool tool so we can make it?

 

I had the same problem with one I was woking on, I tried everthing even a very large press. The only way it came out was with heat via a torch, once I put heat to it I used a punch and a BF hammer and it came right out.


CBB

 

I've tried heat and a BMFH but no luck on that either. Have a drill press at work, so maybe drill the center to relieve pressure, heat, then press or hammer out? We have a mean air hammer as well so I might give that a shot. Thanks for the input guys, keep it coming, there are some good ideas here.

 

Heat perch pin, quench, hammer. Heat perch pin, quench, hammer. I also used to have a problem with these, but once I was tipped off about this method I've had no further problems. The heating loosens the rust a bit and the quenching shrinks the pin a bit.

 

Do you apply the heat just to the two ends of the pin? I need to do my '38 Ford axle's pins and I'm already thinking it's gonna be a mission.

Are you supposed to be able to move the wishbone arms after cutting the pivot ball off or does the pin normally prevent that?

 

When you heat the shit out of the bolt, both ends and then either quench with water or just let it cool, the bolt expands and breaks the rust bond and then you can BFH them out. If they still don't move drill a small pilot hole on one end, doesn't have to be over 1/2 inch deep, then line up your cutting torch with the the hole and you can blaze a hole right thru it, lots of ox pressure, and you usually won't even touch the axle. I have taken bolts out of blocks this way and never even touched the threads.

Rex

 

Yes. I cut through the forging with a torch. Then I trim the bones with a horizontal band saw. I cut next to the weld on the tube side. I usually end up with a couple of forging remnants in the tube that are easy to pry out. And Speedway bungs are a near perfect fit.

 

I did this on the 200ton press at work, the gauge read nearly 80 tons before she came loose with a bang. Why is your axel bending? We place a bolster around the part that's being pressed against the axel, i.e. minimal clearance and don't have any trouble.

 

Wayne,

Your post is from 2007. Is it possible you still have the rig you built to pull the perch bolts out with?

Jim Snyder
Greeneville, TN

 

I've read these stories in the past. Last month at the LA Roadster show swap meet I picked up a pair of 1936 Ford perch bolts, asked the seller what he wanted for them. I just handed him a 20, thanked him and kept walking. Bob

 

Jim,
I do not have the puller any longer. Gave it to a friend who had given me the idea to build it. Simple to build. I used a piece of 3/4-16 fine thread all thread in B7 material (Heat treated 4140) and grade 2H nuts. These are harder than mild steel and the fine thread gives you more strain with less torque. Use neverseize on the threads. I have attached a couple of other pictures I had of it. Never made a drawing.
The uprights are 3" channel notched out to fit over the axle so it won't slide off. The rest is just 1/2" flat bar.
Wayne

 

I've always used a rosebud tip on my fire wrench and a BFH,,usually on the second attempt I am able to extract the spring perch but it's not in the greatest condition. HRP

 

Heat the axle cherry red...the area of the pin bore, not the pin itself....to expand the bore. This creates clearance to allow the bolt to slide out. Pounding/pressing on the pin only expands it and makes it HARDER to get out. This has worked for me.

 

Lots of Gibbs brand from all angles over several days or even weeks and good whacks to the side to unfreeze it then pressing or tapping it out has always worked for me in these types of situations.

 

Sometimes they are stubborn.

 

You got that right! HRP

 

I stuck one of my girlfriends little candles over the pin upside down and heated the axle letting the wax soak in and then smacked mine out wile it was still warm it worked great the other side I torched the other pin all the way out before then was told to try the wax and it worked great next two I took apart I did this with and didn't hurt the pins

 

Wayne,

Thanks for the excellent pictures.

 

Mine came out with PB blaster, heat (carefully) air chisel and pipe wrench.

 

I used PB Blaster, heat, BFH, more heat, built a puller, more heat, and finnally drilled them out. I still have the puller.