I have a '39 Ford standard sedan. I'm planning to order all the side trim. The hood side trim I already have but it needs a little straightening. Anyone know of anyone who will smooth out any dents & re-do it? Thanks in advance, Rod
Did you consider doing it yourself? Does not take much in the way of tools. does take some patience though.
I'd say ask the local restorer types who redoes stainless in the area that is reliable and does decent work. Eastwood sells a trim repair hammer and anvil to work on stainless trim with. http://search.eastwood.com/search?w=stainless trim repair I've got the set but haven't done much with it.
Madison Custom Polishing and Plating in Madison Wisconsin 608-273-1929 I figured if he was good enough to work on serial no. 1 for Willie G, I could trust him with my stuff
I have done stainless trim. Buy a buffer and the wheels and compounds from Eastwood. Get some small pick hammers and dollies, small jewelers files and lots of sand paper and go to town . Patience is foremost. Or pay someone around $ 6 to $10 an inch plus shipping to have it done. I know a lady in Cleveland , Tn. that does a great job on stainless trim.
Dents? Scratches? Both? Step 1, assess the needed repair spots and their severity. Step 2, give the whole part a good polish while it's on the hood side. Sounds crazy, right? Not as crazy as lifetime scars if that wobbly part gets caught in the buffing pad. If your hood sides are already done then make a plywood "fixture" to hold it flat. You can tape it down or bolt it if you have long enough studs to use, or make some long ones out of round head screws. It need not be a maximum effort 1st polish, but this step will tell you what will buff and what needs sanding. Step 3, make a wooden tool, hardwood preferred, that matches the outer shape. It'll have to be smaller by the thickness of the stainless so it fits inside the mldg. The wider the better, and try to make it so it drops in like the studs. Use that tool to shape out any dents, sometimes you can simply push them out, sometimes some gently persuaded with some careful hammering. Make an outter tool too, the longer the better. If a wooden tool won't work from inside (not always possible) then you can get creative with an old chisel with all the sharp edges rounded off. Hammer gently, just enough to get it moved and support it with the outside tool. All of this is easier than it sounds. Step 4, scratches, some will need some smooth file work, some you can sand out with fine paper. I start with 400 wet paper and use some really soapy water as a lubricant. Might surprise you how well that works. If you're good you can use a DA locked in (not orbital) and high speed sand scratches out. A light touch, smooth movements, no "edge digging", lift off before you stop the rotation. Once more, this requires a light touch and a steady hand. You can also advance the grit out to even 1000 if you wish. The finer the sanding the less buffing time needed. Step 5, put the part back on the plywood fixture or hood side and give it the final buff. If you focus on what really shows the most it'll be easier on your brain (!). By that I mean if there's a minor scratch on a lower surface that you need to really look for to find it odds are it'll never be seen by anyone. This is basic, meant to inspire, but please be careful. Knew a guy who literally lost 1/2 of his nose polishing a mldg once. It got caught and whacked him good. Those damn buffers have no conscience, and as I always say, these cars ain't worth a broken fingernail Be careful and have fun, it's a rewarding process.
Don has a guy in his shop, this is all he does. https://eastcoastrestorations.com/shop/shopcontent.asp?type=RestoTrim
I've had great results from "Metal Brite" a shop in Dayton, Ohio. They refurbished some long rear fender pieces for my 49 Buick sedanete build. Stay away from Progressive Plating in Indy.
I just did some stainless trim on my 54 Chev, Ordered a stainless polishing kit from Casewell in Lyons .N Y. worked very nice. I started with 320 on scratches and pitting. and worked my way up 320, 400, 600,1000,1200, 1500. At 1500 it was smooth enough and shiny enough to almost put on the car as is. I then used the green bar from the kit to remove any scratches that the 1500 didn't remove . Went over the piece twice , Then used the white bar and the piece now looks like it was chrome plated. Have patience it took me 3 weeks working 1 1/2 - 2 hrs. a night to do the part.( 1 gravel shield rear 54 210 2 dr. ) Also I just used my electric drill with an arbor I also purchased and a few extra 4 in. wheels. Good Luck, Hope this helps
Hi guys, & thanks for all the info. I think I'll try it with some Eastwood tools to begin with, but I have all the phone numbers in case I chicken out. Thanks again, Rod
Harbor Fright has a nice set of polishing flap wheels and the abrasive sticks. I've used the aluminum and stainless sticks with good success.
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