Hey gang, Just want to get some clarification I'm going to wire a starter*****on correctly. I have seen the various threads on this, but just had a few lingering questions. It's typical GM starter and igniting switch wiring (Red, Brown, Pink, Purple and it's on an Olds 215) and here's my plan: 1. The key in "crank" sends 12V through the purple wire that connects to the starter solenoid post which engages the starter. Release the key, 12V is removed and starter stops. 2. There's a red BAT wire that has two leads on it effectively splitting the BAT wire into two. Why my harness has it I don't know, but I thought I could wire the push*****on switch like this: - that Red BAT with the extra lead I could send to one pole of the start*****on, and on the other pole, run the purple wire. This would provide 12V to the solenoid once that*****on is depressed and it would engage the starter until I release it. The key in "crank" wouldn't do anything since there's no purple wire hooked up to it. The start*****on is a HD starter push*****on and not a cheap low amp/volt*****on. Downfall? I think this would allow me to crank the car even without the ignition switch on since it's basically getting 12V from the split BAT wire all the time provided the Neutral Safety is closed. Am I thinking of the system correctly in this example? Yes, I'd run the purple wire through a Neutral Safety (it's on my T5) before heading to the solenoid. Just wanted to make sure this wiring would work. Thanks guys!
If you are doing this i would wire it via a relay so the start*****on is not permanantly live. Energise the relay via the IGN on the key switch via the neutral safety. That way the neutral safety is not taking starter solenoid current and the circuit is dead with the ign off.
Good idea! So my basic wiring is correct, but you’d add a IGN triggered relay for the power rather than the straight BAT lead. Understood. Thank you!
The way you described in your first post should work fine...I don't see any reason to make it more complicated. But if you like added complication, by all means go for it.
I have a T5 and I have a push*****on. I was advised to use a relay through the neutral safety switch as it will not carry the load for long. I come off the ign switch to the*****on to the relay then then to the starter. My starter only will crank if the trans is in neutral.
No relay needed, the solenoid is the starter relay. Power to the relay? Means the starter*****on still has a "hot" wire to trigger the relay...
Interesting...many cars were built for many years that incorporated a neutral safety switch in the starter wire circuit, and they didn't cause many problems that I recall. But then again, if you're using a non-OEM type neutral safety switch, I can see how you could have trouble. Some folks adapt switches that aren't quite up to the task. Since we don't know what kind of NSS he has, all of our recommendations are not very accurate, eh?
ahh I get it, modern manual transmissions no longer have a neutral safety switch on the transmissions -cost cutting that must be why you press the clutch to start. ?
To pollute the waters even more IF you want to use a Ford style switch (cool little dome with a chrome trim ring) that grounds to the dash, you could also run a relay and have the ground (button) trigger the coil on the relay. OR use the neutral safety switch to trigger the ground side of the relay......both will have low load on the switches.
"The way you described in your first post should work fine...I don't see any reason to make it more complicated." .....Exactly what I wanted to hear. Thank you!
MDL advised me to use the relay. They said the wires coming off the switch are to small to carry the starter load. When I first fired up my car and had to crank on it, those wires did get warm, so I asked about it and was told to use a relay. I understand original form, it was wired different, maybe to the clutch pedal. I am talking about the switch at the front of the main case. It will only let it start in neutral.
If the 12v. positive wire is from a switched fuse circuit, then it's only hot when the key is on. So no need for a relay for a wire that's controlled by the ignition switch for power.
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