Bill Go to Lowes get Sterling solder and the correct flux. It is strong as hell and low melting temp You might think of installing threaded bungs and then using b-nuts sleeves and fittings. Put a vibration loop in the tubling.
For the present I'm just going to use pump gas. I have some silver bearing solder as used in air conditioning work to try. I have sections of fuel injection tubing between the tank and the "T" that ties both outlets together to help with the vibration problem.
Well I work 6 days a week 14hr days nowdays so yep busy. On my one day off I get to enjoy driving my coupe for the day and looking at my projects thinking someday..... Hope all is well down south for ya Dan.-Weeks
Hello All, I'm looking for a distributor for my 1930 coupe, I want to find a Mallory or something similar. Does anyone know if Mallory is still making these, or a good resource for something like this? Thanks-
Anyone care to post a pic of how they have their fuel pump and regulator plumbed? I eventually will be changing to a downdraft. I don't care if it looks stock. I just want to make it look as natural as possible. I'm thinking of mounting on the frame under the p***enger side. Mac's has a carter pump that looks like it will work OK. Open to suggestions though..
Hello all, I'm wondering if anyone can help me find those pdf files with the banger basics listed in one of the opening topics, they were hosted at 1149.ca but they're no longer available. Thanks in advance for your help! Cheers, Eddie
I have a 14 page article called The Fundamentals Modifying the Model A and B Engine. Its doesn't show an author but from reading it I think Charlie Yapp wrote it. You might contact him to find out more at this link. INDEX.HTM
Slow month this month I hope every one is out having fun. I went to a car show today about 130 miles round trip. I got a new top speed out of my little banger 71 mph on GPS I don't wont to thing about the RPMs Friday on my way home from work I picked up some more flanges. I still need to drill and tap the carb flanges
WOW- 71! that would scare the **** out of me in my speedster! I have topped about 60 and that was downhill and really scary!
With a speedster you add 20mph for fun and fear factor. My buddy has a T speedster. It scares the **** out of me
Been 75mph in mine with another Hamber pretty scared sitting next to me. I don't fear it, imagine what it was like to go 115mph back in the 30s-40s on the dry lakebeds. Now that would be scary to me.-Weeks GPS on my girls phone said 66mph when she rode with me. Kept saying slow down slow down, told her I am not even fully up to max speed yet..... Its no worse then riding a motorcycle to me.-Weeks
Looks like you are still doing fine work and your 71 mph shows it! Are you you running your own header and intake? Single carb or duals? Have fun!
F A S T has a very good article by Jim Brierley in third issue for 2010 on building the basic "warmed" over "A" engine. Covers all aspects of a build.
One way to authenticate the author of a S O S S article is that if C Yapp wrote it it will have misspelled words. A member once wrote a letter inquiring why Mr. Yapp didn't hire a fourth grader to proof read his work and he printed the letter! Recently it seems the spelling errors are gone so that method of identification will only be reliable up to a certain issue!
I know this is kind of taboo but has anyone ever run/seen anyone use two solex Kadron carburetors that you see all the time on VWs? I use to run them on my VW but went to webers and thought the single throat Kadrons would be good on a banger.
The way I see it any newer carb is better the the stock model A carb If you have them and it will get more air in the engine run them. Let us know how they work out
I'm thinking about 4 banger bottom end, is it reasonable to build center main bearing cap support like they are using in Flathead V8 or is it overkill? I mean one like Speedway is selling witch is bolted top of the center main cap.
There are a bunch of steel main cap set ups out there with insert bearings I put steel mains in Fiat bangers too
It would be interesting to see what you guys are useing for main caps. I see the Old Crow crew have gone to 5 mains now interesting?
The link is for model"A" caps the photo is of caps for a "B", Both are located with hollow dowels. I also use 1/2"Allen cap screws for main bolts http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2143144980049181497NYTwOf
Yes, i know these ones. Unfortunately, my engine has Align boring already done... That's why i wondering these extra supports.
I've seen mods done to stock caps. They use longer bolts and run a heavy steel strap across the cap from one bolt to the other. Then lock them in place with a second set of nuts. I don't know it they work or not. I don't think it could hurt. .
The problem is caused by the stock un counterweighted crankshaft flexing, bending, whipping, what ever you want to call it, in the center main. Part of the cure for this problem is the application of counterweights. In George Riley's little booklet he advised the use of tighter fitting bolts in the center main caps and the block to stop the initial movement of the main cap. The clearance between the diameter of the bolts and the cap/block will eventually allow the crank to bend , flex, whip, or as some call it cam out the bearing after hard driving. The inherent weakness in the design will cause this same effect in stock engines. You can prolong the agony by checking and removing shims from the center and or all mains periodically. Of course, all of these preventive modifications should be done before the final fitting of the crank. Any mechanical corrections done at this time may affect the fit of the caps. All of this is ***uming you have babbit, You didn't say so now you have to read all of this.
The Jalopy Journal
