so I got the wire kit from rebel...talked with them and thought I had the wiring right to the ****on and three post ign switch...here's what I got...coil wire to coil on ign swtch...batt wire from solenoid batt post to AM post on ign switch...next ign start wire (per rebel's instructions) from "S" terminal on solenoid to start ****on, next wire from start ****on to coil terminal on ign...This is what happened, I connected the bat, had the ign in off position, when turned to on car turned over(i hadn't pushed the start ****on but it got real hot)...I turn the ign to ACC/rad and car turned over...well? is my ign switch shot?
I think you have the ignition switch wired wrong. I'm not sure what the AM post is but most switches have a BAT post for the main hot wire to go to. If you are using a separate push ****on I wouldn't wire it through the switch at all but wire from a hot all the time or hot when key is on pin on the fuse block to the push ****on and to the S pin on the solenoid. The acc should feed the fuse block for the accessories. Some times when a guy tightens up the nuts on the back of an ignition switch he ends up moving the wire connectors so that they come in contact with each other causing current to go where you don't want it to go.
Mr Chevy...I'll check the connections again...could you clarify, "hot when key is on pin on the fuse block to the push ****on" Cause doesn't the ignition switch need to be hot too?
Typically the start push ****on on the early GM cars are wired hot so the starter will run when the ****on is pushed. Turning the ignition switch to on will energize the coil. Turning the key to accessory will not power the coil and the starter will still turn but without ignition.
If its actually wired the way you describe then it sounds to me like the start ****on is bad as in contacts welded together inside. Hence engine turns over anytime the ign switch is turned on.
Um not 100% sure on this but I think those old original Ford start ****ons are actually a path to ground.
Correct, They have a single terminal and ground to the dash. I installed a starter ****on to a aftermarket wiring harness, but had to use a "hot" starter ****on with 2 terminals. Works the same way as the start feature on your typical ignition switch.
If we are talking about a Ford starter ****on and a Chevrolet solenoid you will need a relay. I wanted a genuine Ford starter ****on to operate my Chevy solenoid. I used a horn relay. pressing the Ford horn ****on grounds the horn relay allowing power to flow through and energize the Chevrolet solenoid on the Chevy starter. Yeah it's more to go bad but I really wanted that starter ****on. (I don't like the aftermarket 2 terminal universal-fit-all ****ons) that will fix the problem easily. I don't care for the wiring kits either. I do my own wiring. The problem with the wiring kits and their techs is they don't understand what the few of us really want.
Yes I thought the one terminal ****on might cause an issue...I'll look at the 2 terminal ****ons...the horn relay sounds interesting...
That ****on was getting hot because it was connected to power, which was shorting straight to ground when you pushed the ****on. Read tommy post again. He told you how to use the stock ****on, if it is good. It will just be used to trigger the ground pole on the relay. The relay becomes a remote ****on or switch. If you choose to trigger the starter solenoid S pole, you will need a ****on that gets power from somewhere and p***es it along to the solenoid when pushed. You are calling that a two pole ****on. Power in, push the ****on to get power out. The AM pole on key probably was where wire from ammeter and battery was connected. I just looked at build thread and see your wiring kit came with a new fuse panel. Some of the circuits will probably be hot all the time (as mentioned in above post) and will get power from the starter lug, where you also get your key power. You may want to take another look at the instructions to make sure you are getting this right. Long-term I suggest you put some kind of master fuse or fusible link on the supply wire to the input on the panel.
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