Is there a crossover starter for the 272 Y block? I just can't get the old one back in. If there is no crossover is there a trick I'm missing? Thanks Bruce
Henry designed these starters to engage from the rear of the ring gear and removing and re-installing can be a challenge. You may have to get it up on jackstands and finagle the center link and tie rods so you have enough room to bench press the starter in place. Here's what I did and I don't regret it at all. http://www.autoelec.com/html/y_block_ford_gear_reduction_starter.html I have also heard you can use an FE starter, but I can't confirm.
If I remember correctly, you have to hold the starter in one hand by the front end and start the bendix end in between the tie rod and the frame and it will fit up in the hole by wiggling gently. The rubber seal will work best as a dust collector on the wall. Start one bolt on the side or bottom, then use tape to hold the top bolt in a socket on an extension for the top. It can be done, but may take more patience and muscle than we are used to.
10-4 on that again 21-50! Just called and ordered the autolec starter. Will ship tomorrow. I ain't foolin' with the old one, and besides it's a 6 volt and I need the 12....to be continued. And again: The careless driver isn't driving his car, he's aiming it! -Dan Matthews Thanks guys for all of your help. Bruce
For future reference 6 volt starters work quite well and survive 12 volts, one of the few things that don't have to be changed when converting from 6 to 12 volts.
Shoot! And I was looking for another excuse to get rid on the old one. Didn't know that. Only heard stories of 12 volts burning out the 6. Bruce
Many moons ago was helping a friend with a 40 Willys pickup and we hauled his starter to an off road parts house in Lemon Grove, Ca and asked if there was a 12 volt starter or if it could be rebuilt into one. He reached across the ounter pulled it in front of him and wrote 12V on it. Seeing the puzzled looks on our faces he explained that it would indeed work just fine. Suggested we replace brushes which if I remember right cost us less than a buck in '74. To this day that's all I've done on similar builds.
I've decided that if it's this much h***le to put this one back in, I aint takin' any chances on it going bad. If there is a better alternative...I'm takin' it. Another besides...the gear below the bendix is worn. 12v 6v...not worth it to me. Bruce
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