ok....my truck really struggles to start sometimes (like right now) usually when it sits for awhile.....i know my battery is good...could my starter be shot (its pretty much brand new)...what are some tests i could do to see if i need a new starter....not real educated on motors, etc....so i was hoping you guys could help....Thanks
so when you drive it on a regular basis it starts OK? how long do you have to let it sit before it acts like that?
I often have these probs with my truck, as header heat kills 'em early. Sometimes the starter disengages too early (meaning the starter's cooked). Have you checked the rest of your ignition system, such as checking the coil for spark, checking the #1 spark plug wire for spark, checked the timing? I had the '57 in the shop recently just to get it started. The pros were certain it was the starter; they pulled it, put in the new, same probs, so they began to think the prob was deeper, such as timing gear binding. Basically the motor was not turning over quick enough to fire up. I got them to turn it over without the spark plugs, and after they turkey-basted the spark plug holes with 10/30 weight motor oil, that greased up the cylinders enough to get it to fire up. Turned out the walls had so much gas buildup from my constant tries to start it up, it became a major adhesive to the pistons. I don't know if that's your problem, but greasing up the walls couldn't hurt. Usually WD 40, alone, does the trick, in my case it needed more coaxing. Another question, bradberry: does your starter have the starter relay attached to it? Mine's on an '63 Ford 390, the starter relay is mounted on the firewall, while the starter itself is bolted to the motor. It could be the starter relay needs to be replaced. I hope this helps, pm me if you have any more questions 'bout it.
depends...once I drove to walmart grabbed a can of spray paint came back out and the starter said "you***** again!!"......? I don't know if this is any help but the volt meter drops way down as soon as i hit the starter*****on...i'm guessing that for some reason the starter uses more voltage then is there.....??? like i said when it comes to this troubleshooting stuff i'm stuck....
I'm learning this stuff as I go, too, especially electrical stuff. If the volt meter drops, it could mean the start is either*****ing too much juice, or enough juice isn't being sent to the starter. One thing I've often overlooked is how tight the leads and wires are fastened. If a nut has loosened it's grip on a starter relay post, that could be all it takes to cause the trouble. What motor is it? Is the relay mounted away from the starter, on the firewall, inner fender, etc.?
so Humboldt Cat, your saying i should just take out the spark plugs and spray some wd40 in the cylinder? how much.... That is kinda the problem the start sounds really slow....and then after awhile all i here is "click"
it is a 351w i believe the starter relay is on the firewall....(i didn't set up my engine or do any wiring)....
Just a good 2 shots in each hole should work. I then re-read your original post and thought, well, if it's in regular running order, but the starter acts up after awhile, I don't know if that would help. Worth a try. I'm inclined to think something related to the starter, if not the starter itself, is overheating, or is not getting the proper juice. Does your motor have headers, or give off more heat than the average engine? I don't mean to send you in circles. Part of the prob I have with ignition problems is are there are so many different paths to where the trouble lies, and haven't figured out an orderly way to take those paths, yet. But yeah, at least WD 40 would clear up any gas build up.
Hey, just checked out yer art site- great art, man! So do you still have the '55 F-100, is that the truck givin' problems? What motor? Cool art.
351W, right on (sometimes I miss details in earlier posts/replies, sorry). The "click" sound could be the starter relay, it could be receiving the electric message from the ignition switch, but not sending it any further. You'd mention the starter's relatively new- so is the starter relay? Check the relay and the wiring, maybe something needs to be tightened, either with the relay or the starter.
dave, check around with your friends and see if one has an "amp draw tester",preferably an inductive style,meaning you can hold it in close proximity to the power lead to the starter whilst cranking.it will tell you how many amps the starter is drawing.some chiltons and motor manuals have the data in them for allowable amp draw,i think during hot and cold conditions.it will give you an idea of starter condition,as in worn or broken brushes,bad spot on the armature,etc... as always,check all connections to be clean and secure,to include grounds,(battery to block,block to chassis). could just be a cheapie rebuild. usually if its clicking,the relay is good,but the contacts in them can turn to***** as well. got another you can try on it when the starter says"you*****"again? make sure you disconnect the negative cable before ya' swap it. good luck!
Where did you buy your starter? If it was Kragen or Autozone or one of those places. It is proababally your starter. I have put em on right outta the box and had problems. Find a good mom n pop parts store or a NAPA. Spend a bit more $$. Should solve it. FONZI
When I was trying everything to get the 390 fired up, I replaced the relay. I don't know how badly it needed to be replaced, but it's yours if you want it. It should work out if your relay is mounted seperated from the starter. Lemme know if you'd like it.
i just running stock exaust manifolds.....i got the starter at hedal's parts plus....i'll try tightning everything and see what happens....if that doesn't work i will have to get a new starter and try that i guess....... Humboldt Cat might have to take you up on that relay
[ QUOTE ] the start sounds really slow....and then after awhile all i here is "click" [/ QUOTE ] Our '54 desoto was doing that same thing. When it was rewired to 12 volt someone over-looked the selenoid which was still 6 volt. It was totally fried by the time we took it out. Hope this helps. ~Melissa
Dead Battery or loose ground. Get your battery checked and clean your terminal posts. Turn your lights on when you try to start it. If they dim, its a battery problem.
already got the battery checked...checked out good....but i will clean everything up tonight and see what happens...
put my headlights on and then hit the ignition switch the headlights pretty much turned off....guessing the starter is*****ing up way too much juice...................tightened everything i could think that has anything to do with the starter or battery....but still nothing it looks as though a new starter is what it will take.....(damn f-100 money pit! ......but its fun right )
The starter will draw more amperage when its hot from the engine. Another thing to look at is .. Next time it does it, throw some cool water on it and try it. Also give it a slight tap with a hammer. If your timing is too far advanced you will also have this problem. More than likely its either the battery, or all connections, or starter going bad.I put up with this problem for three years changing batteries starters, and using heat resistant materials to prevent heatsoak of the starter. The continual problem was easily fixed with a slight asjustment of timing....DUH me.
Brad, if you still haven't found the problem; try this. Take a good set of battery booster cables. Hook the one set of the ends to your battery (as if you were getting a boost) and the other ends (only the ground) to another car/truck's battery. While trying to start your car; have someone touch the HOT lead to the host (other vehicle's) battery post. If your car starts; then your battery is either gone (could have a bad cell) or your cables and battery posts need a good cleaning. If there is ANY signs of corrosion at the cable ends (either at the battery OR the starter), replace the cables. While your at it; run a ground cable directly from the ground post of the battery to the engine block, then from the block to the body and/or the frame.
Any success yet? That throwing-cool-water idea sounded, I don't know, I'd never heard of it before. I mean, with a hot block surrounded by leads and wiring... But, first time I've heard that, as well as the hand-on-the-battery post idea. Any luck?
still no luck....i tightened everything i could think of, cleaned the batter terminals....didn't start with a jump from another car...i even bypassed the solenoid and still nothing....so i'm almost certin that it is the starter....but i don't know? ....i think im gonna have to have my uncle come take a look at it see if he can find the problem........unless you guys have anymore ideas....
possibility of a cell in the battery going dead. if you have a voltmeter check the battery voltage while cranking the motor. ifit drops to abiut 6-8 volts it's the battery. jerry
A bad connection might keep the battery from getting a full charge. Did you have your alternator/generator checked? If you have a generator do you do a lot of night driving?
Do you have a good ground from your motor to your chassis? Did you check you battery cable end that bolts to the frame? Just my 2 cents....To
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