Ok I have had many cars with many engines but this one is giving me problems. It is a 427 BBC with a Muncie. It is a 11:1 compression engine and makes an honest 500hp This thing has kicked back and destroyed 3 starters. 2 were the cheapo minis and one a GM standard Autozone. Now it has a rare steel nose HP full size starter. Weighs a ton and is at the proper clearance. Going off memory it was .060 or ? All the wiring is new and updated and it has an external relay to help the solenoid issue. It turns like a loose top and starts 90% of the time half turn. The there are times it is about to kick back again? It is set at 15deg initial and shouldn't be an issue. it is fired with points. Questions, doesn't the GM start set up use a resistance wire in the circuit for point ignitions? Could I have it run resistance at start also? Should I remove this or mod to alleviate? Is there a simple relay that would have say a 1sec delay to allow to crank then kick in ignition?? I know MSD has a starter saver but I am tryin to keep it simple and cheap.
Put a toggle to ignition box so you can spin it then trip the ignition. This is how we do our race cars.
Is that one of those painless wireing kits (the starter relay)? If so, that is one of the most stupid pieces of mismaneged dumbassed engineering i have ever heard of and they advertise that kit like crazy. Best pull that mess off the car and don't even give it to somebody you don't like. The relay energizes the starter relay (you call it a solenoid), the engine fires and tries to push the starter gear back into the starter (take the starter apart, there isn't any mechanism to pull the gear back) you release the 'start' mode on the key and the power is broken to the relay - BUT! in the millisecond that it take to do this the starter is spinning on the flexplate and it becomes a generator that backfeeds the relay and keeps itself engaged! And you know it as 'kicking back' on the starter. Powermaster starter and altenator have a verygood article about this on thier website and in the catalog. If Painless weren't such a greedy bunch of cocksuckers i would send them a copy, but they are just too stoopid to read.
As an update to anyone else having the same issue.. I have new starter gm iron nose Changed drive from ORIELLY'S and the gears were better then the rebuild units. Went from shimming outside to not needing any shims I have relay to get full power to solenoid. I noticed I only had 12.51 volts available at start terminal to activate solenoid. Traced back to battery which had 12.54, not bad for trunk mounted battery as far as loss. Started car with normal hesitation and almost kick back and checked voltage at 13.8-14.2. Shut car off and 2 minutes later at 12.48 but bounced back to 12.54-8??? Charged battery and same thing would not stay above 12.58 volts? Brought to Pep Boys (Bosch Battery) and the ran load test and battery was fine. Still only 12.5. Brought to another store and same, battery is ok??? Bought an Interstate battery at their store and 12.7 volts. Starter now functions perfect. I will assume that it takes more then 12.5 to fully activate solenoid. Other battery was almost new itself. Interstate battery guy told me tha their newer batteries are supposed to stay at 12.7-.8 to be read as full charge vs say 12.68. Explained there is big difference. Just passing on if anybody else is considering 12.55 as enough and are having same issues. Batteries also have same CCA, actually Interstate is 50 lower. Good luck!!
11:1 compression and 15 degrees of initial advance is a tough call for any starter...I would retard the timing a bit and have the advance come in sooner or have more centrifugal/mechanical advance to make up the difference...or put in the toggle switch like was said above...
Really FAT leads from the battery to the starter and to the earth make one hell of a difference, trust me. I had similar problems even with an Optima - I run a 11:1 429 Ford and it use to sound like I was trying to start it with a 6 volt battery (and sometimes when it was hot it wouldn't start at all) But when I fitted the new heavier leads the motor spun over fast and started instantly every time..
The Delco mini stater not the hitachi, what has been said about the wiring above and if your still running points you can add a duel point plate and a switch on one set of points to get a little retard.
Did you have the 'kickback' before you added the relay? Is that why you added it? i am asking this because a half-volt or or even a couple of volts will not have any effect on starter kickback. Voltage engages the starter not disengages.
I had the same problem with my 57 big block Chevy. Just moving it around once the battery started to get low it would kick back.Car never ran long enough to get the battery charged up and it would start the bullshit. I would then charge the battery over night and have no problems for awhile. Yeah...I never drive the car.
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