So i dont want to get too far ahead of my self. This project wont be finished anytime soon. But im mostly looking for advice. I made a deal on a 27 T sedan body and frame. The frame is home made. Straight and solid. The prior owner made a front suspension, tube axle, coil spring. Using this IFS and covering it with fenders is an option but would rather not. Not looking to start a war on the HAMB. Lol. I would prefer solid straight axle open fender but lack funds to buy prefab kit. So im looking for plans, tricks and ideas on how to ***emble a safe, good looking drop axle front suspension on a budget. I live close enough to nostalgia sid to deliver a salvaged axle for him to drop for me so thats one problem solved. Any advice is welcome or point me to an archive post. Thanks in advance! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
More specifically harpin set up. Wheels i have are salvaged 6 lug spokes. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
That IFS pictured is way too big and would be overkill for a T even with fenders! With that frame, stick to a suicide mounted T Bucket style front suspension. Take a look at the Model T thread and some of the T build up projects on the HAMB such as Chadillac's (he nailed the look). Start searching the cl***ifieds, swap meets, HAMB ads and networking or bartering with other rodders for front end parts while you do ch***is and body work. Unless you luck out and find a complete dropped axle front end ***y at a reasonable price, plan on picking up a dropped axle, 37-48 spindles, etc as you find them. Leaf springs and wishbones can usually be sourced on the cheap. Order a kingpin kit and shackles. Scrounge some spring perches, etc. It'll come together $100 or so at a time.
I would consider using an A frame, but that's my personal preference. You can build one of these on a budget, like Hot Rods Ta Hell said, $100 at a time. I know I had as much time acquiring parts on my RPU as I did building it.
I don't see any IFS in the pics, but it's a horrible idea on a T anyway. And those six-lug wheels will be more trouble than the are worth. As already suggested, scour the swaps and cl***ifieds for early Ford front suspension stuff. Any p***enger axle from 28-48, some wishbones of the same year (note that there are different perch heights so find one that fits), some 39-48 brakes and spindles. Lots of steel wheels will bolt onto this setup, or you could go wires with some simple spacers for the inner support ring. Get a pickup truck 9" rear with the 5.5 BC and you can put it all together for cheap.
Search for a thread started by Paul - 27 model T roadster on an A frame. Very cool car he is building. I have a 27 T, mostly stock. I am also building an AV8. Having both so to speak... I would put your model T on a model A frame. Trying to graft a newer front end onto a T frame would be more work than it is worth. There are dropped axles for T's, but still more work than a model A setup. Just my humble opinion.
I really can't add too much to what has been said but I agree that a Model A frame would be the better route,you won't have to re-invent the wheel so to speak! IMHO,and you haven't ask,please don't channel it over the rails and cut the top to ridiculous cartoon proportions. HRP
I would also suggest an A ch***is. I dropped my front axle myself here is a link to that part of my thread. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-32-ch***is-scratch-build-body.596032/page-11 I am building a 27T roadsters David
Thanks for all the info. This will help a lot. I will check out the threads you guys suggested. I live in OK. We are lucky to have some good swap meets (sometimes) I picked up an early 60s f100 9" about a year ago so im glad thats what you suggest cause thats what i planned on using. And i will look into a model A frame. I do plan on giving her a modest haircut but i dont like the look of a mailslot chop either so dont worry. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
So i already have the f100 9" I know lots of rodders feel that the 9" is a must have. For strength and design. But it will need to be narrowed to snug up against the body. But i also know a salvage yard with more than a few ford mavericks. Pros and cons of narrowing the 9" vs bolting on the maverick 8"? And thanks again in advance for everybodys advice Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
would it be the same amount of money to narrow the 9 in. as it would be to buy another diff? I would go with the 9 " you already got. If you look close at the rods from the 50's & 60's most of them are running oldsmobile diffs or '55 chevy rearends that are wider than model T or A bodies. IT was casually "overlooked" in the big scheme of things. I'm running an 8" in mine( 1927 model T coupe w/ 300 I6 & C4) but I would have used a 9" if I had had it.
Thats a really good point chessterd5. Been looking mostly at what builders have been doing lately. Also just came across a post about a guy making up a couple inches using the wheel offset which seems obvious now lol Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
If you are going to channel the body the tires will need to sit "above" the wheelwells, where the body is widest. I think you need to do some mock-up to see exactly what you are going to encounter.
I Hi Krusty. Like your project. I to would start with a frame. Model A frame should be boxed, if your going that root. But by the time you cost in all that, you might as well look at a new frame. Check out wintec fabrication they have the frame that I used, at a reasonable price. I had mine shipped to Canada and it was still cheaper that getting one made here. As my welding skill is in the learning stage. Just my 2 cents.
This may sound simplistic, but you'll find that having a vision of the finished car will make the construction of it much easier. Just my $.02.
Some of this will depend on what engine you are going to run too. The AV8 I am building will have a flathead in it, about 130hp. I am using an A frame. No need to box with that kind of HP. If you are going to run a SBC, good idea to box or go aftermarket frame. I agree with the comment above about having a vision of the finished car. Go to shows and read on here. Look at what others have done, build a list of the money and time to go different routes. That may help you decide. Good luck
There are a few things i know. I will be going with a modern OHV 302/carb set up. As far as the frame. I am leaning more towards going away from the hand made Z'd model T style frame that the body is coming with and going with a stock model A frame as you guys have suggested and building more of a hi boy. Model T front suspensions are harder to come by as many of you have suggested. Been looking at builds and found a few i like. Let me know what you guys think. Came across a thread ***led "hot rod suspension simplified" on hamb showing how to use original wishbone with OHV with some simple fab and a cheap aftermarket replacement i can get off the shelf at Obsolete Auto here in town. So this is where im heading. Keep the advice coming. Its much appreciated! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
If you are going to build a highboy T sedan you might want to consider finding a complete Model A "roller" ch***is, complete with suspension, steering, etc. to slide underneath your body. You could then follow the well-trod A-V8 path by updating the Model A ch***is with later-model Ford components (dropped axle, juice brakes, V8 rear axle, painted steelies and your choice of vintage engine) as has been done a million times before. Lots and lots of info available and can be done with a minimum of tools and experience. Parts will take some scrounging but won't cost much if obtained locally. And cars like this are on the cutting edge of cool these days - at least here on the H.A.M.B.
Ok, here's my $.02 and change. Figure out your grand vision by first figuring out what you want to get out of this build experience. Right now I think you might be in danger of sliding down the overthinking slope. I've done it myself; I'm still not close to done with my build as a result. I'll phrase my opinions with "get it done and get on the road" suggestions first. Frame - The frame you've got will work. It looks like a fairly basic T-Bucket frame made out of 3" or 4" box tube. It is set up for a coil-over rear suspension, but you can run a transverse off the rear crossmember with a little bracketry and a panhard bar. You can lop off those coilover mounts if need be. A suicide spring perch on the front can be made, there are a bunch of "T-Bucket Plans" out there both free and for sale. IF you decide to get a Model A frame, rollers are great, but make sure you get the nicest, straightest, cleanest frame you can get, with legible numbers ideally. Then sell the T-Bucket frame. Rear End - The 9" is a great thing to have, and you have it on hand. But as has been pointed out, it's too wide. Compensating with wheel offset could really limit your options and add up fast on $$$. Get the 8", it's plenty for your 302. Pull one with complete drum brakes and save yourself a lot of time and money. OR go find yourself a banjo rear then start hunting down a set of 40 rear juice brakes for it Front End - You don't need a prefab kit. Front axles are pretty easy to find, at least in my area. I p***ed on a stack of 9 complete Model A front ends recently. Keep an eye on your local CL as well as the HAMB; that's worked out for me. Shipping that kind of stuff can add a lot of unnecessary cost so look close to home for things that won't fit in a flat rate USPS box or weigh more than 70 lbs. Brakes are one of the worst to ship in my experience and they're around if you're patient and diligent in searching. Find a 28 up axle that you like, get a spring, perches, batwings (or fab them), etc., get it dropped. Hairpins can be made too but sometimes there's used sets around.
You're right patmanta about being able to overthink a project right out of commission. My buddy had his 289 rebuilt twice for the price he could have had a long block delivered with a warranty and it still wasn't right. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Look in your inbox too, I PM'd you some resources. In the meantime, get some jack stands and some round things and start mocking up with what you've got! What state are you in?
Im in Oklahoma. The chickasha fall swap meet in October is by far the largest in the state. Obsolete Auto is about 15 minutes from my house along with Parr automotive. I know 2 no crush salvage yards with some good parts. And Nostalgia Sid drop axles is about 30 min away. Ive got good access to parts and some specialty services. Being that its my first ground up build wanted to do as much research and planning possible first so i didnt get halfway in and realize i should have gone a different way. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I appreciate everybodys ideas as i try to figure this out. And i have made my decision on how I'm going to get started. I'm going to sell the frame that is coming with the car and buy a stock model A frame and build a hi boy. When i get it mocked up if the 9"is too wide i will sell it for a maverick 8" or better fitting rear not going to try and narrow the 9". Solid axle front. Going to wait until i get a good deal on a complete front suspension so i dont have to piece it together. I am going to use the modified solid wishbone described in the hamb thread "suspension simplified". Going with a carb 302. Unless i find a deal on a different motor i cant p*** up. Year of the block will determine the transmission. 3, 4 or 5 speed manual. Pictures to come in the next couple weeks as I start digging into this project. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
If you're going Hi-Boy, you might also consider running a banjo rear since it sounds like you'll be able to find plenty nice ones nearby.
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