here's one for your tech books -looking for input here. I am sure I'm not the only one who wants to sart a car which has been sitting for an extended period before deciding wether it needs a new motoer or a swap.Up here in the northern lats , you can get condensation on the cylinder walls every winter which will turn to a rust film or worse over the years, which can act as a lapping compound at best or break rings at worst if move at all, Like to hear how you guys do it , to save the engine w/o a brebuild, lets start with a 30's engine stored outside in car under a closed hood that turns ,but hard and end w a stuck engine that the balancer bounces but cyl don't move , completely rock stuck? s**** it or rebuid it.thats the first,here is what I have done to get the ball rolling question one - 1.remove plugs- pour Marvel Mystery (or WD40) oil in ea. plug hole HAND turn the engine a few rounds back to TDC , replace plugs (to keep night creatures out and evaporation from being to bad) and let it sit over nite repeat the next day and so on til it moves more freely .2 fill ea. cyl thru plug hole with kerosene and let sit 6 mo's,checking every month for levels , then do the above if it moves. I do the first EVERY time I start a sitting engine the first time if tight. Anyone have better or other methods?
I also change the oil before starting it. If the oil pump can be driven without taking the engine apart (like if it's driven off of the distributor) I'll pressurise the system.
yep i get to that after I get it freed up or if its stuck b4 filling it w kero. one thing tho I NEVER spin it w the starter , your looking at fried rings if not broken ones as rust will be heavier at the top ,due to oil running down hill and the top of the cyls will dry first and get tighter as the piston gets to the top often locking up when dry,love them guys who oil em down first and spin it occasionally over the years helps a BUNCH.
The Jalopy Journal
