Well, this is going to be the last update on this thread. My '29 banger is now residing in Kentucky! Yep, I let it go... seeing as I am over 6 foot tall, weigh approx. 245 lbs and turned 70 this past summer, it's just too difficult for me to get in and once I am in, there just isn't any room for my feet! So... I picked up a sweet little '51 Olds 88 that is going to make my life a whole lot more comfortable. I really appreciate those of you that followed my little adventure into "old school" hot rods and all that added their support and ideas. I really hated to see it go but sometimes ya just gotta do what makes the most sense. We'll see ya on down the road... Grumpy
Nothing wrong with making a change. The important thing is you had fun building it. If its time to move on then so be it. Enjoy the next chapter!
sorry for your loss.... i am an A fan... but some of my buddies have gone late model because the wife finds them easier to get in and out of...
I completely understand about getting into and out of those early cars. I cannot safely drive my model T Depot hack or the 1914 Buick because my legs are too long and I am too big around. Having a larger more comfortable car is definitely a plus. Having a bigger car will allow you to enjoy traveling to shows more than in a banger car. I need to build a car that is comfortable at 75 MPH so longer road trips are easier on my wife and I.
Hey 1st Grumpy, I know you sold the A tudor but since you gave me the idea of lowering mine the way you did I thought I would post a picture of the axle/spring mounted on the car. Thanks for all the helpful info. The tie rod and drag link look like they will be close but hopefully it will clear the bones. later Paul And a before picture with the offending "pimple"!! LOL
That look's a lot better, Paul. Post some pictures when you get her sitting on all four's. Glad that I was able to help! Later... Jim
Hi Grumpy, Let me start by saying I’m also in the Natural State, over close to Batesville. A transplant from Mississippi I saw you car on craigslist when it was for sale.. I’m building something similar. I have a 29 Tudor that I bought back first of the summer. The body is decent but the engine was BAD MISREPRESENTED. With that being said I have purchased a touring long block from Antique Engine Rebuilders. With a high compression head, and bigger cam. Also have FSI distributor, a Weber carb and intake and a set of Reds headers. And I just purchased an axel from Okie Joe. I also have a set of 15 in wheels in fire engine red powder coat, just waiting on some tires. I’m gonna go fenderless with the kind highboy look. I’m gonna keep the mechanical brakes, but use a set of Flathead Teds floaters and cast iron drums. Enough about me now comes the questions. Do you remover the length of the front spring? I thought about removing some of the leaves and replacing the lower spring with one with reversed eyes. How do you compress or stretch the spring pack to get it re attached? My front cross member has been damaged and repaired, very poorly, in the past thought about having a friend, in the welding, machine shop business, just build me a new one that was flat. So as to get more drop. Any thoughts on that? Also any words of wisdom on the whole model t rear spring swap? This is getting out of hand, so thanks for ay help. Sorry for the novel.
49 Fordge... I used the stock Model A spring pack but I don't know what the length was, I didn't measure it. I used a reverse eye main leaf from Chassis Engineering and removed #2 and #3 leafs. I compressed the springs with all thread and a couple of large C clamps. I attached one end of the spring pack to the shackle and placed a short piece of 1 by 4 between the axle and spring eye. Using my floor jack, I raised the axle until I could slip the shackle into place. A couple things come to mind concerning a straight cross member, you will most likely have to notch the frame in order to have clearance for the spring. Remember, the cross member is part of the engines front motor mount so provisions for that would have to be included. I wouldn't attempt the rear spring swap without the proper spreader, I know that some people don't use one but that could be very dangerous! The Model T rear spring is narrower than the Model A so you will need to have spacers between the spring eye and shackle, I used flat washers. You need to swap the top leaf's, use the Model A leaf to center the spring pack in the cross member. Read my build thread, there is a lot of discussion in there about the springs. There are a number of very good build threads about dropping the front end and keeping the mechanical brakes both here on the hamb and The Ford Barn, just use the search functions. Speaking of build threads, do you have one? That's about all I can think of off hand, do your research and use the search function. Good luck with your build. If you have any questions, contact me. Later... Grumpy
I'm getting ready to put a 35 axle in my 30 this weekend. Can you tell me which springs you removed as in every other one or? And did you have to put a filler in to make up the difference? Thanks for your help.
I removed the 2nd & 3rd shortest leaf's and placed them under the main leaf to make up the difference.
The Jalopy Journal
