Hey guys, some of you know me and have seen my work. I aquired a 28 model A coupe from a pair of 80 year old brothers. They used to race this car back in the mid 50's. I absolutely got lost in conversation with them, it was so cool. I buy car and bodies, but hardly ever from the guy that has owned if for over 60 years! Gonna post some pics in a few. My question is this, Im using a 51 flatty/4spd, Model A rear open drive conversion... or tq tube.. havent decided yet. A rear split wish bones, same front. Juice brakes rear, but front has a set of very cool lightened pickup rotors and no brakes. Might keep that? When doing the frame should I stick with the original A, sweep it, and Z the rear, or do the 2x4 steel tubing v and swept. I know its personal decision, but is the model A frame strong enough when boxed, swept and Z'd? I want to build only using pre 60 parts... period! But dont want to compromise safety frame wise. Building the frame is not a big deal, I build and have a frame jig. But I have never used a stock A frame for a build. Thanks Fellow Hambers.
I box, zee or sweep them all of the time. Properly boxed, they are plenty strong. I gusset the inside of the zee before boxing. I highly recommend a good k-member. You will want brakes at BOTH ends. 2x4" tubing works too, but it does not have the authentic look. I have built a few using the front 1/3 of an A frame and 2x4" to the rear, so that works too. The Model A banjo rear is not terribly strong. A hot flatty might give it trouble, but that will depend on your right foot. If you have the propensity to drive like a hoon, you might want to upgrade to a later banjo rear, or newer.
With boxing and proper crossmembers a model a frame is more than strong enough. I'm running one under my 27 and it takes anything I can throw at it. Don http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CwVJRrX2vj4&feature=related
What pre-60 four speed are you running? Where do you buy pre-60 2x4 tube? I'd return that coupe to it's glory race days!
I guess it depends on the condition of the A frame you start with, I've boxed more than a few and found them to be no trouble at all after boxing and crossmembers added.
I agree. Rec. tubing frames are for street rods. I build frames from origional rails all the time and they work just fine. For a flatty you can easily box to the K member and run the front 26 3/4" unboxed to have the real look. I've done this on many cars including my own 283 powered roadster, ( http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=395623&highlight=koz ), which is one of my repro frames. My frame rails are 10ga. pickled and oiled steel, folded and have all the stock holes and stock style riveted brackets which makes them very hard to tell from a mint stocker. I use my K member which is boxed from the legs back. Very traditional. If the rails are not total POS go for it. You also might want to check out the frame under this sporty I'm working on, http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=7117318#post7117318 The frame is very much what your talking about. PM me if you need any dimensions or details. I reworked a Henry crossmember for this one with legs from my K member. Good luck, I'll be watching.
OOPs... I meant three speed.. I understand, sfter talking to those guys, I almost fealt bad buying the car from them. I just cant imagine selling the the car you met your wife in, and bowchicawowwow..
You can't use 2x4 tubing and call it traditional. Model A frames are plenty strong enough for just about anything you want to do if done correctly.
I've never used anything but stock, boxed 3/16" plate, Model A frames. They are good and stout if done correctly and will handle almost anything you put in 'em. I like to leave the rear cross member where it is and work with de-arched, reversed eye rear T springs to raise the rear axle, you can then bolt the body down in it's original place on the rear cross member and not have a kicked up cross member sticking up into the trunk/rumble floor area. All personal preference of course. Great find...I'm jealous!!
Traditionally speaking... All the guys that built them back then used the stock A frames anyway... and with a low hp flathead I don't think it's a necessity to box the frame anyway, surely won't hurt, but you know they all ran flatties and A frames back then also!
Have you thought about using large channel, and then boxing it about 3/4" in or so on the inside? I've seen some stock frames boxed a little ways in from the edge to keep a more stock appearing frame "look".