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Technical Steering arm questions/location

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by neverdun, Jan 23, 2023.

  1. Xman
    Joined: Nov 17, 2011
    Posts: 596

    Xman
    Member

    Also, no need for a dropped axle.
     
    neverdun and Tman like this.
  2. junkman8888
    Joined: Jan 28, 2009
    Posts: 1,067

    junkman8888
    Member

    neverdone, sorry it took so long to get back to you. Now for your rear suspension: From what I can see it looks like the upper coilover crossmember is mounted behind the rear axle centerline (lower mount forward, upper mount to the rear), am I correct?, the reason I ask is conventional wisdom dictates you want the lower spring mounts as far as possible apart from each other, (to increase spring base), then the upper mounts are usually placed closer together if you want to soften the ride. Also, I don't see a panhard bar.

    Now for the front axle: What you should do is start from the beginning, first, put spindles on the axle and hubs on the spindles, now mount wheels and tires on the hubs so you aren't tempted to build anything below the the scrub line, next, mount your steering arms and the tie rod, making sure the wheels turn in both directions without interference, after that mount the split bones making sure they don't interfere with the tie rod or the tires at full lock, if they do modify the split bones as needed. After all that is done mount the front spring in whatever space is left over then build the frame, mount the body and install the engine around this complete properly functioning front suspension. In other words, you built the car backwards. Best of luck with your project
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2023
  3. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,401

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You have a giant anti-sway bar there.
     
    Andy, BJR and Xman like this.
  4. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 35,575

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    neverdun likes this.
  5. Mart
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,991

    Mart
    Member

    [​IMG]

    You will note that this type of radius rod allows more clearance under it than the OP.s radius rods.
     
  6. Drop axle chages spindle location. Ty.
     
  7. if you had a stock front axle your set up would work perfect with the tie rod under the wishbones. with the drop axle you have doubled the distance the tie rod needs to go down to clear. The Doane Spencer / and all the Rolling Bones cars with built with this style spring behind setup use a stock axle. I tried to do it on a 32 chassis with this front end set up a few years ago with a drop axle with no success. there was just no good solution that didn't either get the tie rod into the the radiator some at full lock, or drop it so far down that the added leverage created by the longer steering arms actually made the axle deflect at the drop a considerable amount. I gave in and used a stock 32 to 36 front axle and everything worked fine. I know its not what you want to hear, but a stock front axle may be your best choice to solve the problem.
     
    neverdun, Xman and Tman like this.
  8. THANKS EVERYONE. Not my first build but the dropped axle changes things. I will see how it is when the new steering arms get here. I have plenty of room between the engine and the radiator so ovrer the top isn't out of the question yet. Still in the mock-up stage.
     
  9. I changed to a 32 heavy axle with the XL steering arms. That's how it will stay. Tahnks everyone for your replies. Blue oval especially and krylon32. love your builds. Pic's when it goes back together. Making it pretty now.
     
    Just Gary likes this.

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