Hey Guys, does anyone have a steering column that you have used with a 32 steering wheel and column drop, but used a vega style steering box?? My RHD 32 is using a HQ Holden (GM) box but i want to use the original steering wheel and column drop. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Use a stock column, but put a couple collars and a bearing in the bottom end. Might need to have a new shaft made if you need a double D on the end, since the originals were hollow and not enough meat to machine the flats. But cutting a new top end for the 32 wheel is easy since its just a taper w/keyway and not splines.
On my '32 sedan we did similar, it's a '37 column and drop with bearing at the bottom end to support shaft as alchemy noted, to a vega box. Borgeson makes the flex joints with a number of options. In this case we used a smooth bore at one end for the cut off Ford shaft with a splined end at the other. I prefer splined over double D for the clocking options.
I used a 47 ford column in my deuce roadster. I had to cut it down due to a channel job on the body. I also shortened the column shifter and used that as well. I machined two collars on each end to hold bearings that had 3/4 holes and fitted a 3/4 shaft down them and pinned one end and threaded the other end for adjustment and dowelled that end and used a mini van u-joint.
I stock a 32 inch 3/4 shaft that's keyed and tapered on one end and 3/4-36 spline on the other. I've had several builders use it in gennie columns by using the original locking ring for the drop along with a bearing adapter from P&J and a locking collar on the bottom. I used to use them in my repro columns and have a few left over.
I piece of 1 1/2 exhaust tubing or conduit works fine for a 32 as the wheel wants a column with no flare. I use flanged industrial bearings top and bottom. They fit the shaft and column and can't slip in due to the flange. I use a tie rod clamp to hold the bearing up at the bottom. Orientation. I think the flat on the Vega box should be vertical on the wheel side and the key way in the shaft on top. It has been a while so someone else chime in. You can't just adjust the drag link to center the wheel. The box has to be centered and then the wheel is where it is with the shaft.
Just to give you another 1000 words worth, here's what the bearing I used looks like, and probably much like a couple others have mentioned. I'm not flaking for this ad, it's just a good picture of the common piece used, you may be able to source it elsewhere just as easily;https://www.ebay.com/itm/Steering-C...560640?hash=item3d12fcc5c0:g:CCMAAOSwPcVVtUhD
Uncle Bob, that is what I was suggesting. They can be bought an most any hardware store for like $2 ea.
I like a little more meat on the shaft and column tube then a thin Chinese bearing. I think you can grove the shaft for a snap ring for the Chinese bearing but tubing is thin and so is most bearing housing and not designed to that application . I also like to use a oilite bronze bearing solid full proof and low failure rate. I use 1 1/2 solid crs and machine the bushing to fit the tube. I also screw the tube to the bushing in 4 places by taping some 10-32 screws and lock***e them in.
I am currently working on making exactly this. I already do the reproduction 1932 column drops and have original style steering wheels on the way. I am making a column that will be available in polished SS or steel to accept the original wheel, work with the column drop lock mechanism, and with a 3/4-36 splined shaft at the end to work with vega or other steering box applications. I hopefully will have these ready in the next two months so let me know if you are still interested.
I used a locking 40 column and drop with a vega box. I went to my local bearing store and bought a sealed bearing with a 1.5" O.D. and a 3/4" I.D. and bought a locking ring online to hold the bearing in place. I used a smooth u-joint, drilled, pinned and welded it to the shaft after cutting the column to the length I needed.
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