Hi All, I have decided to ditch the factory 1988 Lincoln steering column mess, and go with a Chevy column in the Merc project. After trial fitting a 1971 Chevelle column, I realized a few things about length, splines, double "d" fittings, etc. I ended up buying a junk S-10 tilt column and tried it out to see what I am working with. The column itelf slides right onto the Lincoln steering shaft coming out of the steering box. YEAH! (It's a double "d" male to double "d" female). The length is about right. I would have to fab up some under dash brackets to make it work, but that is the least of my worries. My question: How important is a rag joint? With this setup, there wouldn't be one. I realize the rag joint helps to dampen shock and vibrations being transmitted up from the suspension to the steering box, to the steering shaft, and that they usually incorperate a failsafe setup should the rubber "rag" joint fail; (I've replaced them before), but with the setup I am thinking about, space limitations dictate NO rag joint. A bolt and possibly a weld bead would permanently secure the steering shaft of the S-10 to the steering shaft of the Lincoln. Any attempt to add a rag joint would neccessitate either shortening the stock Lincoln steering shaft (engine side) or finding a shorter (say 29") steering column...which wouldn't be a problem...except for the price tag... I'm trying to go with a Chevy column for ease of aftermarket wiring use (horn, T/S, neutral safety switch...) My steering column plans call for a column shift, keyed, tilt coulumn. I would love to have a non-keyed column, with the shifter, but that seems almost impossible within my limited budget. Also, S-10 type columns use a weird "finger" style way of attaching the wheel to the column itself. These "fingers" are mounted to the steering coulumn via a riveted plate, NOT secured by the typical central big nut and splines. I plan to use a 60's or '70's style GM wheel. HELP!
good question, not knowing any better I would think going without the rag joint would be OK none of those Borgeson setups use them and what about all the older stock setups where the collumn is attached to the box? Paul
40,000 miles on the roadster and no vibration problems with the Vega box and Borgeson U-joints. No rag joint or dampened U-joint installed. Like 60's style says, the old cars didn't have them and it didn't seem to be a problem. I'm guessing the rag joint may be there to take care of potential vibrations that may make the sheet metal, or ignition/starter switch on modern steering columns 'sing.' Don't sweat it.
In my humble opinion, and with some research, I am given to believe that the rag joint is primarily for crash protection. In a severe crash, one in which the frame is crushed, the rag joint will split, allowing the forces to dissipate rather than spearing your beautiful mug with a steering column. As a by-product, the joint will absorb some vibrations, but I'm betting not much, as I think there's not much to absorb. So, to answer your query, YES, you can run without a rag joint, but it is a trifler safer to have one. BTW, a single u-joint serves almost the same purpose, as the joint will fold, dissipating the crash forces similarly. Cosmo
Thanks, guys, for the input. I'm cutting Borgenson completely out of the picture (much to their dismay), but with this setup, I don't need them. That's the beauty of it. Chevy and Lincoln, mating in (almost) perfect harmony. It's weird when it happens, but something that should be cherished, nontheless...if only I could find a non-keyed, non column shift S-10 or Blazer....
There is a single u-joint already in the picture, that I don't have to mess with...for those who need to know... Thanks! MERCMAN1951
I'll not worry about the rag joint, and I appreciate the input and pictures that were sent my way, BUT: as I also mentioned above: S-10 type columns use a weird "finger" style way of attaching the wheel to the column itself. There are about 8 of these tabs of metal that extend up from the column to mount the steering wheel to. Weird. These "fingers" are mounted to the steering coulumn via a riveted plate, & NOT secured by the typical central big nut and splines. I plan to use a 60's or '70's style GM wheel. Anyone out there worked around this obstacle? HELP!
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