We just got a nice 53 Ford F100 that has an unknown aftermarket tilt steering column that sits too high and has a noisy bearing in the upper column. Without the steering wheel or hub adapter the column measures 29 inches from the floor to the top of the column. Not sure what column will be going in place of what is there now, Ididit or Flaming River. I’m more concerned with length at the moment. Those that have changed to a new column, what did you use for length….28 or 30 inches?? My thanks…
A couple things will make all the difference. Are you using the same wheel and adapter? How much shorter do you need to be comfortable? I’d buy a column based on your solid data. Depending on someone else’s measurements is a fool’s errand. They may be taller/shorter than you. They may have a different seat than you. They may have a different wheel or box or U joint than you.
What do you have for a steering box? In theory the column also extends below the floor. Is there a way to slide the column down some? Maybe shorten the double D some if you have that? In my A I was able to do that to set the distance from the dash and get some room.
It has a Toyota steering box. If the column didn’t have a bearing problem at the top I would shorten the double D shaft and drop the column down a couple of inches closer to the dash.
Disconnect the double D. Move this column around until you are happy with the position. You may even want to play with the column drop. Once you feel you have the position nailed, then measure to determine what column length you need.
Are you happy with the wheel and column as it is? Because that’s the operative measurement. You subtract the wheel difference. I’m guessing that’s an aftermarket, no problem with that. But I’ve seen (and read more) about offshore column with plastic parts. A buddy had one fail backing out the the garage the first time. It doesn’t look that old, a bad bearing makes me suspicious. But try to ID it.
Lowering the column only works if it wont create a bind at the steering joint. And lowering the column will require the steering shaft to be shortened also. Might have to lower it, and also install a taller drop at the dash mount to maintain the same steering joint angle. I'd install a new bearing before I'd spend the money for a whole new column, especially since it's wired for your truck, and would be easy to pull for a rebuild.
Thanks for the pics. A picture is worth a thousand words. So you want to move the wheel rim down a few inches for a better driver fit. Current wheel is fairly flat, so just replacing it is not going to do it. Current column is unknown and needs servicing. You still want tilt feature? Still want the same column switches (horn, turn)? How are they wired? Will the tilt being lower hit the top of the dash? Will you retain the current wheel? All of these affect column mods or replacement. It sure looks aftermarket, based on the GM non shifter, non flasher, non key style. Many of those do allow shortening fairly easy. Depending on your answers, the simplest might be removing the current column, repairing it and shortening it. There are others offering them, too. Take measurements of the current column, figure out how much less length you want and if you or someone close isn't able to shorten it, use that to get a new one. Speedway shows their own brand under 400 and Ididit for around 800. Use those numbers to compare to repair and shorten pricing.
As the others said if you have a shaft you can shorten do that. The upper bearing in the column is an easy fix most times. Nice truck!
Just an FYI thing. I have a friend who has a Toyota box in his 1956 F100. He had it installed so he could get power steering to make the truck easier to drive. He is older like a lot of us. He says the truck wanders all over the place and he is never comfortable or sure when driving it now. Wanted me to install that unmentionable Mustang front end in it for him. Told him no as I don't have a place to do that type of work anymore. Shame as it really is a nice F100.
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