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COE steering for COE - '41 Ford in particular

Discussion in 'Off Topic Hot Rods & Customs' started by gkent, Jul 9, 2012.

  1. gkent
    Joined: Nov 21, 2011
    Posts: 108

    gkent
    Member

    Planning to put a 41 Ford COE on some late model ch***is but the steering has me baffled. I'm leaning towards a Dakota ch***is for two reasons ... 1) because it has front steer rack and pinion and looks like the best solution and 2) because the front track is close to what the stock COE was - meaning the wheels will fit in the fenders nicely even with some offset.

    Also, since I want the engine behind the cab with a decent length driveshaft I need something with a fairly long wheelbase and the Dak looks like it could easily be lengthened.

    Any thoughts or suggestions ???
     
  2. iwanaflattie
    Joined: May 14, 2011
    Posts: 4,187

    iwanaflattie
    Member

    Before I settled on my donor frame.
    I was told that a Dakota frame would be a perfect donor for the steering and the front track.
    I used an 82 chevy c20(3/4 ton) ch***is with the steering box in stock position and I used some c20 and some astro van steering component.
    I hope that helps...
    The steering pics are on my build.If you need more info let me know.
    I hope that helps a little.
    The people that know more will chime shortly.
    Seth
     
  3. I used a C20 Ch***is under my 41 Ford COE but used a Rack & Pinion out of a P76 which was a large family car over here in Oz, it worked out fine.
    The big thing you need to look out for if you decide to go for a Chevy Ch***is is to make sure that you draw an imaginary line between the upper and lower inner control arm pivots, you then have to make sure that Rack & Pinion Tie Rod Ball intersects that imaginary line and be able to mount the tie rod ends on the same plane as the control arm so they travel through the same arc in unison otherwise you will end up with bump steer and you don't want that.
    So if the Dak R & P is wider then the inner control arm pivots then don't use it.
    I have no idea what a Dakota Ch***is or Front end looks like as we don't have them over here.

    Hope that helps

    Seeya
    Bill
     
  4. gkent
    Joined: Nov 21, 2011
    Posts: 108

    gkent
    Member

    Thanks for the input guys. Honestly, I no longer have the time or inclination to go hunting through wreckers to see what "might fit". Besides, up here in Canada most of the lower end stuff is rusty or corroded, full of crud and half buried in the dirt. As lazy as it sounds, I'd rather hear from a few experienced builders and then look at those options.

    So if you're reading this, chime in with what "you" did.
     
  5. _QUICKTRIP
    Joined: Feb 22, 2010
    Posts: 11

    _QUICKTRIP
    Member

    I'm basically building the same truck,like iwanaflattie,I went with a mid 80's Chevy truck frame.
    I went with the 1/2 ton so i would have an easier time finding wheel's & I wanted a smoother ride.
    The cab mount's on your COE will almost match perfetly with the chevy truck frame,
    with very little fab work to be exact.
    You'll have to trim off the front frame horn's a little & fab a mount for your front cab mount's, easy fab work.
    The steering box you will need will come from any chevy Van,from the mid 70's or mid 80's back,
    while your pulling the box get the rest of the linkage so you'll have what you need to get your steering hooked up.
    This info is if your building a pick up truck style COE.
    If your going to build a car hauler I'd get a Chevrolet motor home ch***is,
    they are also the best fit I've found,I recently picked one up,
    I was going to put Big Red on it but decided I wanted a daily driver & put my 49 Chevy COE on it instead.
    Hope this info helps.
    BCNYA....
     
  6. gkent
    Joined: Nov 21, 2011
    Posts: 108

    gkent
    Member

    Up here anything from the mid '80's will be rotted into the ground.

    There have been no negative comments about the Dakota and everything I've read indicates it would be a strong, good riding ch***is. I didn't mention it but I have a line on a complete running unit - less cab and box for $300.. Basically All I'd have to do is lengthen it and move the motor behind the cab. The computer and everything else is there!
     

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