Hey guys, so I've been tracing a vibration I get in the steering, it's been quite the adventure. I'll share you all the details but I have new bushings, ball joints, tie rods,. Etc. I found my idler arm had lots of play in it so I replaced the arm and a new set of bushings. Pretty happy with my self I was about to do the 54 off the blocks and decided to check again for any play. Hooray I found some. This time in the center link or drag link. I rebuilt the centerlink with a ball and spring kit from Dennis Carpenter. My problem is .. I get a wiggle at the number 1. I popped the cotter pin at number 2 and adjusted it like the manual said to do, I still get movement. The nut at number 3 is properly torqued but doesn't change the play in getting. It wiggle a good 3/16 or so. Any thing in missing? User error? Thanks guys
I think mine goes by # of turns and I had to exceed that to get the excess play out of it. Make sure it is well greased.
Thanks for the replies! The zircs are fully greased. I cranked number 2 until I couldn't any more and backed it off only a quarter turn. I left it fully tight and it's still Wiggles.
My guess is that the new springs are not the same as the old ones. Thinking back, I would just use the old one again.
Thanks bobss!396! It may be possible, I used everything in the Dennis Carpenter kit but it may be off a little. I'm hoping I saved the old stuff somewhere to check. Thanks 40cpe! The kit came with a new stud but it might not be the proper size. Like everything for our cars, modifications may be needed lol
So I found the old drag link posts and dipped them is some pasta cleaner. I removed the Dennis Carpenter ball stud and took some measurements. The top is the DC kit the bottom is the original 71 year old parts. Notice the ball stud is completely round in the original but the DC is flat. Maybe to allow more grease in there? The springs measure the same size but the original looks more stout. I measured the cups too and the original is just a bit wider. This is the DC part. This is the original. Three ball studs also have a little difference in size from the end of the shaft to the edge of the ball. Original DC part So longer sorry short, I reinstalled the original cleaned up parts, regressed and r torqued everything. I may be crazy but it looks like a lot less play. Hopefully tomorrow I can take a test drive and see how if feels
I did measure the new ball stud, same as my old one. If you have a weight watchers scale scale and a drill press, or rig something else up, you could compare springs at something like a 1/4" travel. I have to adjust mine when I wake the car up. The Ford manual recommends a front end lube every 1000 miles
Once again a clear indication of how even 70 year old used parts are better than the reproduction junk. That's why NOS or NORS is always better!
That's funny Alan! I saw your posts on nos vs reman. I've been a fan of aftermarket but for our cars they're not making them better just trying to make them cheaper The new stud measured the same as the old from end to end but the shaft was a different size. Not sure what difference it'll make in the end but we'll find out a little later today. To your point Alan The idler bracket I got from DC feels a little more stout but the threaded part for the bushing is smaller. When I installed it the bushing boot was all loose. So I reinstalled the 70 year old part lol
Yeah, I keep seeing those videos of the guys in India (?) making ball joints and tie rod ends out of old s**** they found, Bare foot, in the dirt, with some very questionable equipment. No sign of any quality inspection anywhere and no indication of metal quality testing or tempering. Buyer beware!
So I'm happy to report things are feeling pretty good! I only drove it for a 10 mile round trip and only got up to about 55 but I like what I feel. Thanks guys for your support!
This is how places like India keep the workforce in their place, good old fashioned stoop-labor. Someone quits, gets hurt, there are 100 in line waiting to take their place. Piece-work is prevalent. The more you produce, the more you make. So you lose a pinky here and there. My tie rod set was from India. When I open any box of parts, I line everything up and look the parts over. There were 3 iterations of castle nuts, 2 of cotter pins. All of that I chucked, used my old castle nuts. I did have to place a washer under 1 nut, something was off with one stud height
It is very sad to pay good money for this reproduction junk only to have it fit and function worse than the 70 year old parts. There are plenty of USA made NOS and NORS parts out there if you do some searching. Ebay is loaded with the stuff. For fun I just searched Ebay for NOS or NORS tie rods for 1954 Ford and there were lots of USA made tie rod ends offered. No need to buy this reproduction junk!